Woodmizer capacities??? How large can I really cut?

[UpInATree]

My original understanding from before I purchased my mill was that I could handle a 36 inch diameter log on my LT70.  I got a job to cut up some great trees by a customer who was excited to meet me.  He had black walnut, ash, white and red oak, maple, locust, basswood, and hickory!  Then the big disappointment came to us.  Many of these logs were 34 to 43 inches in diameter.  I said that I could do 36 on the phone so we went forward.  Put this monster walnut up on the mill and then realized the opening between the guides was only 28 inches.  So we trimmed here and there to just fit under that and WRONG when you figure the back stops you lose 3 more inches.  Am I doing something stupid?  Is there a magical expansion maneuver I don't know?  I guess this is why people talk about slabbing so much eh?  My customer had wanted live edge slabs.  After sawing up that first walnut we put the other Monster Trees aside and sawed everything else.  The logs that fit all came out great.  So I ask all of you veterans:  How large a diameter can you effectively work with on a Woodmizer?  Is there a way to offset the log...maybe screw it to a board?...that will give you back those 3 inches lost for the stops clearance?  What is the best option for slabbing the big ones?   Pictures to follow

[terrifictimbersllc]

You will saw logs 36 and over but that doesn't mean you will like it.  Possibly you already understand much about your question maybe more than you realize.   One can lower the backstops and scoot the log over to the left to to get extra clearance you are asking about.  Doing this initially, is a key strategy in being able to make ANY cuts on a big log.  If the back end of your log won't move under max clamp pressure and you can't pry it over, try raising the back roller a bit and dropping it (repeat this fast) and the log may scoot over.  If your log is oval shaped and you can get the tall dimension vertical you can cut at your max height (35" on LT40) if clearance allows.  It's all about clearance along the whole length and being able to finish the cut you start.  You're not going to be making live edge lumber much over 25".  There is much written in threads here on this, one very helpful strategy is to trim at 45 degree rotations (called "Bibbying") until you get the log under control.  In addition to creating more clearance on the right, this also has the advantage of controlling the log from going over to far by having more flats for it to sit on as you saw around it.  If you can't finish the cut you start, you'll be getting out the chainsaw and making room for the guide arm.  Keep the top button on your shirt fastened, be careful, and good luck   

[bandmiller2]

Them big-uns are a hassle no matter what you do.Be thankfull you have one open side,on a four poster the space between the posts is all she wrote.You must take shallow slab cuts turning slightly until you can fit between the guides.Sometimes the curvature of the log requires spacers in front of the backstops.Needless to saw prodigous chainsaw trimming is required. Frank C.

[Magicman]

I will lay a 4X4 next to the side supports (for insurance) and then carefully lower them enough to allow the log to roll over so that the blade guide barely clears the log.  Steady as she goes while doing this because your day is just beginning if you allow the log to roll off.


 
I am using a 1X2 here for insurance.


 
Here is a "too big" oval log turned for the first face opening.


 
Here is the same log being Bibbyed.

Also letting the butt hang below the deck will allow you to squeak out a bit more room.

[Bibbyman]

We have all sawn logs bigger than 36" on a Wood-Mizer by hook and crook.

But there is obviously no way you can saw threw the center of a large log on an LT40 or LT70.

I'll add, be cautious as a cat when sawing these large ones. Make sure the support posts are set up solid. Make sure the loading arms are up while turning.

[laffs]

If your looking to make live edge slabs , your limited to how far the guide wheels will move apart. You can more than likely square up a 36" log but, if you say your guides open up to 28" and lose 3" because of the back stop then your limited to 25" for live edge. The only way I see and you can live edge wider than that is to 3 side a log and join two pieces together

[ladylake]

  You really don't lose the 3" cutting live edge as the bottom will be rounded also allowing the log to move over to the left guide wheel but it better be on perfect or sometime it can be pushed one way or another  to get by knob curves. Did I mention I hate those big snarly crooked logs.  Steve

[isawlogs]

If you are looking at sawing wide live edge out of those big logs , woodmizer is not the mill you need.  :-\   You might get 28" if all the stars line up.

[Magicman]

Yup, I believe TK and EZ Boardwalk will both saw much wider.

[tyb525]

It's a good idea to know what your mill can and can't do before you mill for a customer.

If he wants 38" slabs, better call someone with a chainsaw mill or a lucas/peterson slabber. Even at 25", sawing slabs with a WM is not ideal.

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

It's a good idea to know what your mill can and can't do before you mill for a customer.

Very good advice. When I first got my mill, I turned down 2 jobs. I knew my WM would do the job, but I did not feel comfortable milling their BIG logs.. I was honest with both customers and they respected my honesty......I just didn't want to ruin their lumber. It took me a while to learn my mill but the important thing is it took my mill a while to learn me.

Now I have 2 very good customers I can saw lumber for since I've learned. But I do not tell a customer I can saw what he wants unless I know I can and my mill can.

[UpInATree]

Thank you everyone for your input.  Today was a more positive one, as we did figure out how to shift the logs over and take advantage of the few inches on the backstop side.  Fortunately this customer is also a family friend and has taken the "learning curve" attitude very well.  We had fun together sawing up logs and making sawdust.  It is the first time that I have moved my mill off property for a job, and it was a surprise for me when a logging truck showed up with more logs to mill.  Aside of the live edge width limitation I absolutely love my mill.  As long as the log fits up there, the machine is terrific.  It looks like I need to investigate those slabbers

[WDH]

The big ones can vex you. 

[Magicman]

More logs showing up at a saw site is a common occurrence.  I have sawed for three days and still had more logs than were there at the beginning.  Other times, a neighbor would stop by, see what was happening, go home, and start felling.  When I finished, I would then move to the neighbor's place and start sawing.

[DR Buck]

I've had a fair number of logs up to 38+ inches that I've been able to mill.  It just takes a little whittling to get the 1st good board.  :D  Two weeks ago I tried a 42" without success.  I had to take it off the mill and half it with a chainsaw. 

You can go over 36 inches in the vertical direction.  I think with the board return there is still about 8" above the blade.  You can saw that piece off and put it aside until you break down the rest of the log into boards. 

Once I tried to mill a 36" log that was 20 ft long.       It was VERY difficult.  I exceeded the capacity of the mill hydraulics.  It took three helpers with cant hooks to assist the turner.  Then the off bearers had to deal with 24" wide 8/4 20 ft slabs. ;D

[bandmiller2]

A challenge is one thing but your wise to figure how big a log you can mill with a sniff of profit, and refuse anything larger,yea I'am no fun. Frank C.

[snowshoveler]

Big boards eh...
A few years ago.
I had some pine here that was 36 inch diameter on average.
Friend of mine has a baker hydraulic mill with all the toys on it.
He could just bareley saw a 36 inch diameter log, it had to be perfect.
I got a lot of 22 and 24 inch clear lumber out of that setup.
Lesson I learned was, wide boards are heavy. Wide slab wood is heavy.
Even with some equipment to help me that wide stuff will knock the snot out of me.
I don't plan on getting any more of it.
I still have a good bit of the wide boards, havent used it myself and people think you should sell it cheap.
To me the clear stuff is worth at least 2 bucks a board foot when it is that wide.
Just my opinion, your mileage may vary.
Chris 

[WDH]

Chris,

I agree.  It is worth it.

[pnyberg]

Hey, Up...

Are you in business?  Do you have a website?  I'm registered to work in MA, but often get calls from people much farther away than I would like to travel.  Let me know if you'd like referrals.

--Peter

[MHineman]

  When asked by a customer how big a log I can saw, I tell them the official limits are 21 feet long by 36 in diameter, but the practical limits are 20 feet and 32 inch diameter inside the bark on the big end, but preferably not both limits in the same log.
  I explain that few logs are truely straight and rarely round.  I also remind them for the purpose of sawing we have to get the mill past the bark as well as the wood.
  As others have said, you've got to figure if it is practical to saw the log, not just if it's possible.

[Brucer]

You can saw a perfectly round, 36" diameter log (with no bark) on a Wood-Mizer. You will be whittling the log down 1" at a time until it's about a 24" square cant. You can speed the process up by rotating it 45 degrees each turn, effectively turning the big end into an octagon. This will let you cut 2" or 3" slabs off each face until you get down to 24".

You can saw bigger logs by pushing the log over beyond the sidestops.

I have sawn up to 40" diameter with 2" thick bark on top of it.  I had to cut a notch down one side with a chainsaw to clear the outboard guide rollers. I don't usually do this unless the log has a lot of flair on it and the top end is 36" or less.

[Magicman]

 

 
Butt swell Cypress.


 
About 45" before chainsaw trimming.


 
This shows the log end after I have made a full 360° rotation taking off as much as the sawmill would allow at each stop.  The small end of this log was about 34", so once the butt was whittled down, it was easy sawing.

I billed ½ hour "hourly rate" in addition to the sawed lumber because of the lost time due to the oversize log butt.

[giant splinter]

I find it very interesting to observe photos and read all the different methods and ideas that relate to the limits of these mills.
I know how much time and effort goes in to the process of pushing the limits when it comes to the shape,length,diameter of these oversized logs as I have given it a few tries on my own beams and oversized logs,so far without damaging any equipment. I think that taking your time and checking everything before you get to sawing and during the cut is important and you can't be careful enough about your equipment, you and your help when you take on a extra difficult task. On some of the real big stuff you can't see everything you need to keep an eye on and if the log is not secured tight to the mill or something shifts during the cut things can go south in a hurry.
I have wasted a few blades but never broken one so far and if a big log was to ever decide to roll off the mill it would possibly result in catastrophic damage.
I know for one that the challenge of taking on a big log is out there and I can see from all the posts we have some very talented professional sawyers on the FF who are willing to share much of the knowledge with others, I am proud to be a member here and appreciate all the advice and expertise that is shared here.
High Five and keep it up you are the BEST!

[mikedurland]

 I use a chainsaw to cut notches along the side of the log so the rollers can pass by. Lowering the deck (if possible) helps too.
I don't have a Woodmizer but I hope this helps.



 


 

[mikedurland]

Sometimes I had to cut notches in the underside of the log so it can sit lower on the mill frame. The picture is when the log has been turned and you can see the notches.
This isn't a very good picture but I hope it helps.