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Stihl MS362 Vrs Husqvarna 357xp

Started by Timbercruiser, April 08, 2012, 04:49:05 PM

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Timbercruiser

Hi everyone I am new to cutting and larger saws. I would like to buy a good pro saw for felling and bucking here in North Ontario canada. My choice is between a sthil ms 362 or a husky 357xp. What is a better saw ? I need your help please. I can save $150 bucks on a sthil with a free case and other stuff. The husqvarna is more moeny but is it a better saw please help me out ???  They make a 562xp now with autotune carb ? not sure on this either.

scouter Joe

Hi timbercruiser and welcome to the forums . Where in Northern Ontario are you from ?
I always tell my customers that any of the big 3 will be good Husky Jonsered or Stihl . Far more important is the dealer you are buying it from . If you are cutting a lot make sure you get a professional model . If you are just cutting a bit of firewood then a lower priced saw will work for you . scouter Joe

Timbercruiser

I live in Thunder bay ont. Both those saws the MS362 stihl and the Husqvarna are pro saws. Some people say a stihl burns less gas ?  Most cutters in BC seem to run Stihl saws ? the Stihls are cheaper but all the Dealers here sell both. You seem to get more free stuff with the Stihl but all my small saws have been Huskys.

Ianab

Very comparable saws. You would be happy running either.

So it comes down to factors like cost, dealer support, freebies to sweeten the deal, how the saw "feels" in your hands, do you like the dealer etc

If the Stihl was $150 less and had freebies with it, I'd be going that way. If the Husky dealer had a better deal, I'd be tempted that way.

It's the whole Ford vs Chevy thing, there is no really "wrong" choice, get the deal that you like the best.

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

John Mc

I'd check out the 562XP (lists only about $20 more than the 357XP). It's a bit more saw than the 357, with only a little more weight.

The other one to check for in this size range is the Husky 555. It lists for $630, significantly less than the 357 or 562. The 555 is not listed as an "XP" saw, but it is still professional style construction. Someone posted a video of it going up against a 357XP. The 555 won.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

nmurph

I know an Ontario dealer that has posted several times that he cannot get 555/562.

thecfarm

The only thing I'm fussy with is tractor brands. They are both good saws. I would ask around for dealer support.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Dale1948

Both are great saws. I find that the smaller dealers are best. Ones that deal in just saws and related equipment give you faster and more personal service.

Tramp Bushler

What has been said is corect . It's a toss up . A big thing is how does the saw feel in your hands . Having owned and made a living with around 60 of each brand it is the individuel saw that you will either like or not . I would flat recomend either the 440 Stihl or the 372 Husky . 2 of the very best saws ever invented on planet earth . They both tend to last a LONG LONG LONG time with little to no problems . One thing to consider is what bar the saws take . I think the 357 takes a small Husky mount . The 362 takes the regular Stihl mount .
Another absolutely must have when you buy a pro saw for professional cutting is . You MUST have a good spare bar , and when u get the saw get at least 3 chains with it .
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If your not wearing your hard hat when you need it. Well.

Tramp Bushler

The chain is the single most important thing on a saw . For a new cutter I recomend full skip 3/8 s chisel bit . Especially if you are cutting Poplar orconifers . A new guy won't realize any increase proformance from full comp. But it sure is Alot more daunting a prospect fileing a real dull full comp .
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If your not wearing your hard hat when you need it. Well.

Cut4fun

I wonder if Canada has the 560xp option.   

Tramp Bushler

For general saw chain ? The Bailey's master catalog had a very good section at the front of the catalog . Madsen's always has a very good chain and pro saw info section and you can download their catalog free .

As T C is getting started with his own gypo loggin outfit , I'de like to see him get the right stuff from the get go . . You do wear CHAPS OR CUTTING PANTS DON'T YOU . !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I didn't care for the 441 Stihl . Too heavy , not enuf  power for its weight .if they put a 5 cub.jug on it it would be a good saw . The 440 Stihl is ideal as is the 372 Husky .
A 24" 3/8 50 ga. Runnin full skip Chisel bit chain
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If your not wearing your hard hat when you need it. Well.

Tramp Bushler

T C . I'm going to give posting pics in order . Tough t do 

  

  

  with an Android.

If it comes out correctly it will be , Full Skip , Semi Skip , and Full Comp.
All chisel bit .
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If your not wearing your hard hat when you need it. Well.

Tramp Bushler

Yup , it worked . My prefered is semi skip . Full comp is smooth but tends to rob your power . Full skip cleans good in the cut . Is a little rougher , but not bad .

I've cut green birch at 40 below  with full skip 3/8 chisel . It worked fine .
A SHARP chain is Far more important than the #of cutters per foot .
You can see how many more teeth to file or grind you have with full comp than with full skip . Basically it is easier to get a full skip chain perfectly sharp than it is full comp. Keep your top angle @30 degrees !! Unless your good then  go to 28 degrees . Joint at 30 thousands . Roughly 3 licks with an 8" rider file .
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If your not wearing your hard hat when you need it. Well.

Timbercruiser

Thanks and yes I wear cutting pants and cutting boots always. Would like to find decent light weight pants cause these ones are heavy with full wrap Kevlar pads in it. I bet it would work good but very warm. Due the feller buncher invention we dont have nearly the slection of stuff for the hand cutters as we should. Around home its hard to get good stuff. Did you ever use the screen goggles instead of a face shield. ?? I work in construction now with grinders and welding so I always like to use the PPE needed to feel safer in case of a mistake. Thanks for all your advice everyone

John Mc

I haven't found the need for full skip (or even semi skip) on my 357XP (one of the saws the OP was considering)... but then I'm not cutting huge trees either. I'm cutting mostly 16" and under hardwoods, and occasionally up to 20-24".  It spends most of it's time with a 16" bar, which I find is a good match for it. Occasionally I put a 20" bar on it.  Also, I tend to use this saw for both felling and limbing. Full skip chain is not much fun for limbing.

If I went to a longer bar, I might try semi- or full-skip, but if I were doing a lot of cutting which required a longer bar, I'd be using a different saw anyway.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Tramp Bushler

Outside chaps are cooler than cutting pants . Air pumps between the chap pad and your leg with every step so it helps keep you cool .. I can't understand why people think a short bar is so good for limbing . I guess if your limbing walking on the ground . But chaseing on the landing even a short bar is just unsatisfying . And I've done Lots of cutting with a 20" bar . On a 60 cc saw , a 24" is just right . For smaller timber . The 25" Stihl bar is a good comprimise . Just need a sharp chain so the saw cuts good at the tip . A 20" bar is great on a 260/261 Stikl or a 346 Husky .

T C . I have to get my cutting stuff mail order . Yes I wear cutting BUGZ screen goggles when I have my contacts in . The cutters hard hat systems with the flip screen are great when I wear glasses .
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If your not wearing your hard hat when you need it. Well.

Tramp Bushler

I found the # 10 mesh was too open . The #20 or #30 screen is just right . The screens on Bugz is stainless steel so it doesn't rust .
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If your not wearing your hard hat when you need it. Well.

Tramp Bushler

Quote from: Timbercruiser on May 06, 2012, 06:51:16 PM
Thanks and yes I wear cutting pants and cutting boots always. Would like to find decent light weight pants cause these ones are heavy with full wrap Kevlar pads in it. I bet it would work good but very warm. Due the feller buncher invention we dont have nearly the slection of stuff for the hand cutters as we should. Around home its hard to get good stuff. Did you ever use the screen goggles instead of a face shield. ?? I work in construction now with grinders and welding so I always like to use the PPE needed to feel safer in case of a mistake. Thanks for all your advice everyone



A guy I used to cut with a guy who got his cutting pants out of Canada . Where do you get yours . Can you link a web site ?? Or email it .?? To be fair to the advertisers here I like the Husky brand pants that Baileys sells But they are not very warm at 30 below . And the dangle pads that Labonville has are a VERY FALSE SENSE OF SECURITY . I've cut with 2 guys that got cut quite bad wearing them . The chain pushes them out of the way and goes to eating flesh .
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If your not wearing your hard hat when you need it. Well.

Timbercruiser

Its hard here in canada to find cutting pants . Its been to long since the day of the hand cutter in my part of the world.  I bought mine at baileys they were woodland pro cutting pants nice pants for less that 100 bucks but very hot for summer.  Stihl seems to have some nice light weight pants at the dealer at home. The few one man outfits at home that still hand cut all say they cant find good boots or pants anymore. The hand cutter is a lost art now getting less all the time in ontario. Everyone wanted to get big and fast and cut 150 chords a day with a buncher. Now are timber market is lost due to greed and lack of raw material.

John Mc

Quote from: Tramp Bushler on May 06, 2012, 08:29:28 PM
I can't understand why people think a short bar is so good for limbing . I guess if your limbing walking on the ground . But chaseing on the landing even a short bar is just unsatisfying.

I'm not trying to tell you what to do, just relating what works for me. Yes, my limbing is done walking on the ground... I'm not an arborist, so I'm not limbing while climbing trees. There are several reasons I use a 16" bar on my 357 XP:

  • as already mentioned, most of the trees I fell are under 16"... no point in carrying around more bar and saw than I need to do the job. In fact, a number of pro loggers in this area ue 16" bars.
  • cutting at the end of a long bar is extremely poor body mechanics. You are at the wrong end of a long lever. Don't reach, take a step closer; bend your legs or change your stance to get lower (I'm married to someone with a doctorate in Physical Therapy, so I get ragged on about this all the time) I don't use a 24" bar if I'm not cutting 24" wood
  • I like the balance of the saw with the shorter bar much better
  • a shorter bar is more maneuverable
  • I have chronic neck and upper back troubles from a wrestling injury years ago. Too often, long bouts of wood cutting end up with a couple of trips to the chiropractor. So I uses the shortest bar and lightest saw I can afford to efficiently get the job done.

This works well for me, but I recognize that some of those reasons may not apply to others. #2 is a biggy, though. Using a longer bar just for more "reach" (as opposed to using it to cut bigger wood) is a false economy, and often ends up causing the user more problems than it solves.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

John Mc

I have the Husqvarna Summer weight pants. In the winter, I either wear those pants over long underwear (polypropylene or similar). I don't have room for a lot of layers under them, so if it gets too cold, I go to my full wrap chaps over whatever layers are appropriate.

I have to admit, I'm not as hard core as Tramp Bushler. 30 below is too cold for me. I've been out cutting in 0˚F, but not much colder (or at least not for very long).
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Tramp Bushler

John , I going to try to say this without being rude but I can't make any garrentees .

I've been running a saw for a living for about 34 years . I've cut on both the Atlantic and Pacific side of the Continant . I've owned and run for $ 134 different saws ranging in size from baby top handle arborist saws to Stihl Lightnings . The average year fallin timver on the coast of Alaska I woyld fall , limv and buck around 5 million board feet merch . And about the same volume cull scale . I've clum and topped somewhere around 500 trees pre commercially thinned around 400 acres . Cut and sold 6-700 cord of
firewood . Ran saws with bars from 12"-50" . Fell timver up to 12' across the
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If your not wearing your hard hat when you need it. Well.

Tramp Bushler

 Fell timber up to 12' across the stump . The stump I'm standing on is just a nice tree I fell and I happened to have my phone on me and someone to take a pic .

Beins I've probably cut far more timber than you just when I was growing up in Maine . Cutting the same size and species you are . But as a professional logger . You should maybe read + think .

I've been trying to help T C . Get geared up so he can excel at his loggin operation . And will continue to .

You I will probably put on ignore .
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If your not wearing your hard hat when you need it. Well.

Cut4fun

Was just told the 562xp is now available in Canada. Guy said his dealer had 2 in.

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