iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

A newbies need for advice

Started by ugajerry, March 01, 2012, 12:18:08 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

ugajerry

Hey yall! My blood gets pumpin everytime I read stuff on this forum so I decided to ask a quick question...I am a Georgia boy born and raised but now living in Dallas, TX.  I have been a custom carpenter for the past six years and I love every second of it. 
I am planning on getting into sawmilling and want to get a bandsaw mill but I know that is way out of my budget for now.  SOO I have decided to try to get a chainsaw and start milling with that...
I have about $6-700 to work with and was wondering if I could get advice on recommended chainsaw, chainsaw size, recommended mill, and if i should just wait and save somemore bc $6-700 is sorta impossible.  ok thanks yall! Be Blessed!
"What the poor want is not aid, but jobs - real jobs, not subsidized ones.  This is the dignity and self-reliance they deserve"

Overlength

Welcome to the forum. I'am new too to forum, but have been reading a while and love it. I have a Woodmizer mill just south of Dallas. Cut Mesquite, Cedar,W Oak,etc. Also my day job is sales/purchasing in the wholesale hardwood lumber buisness. In answer to your question, you are going to need a good chainsaw either way, and would highly suggest a good Stihl pro model. As far as a chainsaw mill, I have no experience with that.
Woodmizer LT30, Solar Kiln 400 bf

beenthere

south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

CalebL

Quote from: ugajerry on March 01, 2012, 12:18:08 PM
Hey yall! My blood gets pumpin everytime I read stuff on this forum so I decided to ask a quick question...I am a Georgia boy born and raised but now living in Dallas, TX.  I have been a custom carpenter for the past six years and I love every second of it. 
I am planning on getting into sawmilling and want to get a bandsaw mill but I know that is way out of my budget for now.  SOO I have decided to try to get a chainsaw and start milling with that...
I have about $6-700 to work with and was wondering if I could get advice on recommended chainsaw, chainsaw size, recommended mill, and if i should just wait and save somemore bc $6-700 is sorta impossible.  ok thanks yall! Be Blessed!

After seeing a chainsaw mill in action recently, I would save up for a small manual mill.  You can find good deals on a used one for a little over $1000. 
2005 LT40 HDD34
2000 Cat 226 Skid Loader

Sixacresand

"Sometimes you can make more hay with less equipment if you just use your head."  Tom, Forestry Forum.  Tenth year with a LT40 Woodmizer,

thecfarm

ugajerry,probably going to need a big saw to really get the job done. What do you plan on sawing for wood? Need beams,boards,2x?
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Jeff

I hate to sound negative, but  I think its better than false hope. You won't get much more than a headache for $1000 on a used band saw sawmill.  I can't address chainsaw mills other than if I were to parrot information given elsewhere on the forum by members that do know. I do know it takes a pretty big chainsaw in good condition to handle milling, as that is some tough duty for a saw. Even a used saw fitting that description is likely to eat your budget before even considering the addition of the chainsaw mill itself.

If you look long and hard enough you might find a used chainsaw mill set up for sale by someone that either traded up to a band or circle mill, or someone that just got wore out running the chainsaw mill.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

ugajerry

wow! thats awesome thank yall for all the advice!  I plan on milling up random trees from connections that I know for my own personal use and maybe a furniture store I work for.  of course that brings up the issue of kilns and drying so I understand that as well...as far as specs...Im looking to do some slabs for tops and maybe some dimensional stuff as well.  I would love to get in contact with some people from the area and just be a body to help and learn as much as I can from them! So what I gather is that it would probably be better to wait...save up...and buy a cheap bandsaw mill to start with?
"What the poor want is not aid, but jobs - real jobs, not subsidized ones.  This is the dignity and self-reliance they deserve"

Magicman

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, ugajerry.  Knowing something about the size of trees in your area, I'll echo the suggestion to save your $$$ and get a band sawmill.  With a chainsaw mill, most of your tree will be chips.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Overlength

Iam cutting up a W oak that was 5'ft diameter, and 50 'ft long. The limbs where 3'ft diameter. I had to qtr saw it with a chainsaw with long bar before putting on mill. Trees don't always get real tall here arond Dallas, but can have fat butt logs, mostly along creek bads and bottoms. But your right Magicman, most are just good for barbeque. I wish I lived in southeast with endless supply of large logs within 30 mi radius when looking for logs.
Woodmizer LT30, Solar Kiln 400 bf

CalebL

Quote from: Jeff on March 01, 2012, 01:53:32 PM
I hate to sound negative, but  I think its better than false hope. You won't get much more than a headache for $1000 on a used band saw sawmill.  I can't address chainsaw mills other than if I were to parrot information given elsewhere on the forum by members that do know. I do know it takes a pretty big chainsaw in good condition to handle milling, as that is some tough duty for a saw. Even a used saw fitting that description is likely to eat your budget before even considering the addition of the chainsaw mill itself.

If you look long and hard enough you might find a used chainsaw mill set up for sale by someone that either traded up to a band or circle mill, or someone that just got wore out running the chainsaw mill.

There was a LT10 Woodmizer that sold for $1200 here last week.  It was in good shape.  There are deals out there.  You just have to find them. 
2005 LT40 HDD34
2000 Cat 226 Skid Loader

terrifictimbersllc

Spend all your money right now getting the best chainsaw (most powerful) you can get, maybe used.  At least a 3.5 cc model. You'll need it anyway.  Don't need any ripping chain.  You can make lumber by sawing freehand with it, just cut off a log square and stand it on end.  Mark it with a marker or chalk line if it helps.  Longer pieces put on notched logs horizontal and do the same.  If it seems like too much work or you don't like the wood you get well enough, then call it quits with chain milling.  By the way more expensive mills won't be less work, just less work per volume of boards you get.   Having an alaskan mill doesn't make it much easier,  just easier to get more uniform smoother wood.  If, however, you like chain milling, then save up about $200 and find an alaskan mill to bolt to the bar to carry this a step further.   I've got one I'll sell you, pm me.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

Overlength

Terrifictimbersllc idea makes good sense. A powerful chainsaw with a chisel tooth blade will make easy work of cutting a few slabs here and there. And you will need it to cut the logs down and buck them anyway. The hardwood is slow growing and tough around here. You'll be glad you got a good chainsaw so your not spending most of your time messing with the chainsaw, and more time cutting wood. New will cost $700 range.  I'm tied up for a month or so, but your welcome to bring a log or two, or thirty over to my mill one weekend and we cut it. Would want to stick to 12" in diameter or larger on the small end. The 16"-24" makes the best lumber. Or a 8" or larger if it is higher $ clear straight Mesquite or Boisdark, Persimmon.
Woodmizer LT30, Solar Kiln 400 bf

mikeb1079

don't listen to all chainsaw mill haters on here  :)  while i certainly agree that a bandsaw is heaven compared to a chainsaw mill and i'll never go back to a csm it's a great way to get started on less money.  i milled well over a thousand board feet with my chainsaw mill working weekends over a month or two.  it ain't that bad.   ;D  look for a used saw of at least 70cc.  the bigger the better, i can't emphasize that enough.  under 70cc it becomes a real struggle.  i'd recommend a used stihl 066, 044 or husky 295/395 etc.  i have seen several of these models for around 500 on craigslist.  buy a used alaskan milling jig and get going!  as others have said you'll need a quality saw anyways so you can always use it later when you inevitably buy your bandsaw or circular sawmill.  plus you can use a larger chainsaw to break down oversize logs. all this wonderful oak and cherry was chainsaw milled. 



oh also, you don't need ripping chain but you get much better results with it. most guys i know of use woodland pro from baileys.
that's why you must play di drum...to blow the big guys mind!
homebuilt 16hp mill
99 wm superhydraulic w/42hp kubota

beenthere

Mike
Don't think I've noted any "chainsaw mill haters" here.
But the economics of your thousand board feet with a chainsaw mill looks to be around a buck a board foot, depending on how you slice and dice it. For that, maybe better to get the logs to a mill and have them sliced and diced for around 30 cents. ;)

I think we are just discussing the various options that ugajerry can consider at the moment. Hopefully that is the way he takes it as well.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

hunterbuild

As a builder myself I would tell you to bite the bullet and get a small manual mill. I bought the Harbor Freight mill new for $1700. I had planed to use it just for my own buildings. I just stared a Job that calls for bug stain paneling inside and ruff sawn pine on the outside.We have to literary re frame the inside( very old store in a tourist town). I'm all so cutting that material. I'm getting all the logs free as the big mills won't take the dead bug trees. They are dry so I can use them as is. This job will more than pay for my mill. I have a chain saw mill with a 084,and love it for slabbing,but will never cut dimensional lumber again with it.

ugajerry

Thank yall for all of the advice! I am definitely going to be joining the mill owning community soon...right now I am engulfing as much reading as I can... I definitely want to try to connect with some of yall that are close and get some up close and personal research in....so thanks!!!
"What the poor want is not aid, but jobs - real jobs, not subsidized ones.  This is the dignity and self-reliance they deserve"

terrifictimbersllc

Went into a craft shop in Port Henry, NY once, and started talking with the owner about sawing wood.   He said CSM'ing is "like getting a Ph.D. by kicking yourself in the b[ehind]".   :) :) :)   .....and his experience was with pine.   :D
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

shortlogger

You may want to try and find a nearby mill owner maybe you could bring him some logs and help mill them on a Saturdy for a discounted price and get some experence in the prosses .My mill came from Nacodoches im sure their are some around there . Or you can come up to Ar and I'll make you a good deal.
1 Corinthians 3:7 So then neither he who plants is anything, nor he who waters, but God who gives the increase . "NKJV"

Dave VH

there are good deals out there.  I've got 300$ in my bandsaw mill, another 300$ in blades, and less than 2 months later it has made me 3 times that.  most of which I am setting aside for bigger and better equipment.  Granted my mill needed a little tlc, but it gets the job done, and didn't cost me a fortune.  Just a simple manual mill.  I'm content for now, I ofcourse want bigger, but don't feel that I deserve it yet, I'll get it.
I cut it twice and it's still too short

jander3

Chainsaw mills work fine, especially if you are after beams and timbers.  And with a chainsaw mill you can cut to any length (30 ft is no problem).   With a chainsaw mill when you start cutting dimensional lumber, you have to be patient, it takes time.  It is also nice if you are younger and stronger, cause a day of chainsaw milling is work.   If you have a little time each night you can make good progress.  If you want to cut out all the lumber you will need for a shed or small cabin in a day, it won't happen with the chainsaw mill.

I started with the chainsaw mill, and eventually, I purchased a TimberKing 1220 because I needed more dimenstional lumber faster.  But there is no way I could have put that money at the beginning.  If I was just after beams and timbers, I probably would not have purchased the TimberKing.

Here is a photo with an Alaskan Mill, this saw is a 97 cc Huskey (used) that I bought from the saw shop I frequent.  I gave $600 for the Husky.  For chainsaw milling, as noted by mikeb1079, you want a bigger saw.  I like the 100 cc; I would not go any smaller than 65cc  (the smaller saws i.e. 35 cc will work, but it is  slower and harder on the saw). If you want to mill faster (and a little rough) get some square ground chain (you will have to learn sharpen square ground).   I normally use a skip chain...balances speed, load on the saw, and smoother cuts.

 


In addition to the chainsaw mill I use this attachment called a micro mill. You can use it with the same saw (shown here with a 65 cc saw) This makes squaring up the lumber very easy and quick.

 


Or with a little practice you cut can beams freehand...just nail a 2" x 4" guide board on the log

 

I love my Timberking, abut I started with a chainsaw and it worked fine. This spring I need to cut a couple of 32 foot beams for the stump ranch to add a porch; these will be cut with the chainsaw mill.  The chainsaw mill allows me to cut to the longer length and I can cut in place so I only need to handle the beams one time.



Thank You Sponsors!