Stihl MS362 Vrs Husqvarna 357xp

[John Mc]

Tramp Bushler -

Sheesh! take a breath and simmer down a bit.

As I went to pains to indicate in my post, I'm not trying to tell anyone how they have to operate. I'm just presenting an option.

I made five points on why I prefer a shorter bar. All but one were clearly relating to my personal preference and the situations in which I'm cutting. The one point about poor body mechanics is an ergonomic fact. It's a fact that may not matter to some users... especially someone with the experience and conditioning which you apparently have. It is something that should at least be considered. At any rate, nothing in that post is claiming that everyone should be using 16" bars. You use what works for you, for the type of cutting you are doing.

I have a lot of respect for your experience, but I'm not going to roll over and play dead just because you expressed an opinion. If that means your going to put me on ignore, go right ahead. I guess I'll find some way to live with that.

One of the reasons I like this site is because it's about a free and open exchange of ideas, without the one-upsmanship and personal attacks that seems to dominate some other sites. I try not to engage in that myself. However, it seems you have chosen to interpret my remarks as a personal attack on you or your methods. It was not intended to be. In reading back over what I posted, I'm not sure just what it was I wrote that seems to have set you off.

[Tramp Bushler]

With a longer bar the powerhead stays closer to your body , aleivating strain on your back and you can stand up straighter . Longer bars make for more accurate falling and your hands and mug are farther away from limbs that spring around ..

With someone gearing up to log I'm trying to show him a better more satisfying way to cut . .
And if your saw is truely sharp you control it in the cut not push it . .

Having used an aweful lot of about every bar length remotely common . I didn't recomend what I did from west coast prejudice but because its just easier and funner  . .

[SFritz]

I am new here but not to chainsaws and cutting.Both saws are good but the 562xp would be my choice seeing I am Husky guy.An auto-tune will even compensate for a dull chain.

[John Mc]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, SFritz.  Good to have you here.

I've only run an autotune saw for a few cuts - not enough to really evaluate what the auto tune does. I'm not sure what, exactly an Auto-tune might do to "compensate" for a dull chain. My preferred method for compensating for a dull chain is to sharpen it ;D 

[Tramp Bushler]

I am new here but not to chainsaws and cutting.Both saws are good but the 562xp would be my choice seeing I am Husky guy.An auto-tune will even compensate for a dull chain.

  HOW  . A dull chain is a dull chain .

[Tramp Bushler]

 John ; we may argue on other points but were in total agreement on this . . You worded that perfectly . I'm still laug 8) 8)hing 

[John Mc]

Thanks, TB

BTW, SFritz, I don't mean to be picking on you - especially not on your first post. I'm sure the autotune feature does make some sort of adjustment for the extra load the engine sees when cutting with a dull chain. Just as it probably runs a little differently when cutting 3" pine limbs vs burying a 20" bar in hardwood.

I just couldn't resist my earlier post (and I have to admit, I sometimes do make those one or two extra cuts when I know the chain ought to be sharpened)

[Timbercruiser]

Thanks Tramp . I agree on the longer bar its better for limbing and doing just about anything. I had to cut into a bunch of blow down bush while hunting one time. And even cutting small 6 inch trees with spring tension on them I wish on a 60 cc saw I had a 24 inch bar just so I could stay out of the way of the loaded cuts.

[Tramp Bushler]

Ya . I called some camps today . As most of what I've been cutting the past few years is Bone dry fully seasoned White spruce snags , my bars are shot . Chains too . Actually I would have needed alot of newer bars and chains if I was cutting big green timber .
My powerheads are good . The 460 Stihls are really tough and last a long time . The 372 does also . Mine is the Western version so it has the 75 cc jug+ piston . The proformance between the two is nonexistant but the Husky is funner to run . Smoother on the hands too .

[JHBC]

Just read this topic, and have to say I've been nodding along to what Mr. T B has been writing. 
I also am a strong supporter of the Stihl 460. Love it. 
Back to the original question, I think for the size, and bar size etc., you are getting a slightly more "pro" saw with the MS362, over the 357XP.  As for fallers pants, Big K 'logger king' are avil in 3600 and 4100, good pants.  Kuny's has the same options too.  I can't remember the brand, but I recently saw some nice hi-vis reflective striped water repellent pants that were 4100's, over $200 though.

Anyways, big bars absolutely work. I lose my mind when I have read things like " you only need an 18" bar for a 36" tree".  Please people use the right equipment.

[Tramp Bushler]

JH . Could you post a link to those cutting pants . I need some good ones . I need to get down to BC . I' de like to go to Victoria , to Vibergs . The timber in Bc is just about the same as what I,ve cut in Southeast .

[Johnny]

did ya get your saw yet?!  i bought a 362w around december and it's a good saw.  the heated handle keeps wet hands alive, real good.  the air filter stays clean so much better than any other stihl i've had.  had the needle bearing and drum pick up and chewed itself out after a couple of months, lubed it same as any other saw i run; the new bearing and drum have been fine since so don't know about that.  good light saw.  use it for felling small hardwood (thinnings) and for all limbing.

over here in UK a lot of people go for the shortist bar possible.  when in the yard processing logs down ready for the firewood splitter i go with that, with a 15" on 362 and 18" (8 tooth rim) or 25" (7 tooth) on the 660, coz the logs are stacked up close and it's just crosscutting all day everyday using the dogs.  but felling and limbing it's not good for my back bending all the way over to get a 15" bar where you want it.

finding 18" bar .325 chain 9 tooth rim set works fast for limbing hardwoods on the ms362.  can hear that chain whirr round the bar.  speedy.  makes the best chainsaw pants void tho!

all the best.

stihl hiflex chainsaw pants are very comfortable (on a cold day...)

[Tramp Bushler]

Hey Johnny . Welcome to F F
Ya , I bet that has some chain speed .

[JHBC]

Hi again,  hope these links work:

www.bigkclothing.com
www.kunysleather.com

Also Viberg is at  www.workboot.com  They will custom make any style you need.  They are top notch.

IRL Forestry Supply has an online catalog, and is an excellent supplier also.

[Tramp Bushler]

 Thanks JH . I've got 3 pair of Vibergs so far . Best built boot I've ever seen . Kuliens may be as good , but there 900$ a pair . I'm going to send my 45 with the steel toe + rubber soles in and get them rebuilt to corks and have the steel toe taken out . . My 105 Ts ate still doing great and I got them new in 94 .
Thanks for the links .

[weimedog]

Hi everyone I am new to cutting and larger saws. I would like to buy a good pro saw for felling and bucking here in North Ontario canada. My choice is between a sthil ms 362 or a husky 357xp. What is a better saw ? I need your help please. I can save $150 bucks on a sthil with a free case and other stuff. The husqvarna is more moeny but is it a better saw please help me out ???  They make a 562xp now with autotune carb ? not sure on this either.

I would pick a Husqvarna 555 or 562xp over either of those options in a heart beat. Never liked the 357xp with its intake boot to intake manifold clamp...early ones were plastic and would eventually leak, later models apparently problem solved. They never performed to justify the price for me, in that chassis series the much less expensive 359 was more in line with price performance I would expect from Husqvarna.  And that Stihl is a nice saw ...until you experience a Husqvarna 555 which is smoother with at least the sanme power for a fraction of the price...and if you have to spend Stihl sized dollars the Husqvarna 562xp is a lot more saw. And then..there is the Husqvarna 365, (The new X-Torq one). For the dollars the sleeper of this era if weight isn't as much of an issue as bang per buck. It is essentially a lightly detuned 372. (How you can tell if the 365 you are looking at is an X-Torq..they have removably tranfer port caps on the side of the cylinder)