How to identify teeth and bits on a circular mill?

[mikes47jeep]

Hi all

I'm working on an Ireland circular sawmill with a 48" blade, and a spare 48" blade

And I am having a heck of a time identifying what style of teeth and bits my blades have

One seems like a 3 and the other seems to be an F

But F's look a lot like B's and 3's look a lot like 2-1/2's so how do I tell for sure what I have? Are they marked somewhere I'm overlooking?

Thanks,

Mike

[Jeff]

The shanks will be stamped, and that will indicate the bit style.

You can go to Menominee Saw's website and take a closer look at bit styles  HERE

[mikes47jeep]

thanks

ill check out the blades closer tomorow
when i can take them out into good sunlight

[bandmiller2]

Use a wire brush and or fine sandpaper on the shanks,mayby rub some chalk on them.Clean the plate off, many times you can read saw information near the arbor hole.If you could post some close up photos especially with a tape measure near someone here can help. Frank C.

[doghunter]

post us a picture

[mikes47jeep]

ill get some pics tomorow in the sun

[ALWOL]

   All of the B, D, and F style saws take the same bit, only the shanks (holders) are different for each style. The number style bits and shanks vary from 1 1/2 to 3, and both the bits and the shanks are different for each style. The number style bits and shanks are getting kind of hard to find.
   If remove a bit and shank from each saw and clean them up, the shanks should be marked with the style and gauge of the saw plate.

              Alan

[bandmiller2]

Say a little prayer you don't have an old Diston saw they look just like a #3 but have been discontinued for many years,bits and shanks are made of unobtainium. Frank C.

[KyTreeFarmer]

Say a little prayer you don't have an old Diston saw they look just like a #3 but have been discontinued for many years,bits and shanks are made of unobtainium. Frank C.

Frank C
Onobtainium.....now there is a word we need to get into the Forum dictionary...took me a reread or two to get it. Good one Frank.
KTF

[Jeff]

now there is a word we need to get into the Forum dictionary

Done.

[KyTreeFarmer]

Way to go Jeff 8)
KTF

[mikes47jeep]

Ok I got the blades out in daylight, blade #1 is a B x 8 with 40 teeth, and blade #2 is a 3 X 9 with 34 teeth

They both have light surface rust but seem to be in good shape

I would like to replace all the teeth and bits on both blades

Hey I could be spending my money on worse stuff


Mike

[mikes47jeep]

they should be marked if they are "oversize" bits and teeth correct?

[ALWOL]

  Your blade has "bits" which are what you sharpen to cut the wood, and then they will have "shanks" or "holders" to hold the bits in their socket, and to keep the chips from escaping out the side and binding the saw.
  There are oversize shanks available, but all the bits are standard. The shanks should be marked if they are oversize, but that depends on the manufacturer.
  Before you buy new bits or shanks, it would be wise to see the saw spin at the speed you are going to run it, so that you will know if it needs to be hammered or not. If you do replace anything, replace only the bits. If you replace all of the shanks at once, the tension in the saw will be changed, a
nd then it will need to be hammered for sure. If the shanks are worn bad enough to need replacing, it is best to replace only a couple at a time, over several weeks of sawing.
  My favorite bits for general sawing are the Simonds Blue tip, and for winter sawing in hardwoods the Simond Stand-All. Check out Menominee Saw for whatever you need.
    Good luck!

      Alan

[bandmiller2]

Mike,is your mill complete with the engine,so you have an idea what speed the saws are hammered for.?? With a new to you mill its good form to have the saw hammered to your power plant speed and new bits.There are so many variables with a new setup at least you'll know the saw is OK.Ask the sawsmith about the shanks. Frank C.

[markd]

on the subject of identifying the circle mill teeth and bits, My shanks are stamped 4 1/2  x 7, I've emailed a number of saw places and can't get a response from any of them, I don't see any listings for this size anyplace. I need help.

[bandmiller2]

Mark,until someone comes along that knows more than I, 4 1/2 pattern is not common you may have a problem finding them.They were only used on larger diameter saws for large softwoods.Over the years Simonds has bought out competition and disscontinued many patterns of tooth and shanks.Give Menominee saw [see left] a call if anyone knowes they will. Frank C.

[markd]

Frank, thank you for responding, My 50" blade didn't seem that old to me, but since I can't seem to locate shanks for it what you say must be a good guess. I havn't tried Menominee yet, I'll call them today. I'm only missing one shank and it still cuts just fine and I do have another blade, I'm hoping someone out there might have a stash of used shanks and will see this. I'm in Oregon and I cut cedar and fir mostly.  Thanks again

[BBK]

Piper's Saw Shop, Inc. in Central City KY still carries the #3 shanks and bits for my saws. They may have the 4½.

[ALWOL]

   Mark, after reading your post I went to the shop and dug around in my collection of old number style shanks and bits, but all I can find are the sizes up to the 3. Our local supplier does not even keep the 3s, but they can not get the 4 1/2 either. The best chance of finding any used or NOS will be in your area, because a gullet that big was best for softwoods only. Maybe someone out there will see this and fix you up.

     Alan

[markd]

Frank, Hey they had those  shanks at Minominee, got them ordered so we're in business, thanks, And thanks to the rest of you guys for looking for me!! Mark