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bigger logs, not cutting straight

Started by lyle niemi, March 12, 2012, 09:42:14 AM

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lyle niemi

good morning folks, I had just set this old mill up this winter. I had placed it on some matting and got everything straight and level. I started to cut some smaller spruce I had in the yard, I worked out a few bugs on the mill and finnalygot the mill to cut everthing dead on.
I went and got some bigger poplar logs to make some 3x10s. These logs are about 20 plus inches at the but. I started to cut the bigger logs and found that the saw blade wants to cut into the log instead of cutting straight.
I then checked everything out again and had to do some releveling, I re set the lead, did everything I could think of.
I tried the bigger log again and it still was not cutting straight, it was like it had to much lead on the blade.
Could it be that the blade needs re hammering or needs to be replaced. I dont know how long that blade has been on the mill.
Any help would be great. Thanx in advance.....Lyle

Sprucegum

Have you sharpened the blade lately?

How about your feed speed? Might need to go a bit slower in those poplar..

lyle niemi

Quote from: Sprucegum on March 12, 2012, 10:46:05 AM
Have you sharpened the blade lately?

How about your feed speed? Might need to go a bit slower in those poplar..
The blade is sharp, I tried fast and slow feed speed and it does the same thing. Even cutting a thin slab off it wants to pull into the log????? Do the blades lose thier strenght after time????

ALWOL

   It sounds to me like you may have a number of problems. First thing to make sure of would be a firm foundation. If you had to go back and re-level it like you said, after sawing a few small logs, the big logs may be causing it to sink even more.
   Also make sure that the track is perfectly straight. This can be done with a laser or a very fine string. Even a very slight curve in the track, or a sunken spot can cause the saw to pull into or out of the cut.
   And of course, the saw itself may be sprung. Does it show any signs of heat near the eye? Does It have a noticeable cup on the log side?  Check it with a straightedge for verification.
   If it only saws into the log with a very heavy one on the carriage, it will most likely be a problem with the foundation or tracks, but it is best to do a complete diagnosis so that you can correct all of the problems at one time.
   Good luck with the troubleshooting. Hope to hear of it sawing some 40 inchers soon!
      Alan
There's a big difference between staying busy and making money.

beenthere

lyle
Do you have the Lunstrum circular saw handbook? That will help troubleshooting.

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/misc/circsaw.pdf


Also, for some help with pics
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,56957.0.html

Let us know if and where you run into a glitch. Should work for you if .jpg pics are on your computer to begin with.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

steamsawyer

Hey Lyle,

This is something that needs to be taken care of before your blade gets ruined. Dodging from the cut will cause the blade to heat and if not stopped in time it will cause major problems.

If everything checks out to be level and streight, look your blade over very carefully. Check for bent spots, stand over it when it is not running and flop it back and forth, it should return back dished toward the log when you release it. Turn it by hand and look at it in the guides to see if it is runs true. Make sure that the collars are clean and true.  You might want to roll in some new bits so you can start from square one.

One of the most important things is the blade speed.... Your blade is hammered for a specific RPM, make sure it is turning up to that rpm in the cut. It sounds to me like it isn't. Under speed will cause the blade to dive toward the log and overspeed will make it dive away from the log toward the board. Check the rpm at the saw shaft when not sawing then check it while in the cut. Your engine may sound like the governor is working fine but just a little belt slippage will make a big difference in performance.

For an example of a problem with belt slippage look at my youtube videos. There is one where I am splitting some utility poles. The engine had moved and the belt got just a little slack, watch how bad the belt starts flapping and slipping. At this point the blade was losing speed and running toward the log. I had to keep backing out of the cut to make sure it was cutting streight and not heating the blade.

Alan
J. A. Vance circular sawmill, 52" blade, powered by a 70 HP 9 1/2 x 10 James Leffel portable steam engine.

Inside this tired old mans body is just a little boy that wants to go out and play.

Great minds think alike.....  Does your butt itch too?

Alan Rudd
Steam Punk Extraordinaire.

Ron Wenrich

How old are your teeth?  Just because its sharp doesn't mean the teeth are in good shape.  Do you hand file or do you use a grinder?  Do you swage your teeth?  If the angle of the tooth is too heavy, it won't cut good.  If the teeth are filed in an angle, it will pull to that side.  Same goes if you have swaged teeth heavy to one side.  How's the saw guide?  It could be pushing to one side.

My first inclination is to change teeth and see if that straightens out the problem.  I usually use that as the first option for trouble shooting.  It gets rid of any problems that stem from the teeth.  Then, work from there by adjusting lead, etc.

At times, some logs just won't saw well.  Poplar should saw good.  If I have a problem with it digging in, I just touch the offending side with a file.  Do it lightly, and sometimes the saw will stand better. 
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

lyle niemi

Hi guys, I read all the replys and there no doubt I talkin to some experiance on here.
I had an old sawyer come today to have a look at things and he figured that it is the blade. He said the teeth look good and everything seems to be lined up.
I just finished pulling the blade off and tomorrow if I dont have to work I will bring it to a place that hammers blades. This place is about 2 hours away from me, I need to get away from here anyways...lol PS I wanted to take pics but I havnt had the time to figure out how to post them on here yet. I will try again tonight....Lyle

dgdrls

Lyle,

I think some photos would help the gang put you on track

Best
DGDrls

steamsawyer

Them pichers 'd be good.

Just a couple more questions...

Did you try new bits yet?  Any good saw shop will probably replace them first anyway.  If it needs to be re-tensioned what rpm are you shooting for.  What is the diameter of your blade and number of teeth?  And what do you have for power?

You really should not try to guide the blade with a file. The teeth should be filed nice and square. Most of us have tried that at one time or another to get by, but when you replace teeth it will still be wrong.

Don't forget to check those collars.... nice and clean and no lump rust or pits.

Oh, and pretty much everything Ron W said. 

Alan
J. A. Vance circular sawmill, 52" blade, powered by a 70 HP 9 1/2 x 10 James Leffel portable steam engine.

Inside this tired old mans body is just a little boy that wants to go out and play.

Great minds think alike.....  Does your butt itch too?

Alan Rudd
Steam Punk Extraordinaire.

bandmiller2

Money spent on a good sawsmith is money well spent,most will give you good advice if you ask.Small logs you can BS your way through,big logs will tell you if something is wrong. A good well tensioned saw will eliminate alot of variables. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

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