Essential (and other) TK 2000 mods.

[Ga Mtn Man]

Finished up a couple of "must have" mods to the TK 2000 yesterday.  Also took the time this afternoon to adjust the saw head height so that all-the-way-down is precisely 1" from the bunks to the bottom of a down tooth.  Now to set "Home" all I have to do is drop the head all the way down and press the "SET HOME" button.
EDIT 08/14/13:  As it turns out it isn't a good idea to do the above.  The saw head slows down for the last 1/8" or so of down travel at the very bottom, which could adversely effect the error correction function in the setworks.



 
Home-made mounting plate for linear actuator bolted to the underside of the throttle linkage plate.  Note notch in flange to allow clearance for engine shroud.

 

 
2" stroke linear actuator modified to 1" stroke.  I actually shortened the LA by 1" which was a PITA.  An LA with adjustable limit switches wouldn't require any modification.

 

 
LA mounted on plate.
 

 
Connection to throttle linkage

 

      
Whole assembly mounted on engine.  Works very well.
EDIT (11/12/12):  You should put thread lock on all the screws of the LA.  I learned this the hard way.


 
DPDT non-momentary throttle switch.  Mounted it here so my hands wouldn't confuse it with another switch. . 



 
A Larry "horn-ectomy".



  
Allows the saw carriage to clear  the loader arms so they can be left up to hold slabs for edging.



 
And this one's my own idea.  A nylon bolt on both sides of the vertical roller guide strut thingy.  OK, it's not exactly an essential mod but metal rubbing on metal just rubs me the wrong way. :D
 

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

Nice Pics Paul. Sounds and looks like your learning your way around your new mill.

It's a lot of fun isn't it?

Keep the pics coming! Take care.

[WDH]

No pic of the oak  ???    :D :D.

[Ga Mtn Man]

Rain started threatening so I had to cover up the mill in a hurry.  Forgot to take pics of my stack of oak.  I was hoping no one would notice.  Should have known better.  :-\

[WDH]

There are a bunch of mill guys on here and a few of us WOOD guys  :D.

[Ga Mtn Man]

I would like to be both but I suspect becoming a wood guy will take much longer than becoming a mill guy.  One step at a time... I've already learned SO much from all you guys .

[Larry]

I like your linear actuator for throttle control a lot better over the one I came up with.  Where did you get it?

[Magicman]

Don't worry, you can't always take pictures.  I was sawing ERC yesterday which included a huge pile of "split rails" for fencing.  There is no time for pictures when you are sawing "hourly rate".  The customer might not like camera time.

[vfauto]

Here are some pics of my throttle modification.Also added a lubrication valve that activates with blade clutch.

  

  

  

  

  

  

 

[Ga Mtn Man]

Here are some pics of my throttle modification.Also added a lubrication valve that activates with blade clutch.

Looks very familiar:


 

[Ga Mtn Man]

When I was trying out different mills, one of the features that I most liked on the WM mills (and Larry's TK2000) was the well designed two-plane clamp and it's ability to gently flip squared up cants.  So...



 
Went from 5.25" height to 11.75"


 


 
New extended mounting bracket and 12" stroke cylinder


 
While I had it out, I made some bronze-tipped set screws to take up the slop in clamp arm fit.  Works very well.

I'm done modding the mill (for now ;D).  Thanks to Larry for all your help.  My log arch should be finished by next weekend and I'll be able to start pulling some really nice logs up to the mill.

[Larry]

Wow, my clamp only goes up 11.5" :(  First guy ain't got a chance round this place.

Looks like a very professional mod Paul.  I think you will really like what the extra height will do for ya.

[Ga Mtn Man]

Thanks, Larry.

In the full down position mine sits only about 3/16" below the bunks.  I don't know if that will cause me any problems but I do have about 3/8" worth of threads left I can screw into if I have to shorten it.

[Ga Mtn Man]

I finally got around to doing these "non-essential" but very convenient mods to my TK 2000.



 
Remote key switch and choke control located on operator console.  Having the key switch at hand means I can shut the engine off no matter where the saw carriage is and not have to chase it down to re-start the engine.  It's a very good thing.    
 

 
Solenoid mounted under throttle/choke linkage plate using nylon spacers.  My first attempt was to mount the solenoid on top of the plate and use the factory choke linkage.  It didn't work because the solenoid didn't have enough strength to over come the friction of the linkage. :( 
 

 
Arm cut from plastic wire spool mounted to choke "hub".  You'll notice that the factory choke linkage is missing.  I thought that it was going to be in the way but, as it turns out, it wasn't and I wish I had left the parts in place.

[ladylake]

  Paul  Looks real good, what's on your list next? After 3 or so years you should have them all done.    Steve

[xlogger]

Paul, you are making me feel bad I'm just now hooking up my LA. Going to get a threaded rod today with some supports  to put beside my LA to hold the throttle cable in place leaving the LA up to the engine. We've been working so many hours at work now I've not had much time to work on it. By the way I got my letter from county zoning yesterday saying I was allowed to run my mill for my personal use. This will hurt my plans on retirement for sure but also make my new neighbor mad when I get back to sawing :D. It's so hot I'm not in a rush to saw much now. Ricky

[levans]

That's great that they sent you a letter, that way if he calls someone and they come to your mill/house all you have to do is show them the letter and send them on their way then keep on sawing look his way and smile and wave.

[Larry]

Looks professional to me.  I need to get busy and do that one.  It would save a lot of steps.

What kind of electric cable are you running back to the console?  I was wondering if it needs to be something special to take the constant flexing in the energy chain.

Here is a couple more of my mods.  I caught a bird trying to nest in the mill so...

Before


After


The top cover is a scrap of aluminum and the end cap is some kind of galvanized construction fitting I got at a flea market.

I'm sure this next one is not approved.  I saw alone most of the time.  Drag back my boards and stack while the mill is making the next cut.  Needed a way to lock the feed while I stack.  I'm sure I could have got a different type of hydraulic valve but I didn't want to make that kind of mod while the mill was still under warranty.  Came up with this feed lock.

Normal operation.


Feed locked.  A quick slap on the red handle unlocks it.

[Ga Mtn Man]

Wow Larry, I wish I had your fabrication skills.  That lever lock is a work of art.  I'm not sure I'm an experienced enough sawyer to add that feature (for now).  Those covers are a good idea and look easy to do.

I used trailer cable from Del City because of its durability and flexibility,  but it's not cheap.  There's a factory installed grey 4-conductor cable (goes to the adjustable guide motor) on my mill that looks like ordinary PVC jacketed cable.  Something like that might be less expensive.  Let me know when you get ready to do this mod and I'll email you a wiring diagram.  There are some tricks I figured out that allowed me to do it with fewer and smaller conductors. 

[TimGA]

Larry,
     I bought (2) 50 foot ext cords from home depot for hard wire to control LA and lube solenoid.  I felt it addressed the flex issue and was on sale for around 15.00 each. Around 100 hrs since installed no issues. Lot less expensive than wire off rack. If you run both cords at once be sure to identify. I used tape on each end of one.
     Just a side note, I put a remote control for throttle on at same time, for me it was a waste of time and money. Did not think it through, why would you throttle up if your not at the controls. Also remote control buttons to small to work w/ gloves.
      Hope this helps.       
                                              Tim     
         Paul nice job on mods.

[Ga Mtn Man]

Now why didn't I think of that?  You're a genious, Tim.

[Ga Mtn Man]

On second thought, do you really want that much ORANGE on your TK?

[TimGA]

Paul, 
     I was not going to bring that issue up, but since you did I must admit I put on Tan colored ones. I wanted black but were not on sale. At twice the price Tan was just fine.
                    Tim

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

On second thought, do you really want that much ORANGE on your TK?

After a while, most people paint their red mills ORANGE just in case the news media wants to do a story.  :D

[den]

vfauto
where did you get your lub valve

[Ga Mtn Man]

vfauto
where did you get your lub valve

Here's where I got mine:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-NPT-Electric-Solenoid-Valve-12-Volt-DC-12VDC-N-C-RO-Air-Water-BBTF-/290723310425?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b075ab59#ht_2178wt_784

[Ga Mtn Man]

Paul, 
     I was not going to bring that issue up, but since you did I must admit I put on Tan colored ones. I wanted black but were not on sale. At twice the price Tan was just fine.
                    Tim

I like to give David something to sink his teeth into every now and then.  ;D

[WDH]

I like to give David something to sink his teeth into every now and then.  ;D

Good.  It is hard to get David motivated :D.

[xlogger]

I too was thinking about the wiring from the switch to the LA. It shows needing 4 wires. What you think about using a 3 wire ext cord and the wire you are short making it the ground wire by grounding it out on the machine at both ends? Has anyone tried this or think it would work? That way it would not be so many wires in the chain back or forth. After this I might work on making my log clamp taller also. Great idea. Ricky

[Ga Mtn Man]

Ricky,

All the LA's that I looked at required just two wires--a positive and a negative.  What brand and model do you have?

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

Paul, 
     I was not going to bring that issue up, but since you did I must admit I put on Tan colored ones. I wanted black but were not on sale. At twice the price Tan was just fine.
                    Tim

I like to give David something to sink his teeth into every now and then.  ;D

GRRRRRRRRRRRR............ food2

[ladylake]

Ricky,

All the LA's that I looked at required just two wires--a positive and a negative.  What brand and model do you have?

Right a + and - that have to be reversed the change directions, which takes a 6 pole 3 position switch.    Steve

[Ga Mtn Man]

Steve, Your LA must be different than mine. I used a DPDT non-momentary switch.

[grweldon]

As far as holding the feel lever forward, I've just been using a bungee cord that has a 1" plastic ball attached to the end.  I've looped the bungee around the feed lever, push it forward, and stretch the bungee to a point there I can stick the ball between something to keep the lever in place.  The lever-lock in this post is awesome, but you don't have to get that fancy to address the issue.  The bungee still allows you to pull back on the lever if required.

[vfauto]

vfauto
where did you get your lub valve

E-bay like Ga_Mtn_Man said.

[ladylake]

Steve, Your LA must be different than mine. I used a DPDT non-momentary switch.

Same as I'm talking about on-off-on  with 6 terminals . 

     o +   0  -

  o la     0  la

    o-     0+     hooked up like this.     Steve

[Ga Mtn Man]

  Paul  Looks real good, what's on your list next? After 3 or so years you should have them all done.    Steve

Next on my list...find some customers and start earning $$.

[ladylake]

With the TK 2000 you can put out a lot of accurate lumber fast, advertize on craigslist and maybe some local papers and hang up some flyers.  When out on a job don't take 5 minutes to set up log like some do as that doesn't impress anyone, that's one of the biggest complaints I get about former sayers. Word of mouth is giong good here as I've had 55 days of sawing on the road since Feb and quite a bit at home also, I still get some new ones off craigslist once in a while.    Steve

[kgbond]

xlogger

Could you please take pics as you are installing the LA, its supports and  its electrical  connections. I am in the dark as to how you guys are doing this mod.

Kimball

[xlogger]

Steve, my switch is like you showed. I guess I'll just get two 2 wire ext cords and run to the switch. One will have to come from the battey to the switch  and the other leaving the switch going to the LA. The ext cords should work good going threw the chain. I'll try to get some pics as I do it Kimball but my LA is close to Ga MT Man's. I just drill two holes in the plate that the engine mounts on to, one for the la to fit into and the other for a threaded rod to hold the throttle cable steady as it goes to the engine. I still have more work to do, I've been out of town for a couple days I hope to get it fixed by this weekend. Ricky

[Ga Mtn Man]

Ricky,

You only need to run two conductors.  You can take +12V off of the adjustable guide switch and use chassis GND for the (-).

[xlogger]

Thanks Paul, don't know why I didn't think of that.

[xlogger]

I've got to find a heavier throttle cable from the LA to the engine. My line bent yesterday morning after setting still for a few days. I sprayed WD40 on it after that and it worked fine from then on. Also I was looking on ebay at the LA's and was thinking about getting one with just an 4" stroke. What is yours Paul? Ricky

[Ga Mtn Man]

Ricky,

Mine has a 4" stroke but a 2" stroke would have been enough.  I bought one with adjustable limit switches so it was easy to fine-tune the limits.

[red pine]

Thank you Mountain Man and Xlogger for sharing those wonderful add-ons/improvements to the TK2000. I started with the lub valve and love it. TK is suppose to be working on a remote throttle, so I will wait to see what they come up with.   Redpine

[Ga Mtn Man]

Thanks redpine, but I can't really take credit for most of those mods.  Others had figured out how to do them long before I ever bought my mill. smiley_clapping

[ladylake]

TK sent out a flyer last week with a remote throttle option for the 2000, had it priced at $5000.  Has to be a misprint.   Also that should be stanard equipment on all mills with a remote operator station.    Steve

[Larry]

A couple more mods.



As built blade guard.





After a year of use.  I really don't know how necessary this one is, but I think it helps keep some of the long cedar bark from making a mess.  May also keep a blade from breaking when a chunk breaks off.  In any case it doesn't detract.





69 cents from Harbor Freight.  Gives me a rough level without near as much running back and forth.  The payback on this mod was the first day.  Sometimes it's the little things that make a day go smooth.

While Imma writing thought I would mention the TK remote throttle is now available for $550. 

My water tank broke the other day from rough handling by you know who.  Thought I would check with TK for a replacement tank.  They have a new model that is UV resistant to withstand rough handling from oafs like me.  It also has a new price tag of $65 plus shipping.  Standby for the Larry water tank mod...price $4.99.  Field trials in progress.

[ladylake]

 Larry ,looks good. I know my blade life increased quite a bit after I put on a good chip deflector as all that derbis doesn,t get under the guide wheels and drive wheel. I get some nice heavy duty 5 gal jugs from local dairy farmers. TK sent me a flyer about a month with a remote throttle for the TK2000 for only $5000, I figured it was a missprint.  At $550 it's well worth it with less fuel used and better blade life but a lot cheaper if you do it yourself.      Steve

[Ga Mtn Man]

Larry,

Looks factory-made (or better)!  I've been thinking I need to add one to my mill.  Now I won't have to figure out how to do it.   Have you got a picture of the back side?   Do you put it right down on top of the blade?  Is there a way to adjust it up/down or do you just rotate it on the bolt?

I recently spoke with a  guy  who had just gotten a quote for a TK 2000.  He said TK was including the throttle at no charge.  Smart move on their part.  I'm very curious to see what TK has come up with. ???

[ladylake]

 
I run my chip deflector about 1/8" above the blade and it just rotates on the guide bolt.   Maybe TK is listening to us about the throttle control if it's stanard now, it should be on all mills with a stationary operators post.   Steve

[Woodkiller]

Steve when I ordered my mill yesterday it showed the remote throttle as included in the price, not as a option.

[Ga Mtn Man]

Congrats on the new mill, Woodkiller!  What's the estimated delivery date?

Edit: Sorry, I did't see your other post. ;D

[Woodkiller]

They said 3-5 weeks. Might be a little quicker cause I told them I have the money waiting...I think they like that.

[Larry]

Have you got a picture of the back side?   Do you put it right down on top of the blade?  Is there a way to adjust it up/down or do you just rotate it on the bolt?

The white plastic is HDPE.  I get it dumpster diving at the local water jet place.  Walmart sells a cutting board that appears to be the same material.  In any case get enough to replace your track scrapers when they become wore/broken.




Back side.  Pop rivets hold things together.

I run my guard same as Steve.

[Larry]

I usually take a good look at the mill before sawing or after I quit for the day.  Little over a year ago while inspecting I noticed this.  These are the hoses going to the clamp.



I suppose a Ty-rap had broken, letting the hoses dangle.  TK sent me a couple of new hoses which were covered by the warranty.  They also advised watching the hoses that go to the log turner.

I really couldn't get the clearance I wanted with just Ty-raps.  A bit of junk fire hose was the answer.  I checked the hoses today and they haven't moved since re-doing them over a year ago.

While in the maintenance mood, I also wrapped a couple of hoses on the forklift with fire hose.  The fire hose seems to be some really tough stuff.



 

[Ga Mtn Man]

A few mods:



 
A snubber to protect the gauge from shock when the blade breaks. 


 
Enlarged the sawdust exhaust opening and added a chute. 


 
Up position for travel. 


 
Some 1/4" plastic cutting boards pop-riveted on to protect blades and blade guards.

[xlogger]

Looks great Paul. I really need to do that with my mill also. Ricky

[xlogger]

I moved my drip system today. I put it under the cover on the idle pulley side with a felt dragging on the blade. Got to find a glass drip valve that controls the drip better than the one that come on it. Didn't get a chance to use it today but I think it should work fine. I'd post a pic but got a new computer with windows 8 and it like starting all over again with learning to run it.  Ricky

[Rougespear]

Old thread I know, but a couple follow-up questions maybe someone knows:

1) Do you find the actuation time of the system is fast enough for a throttle up? (I thought linear actuators moved quite slowly)
2) How did you modify the 2" actuator to have a shorter stroke?  Or is it stupid hard...

Thanks!

[Ga Mtn Man]

As I recall, I never noticed the actuation time of the throttle being slow.  I would suggest you find a linear actuator with a 1" throw.  That's what TK uses.  The adjustable limit switches make it easier to adjust the actuator/throttle connection but aren't necessary.

I believe that this is the actuator that TK is using:  http://www.thomsonlinear.com/en/product/DE12-17W41-01FNHHN.  After having two of the cheapo ebay ones fail, I found the 2" version of this actuator on a surplus website (I forget exactly where) and modified it to have a 1" stroke.  It wasn't easy but it worked great and never failed.

[Kbeitz]

Some linear actuators has settings inside under the back cover
to adjust the throw to what ever you want. They have there own
limit switches.

[kensfarm]

Did you guys add a valve to the stack valve for the clamp mod?  What & where did you buy?  I would like to add the hydraulic log stops too.  I think the log turner puts a lot of pressure against the first manual log stop.. it keeps coming out of square.. I crank the bolts down tight.. I think some have welded there's in place.  Thank you! 

[Ga Mtn Man]

Did you guys add a valve to the stack valve for the clamp mod?  What & where did you buy?  I would like to add the hydraulic log stops too.  I think the log turner puts a lot of pressure against the first manual log stop.. it keeps coming out of square.. I crank the bolts down tight.. I think some have welded there's in place.  Thank you!

The TK2000 comes with hydraulic controls for both the x and y directions of the clamp.  All we did was extend the length of the clamp (in the Y direction).   I also heavily modified my clamp mount to handle the increased torque of the taller clamp.