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looking to make new dining room table

Started by sparky1, March 25, 2012, 09:26:48 PM

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sparky1

well I like to dabble in woodworking. I have a lot of good tools.. Minuse the planer, jointer, and a lathe. What im looking to do is make a rustic, yet functional table for my dining room. I have a log cabin, and alot of rustic but nice things in my house. So were trying to keep with that theme.  Im thinking thelumber will be bought from a home depot or lowes.  I was thinking about making it with Cedar, I have made a sofa table and end tables out of cedar. They both turned out great, but im not eating at them everyday.

so if anyone has ideas or plans on one theyve came across or built already, id really appreciate seeing them.
Shaun J

Clam77

If at all possible I'd say you'd be happier starting out with fully dimensional lumber... not the box store stuff.  It'd be more of a challenge without the planer and jointer though. 
Andy

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sparky1

yeah.. thats kinda why i wass gonna go with the box stuff.. also why i was using cedar before, kinda a rustic look
Shaun J

WDH

I made one last summer out of low grade walnut.  Here is a pic.   



 

The legs are three 4/4 boards that are glued up.  They turned out a little less than three inches thick.  With the legs, you make the two outside boards in the three board sandwich the full height (about 29" as most dining tables are about 30" high so you have to allow for the thickness of the top).  The inside board is sectioned to create the mortise that the stretchers go through.  I let the stretchers on each end come out about 3/8" proud on the outside, then chamfered the through tenon for a nice look.  The long middle stretcher also has a through tenon that has a wedge to lock it into place as you can see in the pic.  This is decorative, though, as I glued up the whole assembly including the wedge, so it is not removable or "knock-down".

I thin that an improvement on this design would be to create a slight taper on the inside of all four legs below the point of attachment of the stretchers.  That would give the table a less bulky footprint.

The top boards are simply butted after being jointed, no glue, and there are battens on the underside that each board is screwed to that run perpendicular to the long axis of the top.   If you look closely at the first pic, you can see that the top boards were screwed to the battens from the top, then the screw holes were plugged.  The plugs give the top a nice look.  When the screw hole was in sapwood, I used a heartwood plug to create a contrast and to make the plugs stand out as a feature.



 

The top looks thicker that 3/4", but that is because there is a 3/4" border strip about 2" wide screwed to the underside of the top that goes around all four edges to give it a thicker look.  This table was designed to seat 8 people.  Three on each side and two on the ends. 

The guy that I made it for was going to use it on a covered porch.  When his wife saw it, she moved the old dining table out to the porch and put this one in the dining room  :).
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Magicman

I took these pictures of a table somewhere in Michigan.


 


 


 
It looked like they sawed from the wrong side with a dull blade to intentionally splinter the board ends.  I liked it and I intend to build one similar to this.
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sparky1

I like both of them table idea! they both look fairy easy to make and of good quality!  Giving me ideas!! 8)
Shaun J

WDH

Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

bscoty

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