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band saw blades . . . . again

Started by opticsguy, April 22, 2012, 10:23:57 PM

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opticsguy

My first question about band saw blades, seems there are always posts about this subject.

Purchased 12 blades with my new saw, 13 total and now on blade #7.

The first two blades performed well, but this was my first cutting experience.
Blade #3 flew through the logs like a hot knife in warm butter and lasted a very long time.
Blade #4 was the same as the first 2 - average.
Blade #5 seemed to be ok, but dulled quickly despite the fact I was cutting boards with no outside bark/log edges. 
Blade #6 was DOA,   At the beginning of the cut the blade dove down at least a 25 degree angle. A dismount and remount produced the same result.
Blade #7 is performing well.

So, my question is , do you often see this kind of variety in new blades?  How about after a re-sharpening?

This next week i will be taking a few blades to a local shop for a resharpening and see what happens.

Also do you guys fold your blades up or just carry them in to saw shop as is?

TK 1220 band mill,  1952 Ford F-2, 1925 Dodge touring, too many telescopes.

Chuck White

Seems odd to me to get such varying degrees of cutting quality in new blades!

When I unpack my blades, I fold them and they stay that way unless I'm setting or sharpening them, or they're on the mill.  Just easier to handle!

~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

bandmiller2

I've found most bands consistant in a lot.The variable is the logs unseen grit is the big problem. Were the bands a name brand.? Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

davey duck

I just used a box of 15 blades in the last monththey all worked fine ,went from 300-600 board feet per blade the lower numbers were from cutting flood plane popular that had years of silt in the bark,I am using .42 1 1/4 x158 10 deg.silvertip woodmizer blades.
David G.Fleming

opticsguy

Thanks for your replies. 

I am trying to figure out if blades always vary so much, or if it is something I am doing or??

All my trees are Maple and Alder. I either remove the bark where the blades cut or wash pretty thoroughly with a garden hose.

The one blade that keeps diving down at 25 degrees really surprises me. 

Yes, my blades came supplied with my TK saw.  I do not know the specs on my blades.

What should i ask for when I get them resharpened? (specs)

TK 1220 band mill,  1952 Ford F-2, 1925 Dodge touring, too many telescopes.

pineywoods

Not enough set or more set on one side than the other. Problem gets worse when the blade gets dull. Dive /climb problems are almost always the blade. Don't go tweakin on the mill to try to correct it, just make it worse. If you are still using the blades that came with the mill, I assume you are new at the sawyer game. Don't feel bad, most of us went through the same problems with a new mill. Took me quite a while to learn the difference between a blade that feels sharp and one that is truely sharp sharp.
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

hackberry jake

I agree with piney. Have the shop check and reset the set.
https://www.facebook.com/TripleTreeWoodworks

EZ Boardwalk Jr. With 20hp Honda, 25' of track, and homemade setworks. 32x18 sawshed. 24x40 insulated shop. 30hp kubota with fel. 1978 Massey ferguson 230.

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