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Splitter review - Oregon 28 ton

Started by DeerMeadowFarm, February 14, 2012, 01:46:28 PM

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DeerMeadowFarm

I've been using my father's 20 ton splitter now since the 70's and after several rebuilds I was thinking of upgrading. My nephew (who has been using it as well) mentioned to me that he'd like to invest in a new one as well so we decided to go in on one together. We picked an Oregon 28 Ton splitter. It is made by SpeeCo. We picked the Honda for the motor. We got the 4-way wedge with it and the log catcher (which was backordered and being shipped to us). The site is here:http://www.oregonchain.com/pro/products/logsplitters/28TonLogSplitter.htm if you want to check it out.

I used it this weekend to split about a cord of mixed hard wood; white and red oak, cherry, ash, and some maple that was harvested at my buddy's house in Brimfield after the June 2011 tornado came through. I brought it home in log length and I cut a gas tank's worth of wood into lenght, split it all and stack it and then start cutting again.

Here is my review:
Pros:
1. Wicked powerful: I didn't stall it once on any piece I put on there; even with the 4-way!
2. Working height: I think this is the first time I have ever run a splitter without back pain. I was a little sore in the morning, but it was from lifting logs more than operational stance.
3. Log "strippers" work good for removing stuck pieces off the wedge. Slight improvements could be made (see improvements below)
4. 4-way wedge works good. It will need some mods (see improvements below)

Cons:
1. Engine started horribly. I bet I pulled the starter cord 100 times if I pulled it once. The only time it would pop at all was with the choke off. 
2. Engine "surging" at full throttle/no load. Definately worsens after it warms up.
Note: This is not me experience with Honda engines at all so I assume there is something wrong/not set properly.

Improvements:
1. Shelf is a definite "must have item" IMHO. I may want to build in an additional guard on the motor side of the shelf to protect logs from hitting engine when being "stripped".
2. Locking pin/restraining system for 4-way needs improvement or I just need to remove it for transportation; it worked fine without the restraint in operation which was good because I broke the pin supplied with it on my 2nd chunk.
3. Could possibly use a guard on the operator side of the machine as well for the hydraulic fluid filter/lines.
4. Strippers work good except when the chunk is stuck to the wedge but during the splitting process may have tilted upward so that the end of the log rides over the stripper which causes the following problems:
a. On engine side: if it misses the stripper it may allow the chunk to come back and then fall on the engine (shelf may help this)
b. On operator side: If log misses the stripper it may allow the chunk to come back and hit the control lever (this happened to me once during my useage) which could bend the lever.
c. Problem: Strippers are too short (I prefer tall strippers  ;) ) but if I extended them, the 4-way wouldn't work....I need to work on this I think....

Any thoughts about the engine surging?  ???

jamesconley1962


Al_Smith

That surging could be the high speed carb jet is set a tad too lean or its sucking air some place .I assume it's got an adjustable  high speed jet but you never know these days .

I'd think with a new engine none of the afore mentioned should not be but Honda or no they all let a few slip through the cracks so to speak .Stranger  things have happened .

sawguy21

Thanks for the review, we sell them with the Briggs motor but I have never tried one. Honda will have a fixed jet, sounds like it has been sitting for some time with old fuel. Remove the bowl drain then open the fuel shutoff, drain the gas into a can then shut off and replace the drain. If this doesn't solve it the jet and nozzle will need to come out for thorough cleaning.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

bandmiller2

The real killer with a hyd. splitter is lifting the chunks up to it.If you have the option to have a lift by all means get it.If no lift build a deck the same hight as the splitter so you can roll the big chunks on,loading them with whatever machine you have or a ramp. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

thecfarm

I have a hard time starting my Briggs when it's cold,60° or above just a slow pull will get it going. I put a magnetic heater on mine the night before I want to use it. I put a piece of old carpet on top of the motor too. Just to keep it warmer,heat rises. This is a unit 2x3 with a handle on it. Not one of those thin ones. I would have to pull hard like 40 times to get it going. With the heater a few slow pulls and it is up and splitting. I know what you mean about the strippers. I had one piece of wood stick on me. I have just a normal hyd splitter,comes back all by itself when you push the lever all the way back.The piece somehow got around the stripper and was going to hit the lever. I did not dare to stick my hand in there when I saw what was going to happen. I started towards it but stopped myself. So than I had to run all the way around the other side to shut it off. It bent the controls a little and cause a pin hole leak.  >:( I welded it up and have been good sense. I no longer let any logs come back and hit the stripper. This only happens once every 2-3 months though.
Mine is a 27 ton,that tips up for those big ones. I did built a small table on the far side of mine. Does not look like much,but it works.Keeps the wood there so I don't have to walk around it and pick it up.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

DeerMeadowFarm

Quote from: bandmiller2 on February 15, 2012, 07:28:56 AM
The real killer with a hyd. splitter is lifting the chunks up to it.If you have the option to have a lift by all means get it.If no lift build a deck the same hight as the splitter so you can roll the big chunks on,loading them with whatever machine you have or a ramp. Frank C.
This splitter will swing up to the vertical position for the real big stuff, so any excessive lifting is purely my fault. I sometimes work like I'm in my late 20's again.  ;)

Al_Smith

 :D What til you get another 20 ice cream seasons behind you and see how it goes .I'll tell it doesn't get better .

DeerMeadowFarm

Quote from: Al_Smith on February 15, 2012, 09:55:44 PM
:D What til you get another 20 ice cream seasons behind you and see how it goes .I'll tell it doesn't get better .

Yah, getting old sucks Al, but it still beats the alternative!  ;) :D

snowstorm

Quote from: bandmiller2 on February 15, 2012, 07:28:56 AM
The real killer with a hyd. splitter is lifting the chunks up to it.If you have the option to have a lift by all means get it.If no lift build a deck the same hight as the splitter so you can roll the big chunks on,loading them with whatever machine you have or a ramp. Frank C.
i made a crane for a splitter once. some heavy pipe came up and out a ways mounted in another pipe so it could turn some cable and pulleys like a block an tackel you could run out 10' of cable lift the wood onto the splitter. the ram going out lifted the wood so you need something for the wood to set on while you retract the ram

DeerMeadowFarm

Here's an update:

We called the dealer and explained the surging problem.  He first asked how old the initial fuel was.  I explained 2 months and he immediately said that's the issue.  I also explained that we drained it and filled it with fresh gas.  He still says it is a fuel issue and recommends using a high octane, premium fuel and mixing it with a product called "Startron".  I asked him if this was per Honda specs and he said this is what you should do for all small engines.  I proceeded to explain I own two generators with Honda engines and I have never had an issue.  I leave my big generator chock full of fuel that may be as old as 2 years and it runs great.   

I asked him where to bring this for service and he said that we needed to try the fuel first and he would look into how to handle the service.   

I checked Honda's website and all they recommend is 86 octane or higher.  I don't like the idea of putting in a higher octane fuel or this additive, if it does work, I think it would only mask a problem.

Thoughts?

snowstorm


thecfarm

I only use the high octane in all my small motors.I just feel it helps them run better. I have no proof that it helps. Just an idea in my head that it helps. I kinda doubt your problem will go away,but the way the newer engines are made now,it just might work. Good luck. Get that splitter running right.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

bandmiller2

I would at least try what the dealer reccomends.All my small engine and tractor fuel gets marine stabil,seafoam additive and a small jigger of synthetic 2 cyc. oil.All air cooled engines run hot and dry in the head a little synthetic oil is like ice cream to them. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

DeerMeadowFarm

Well, we drained the fuel, spayed the carb clean, mixed up some high octane with the startron stuff per the dealer's suggestion and ran the engine in the barn Friday noight until it got to operating temperature. We cycled the cylinder a dozen times and things seemed better the big test would be actually splitting wood.

Saturday I cut up a HUGE ash that fell on my property from a recent wind storm. Crushed one of my apple trees and also smashed my 10' wide lime spreader. Pictures of the tree to follow in a different thread.

My wife and I took the new splitter, turned it vertical and split one of the huge rounds into manageable chunks. Returned it to horizontal and finished that piece up. Then we went vertical again and tried round number two. This one split a few times and then got hung up on the wedge. What followed was what I initially described in 4b above.

The cylinder retracted pulling the chunk up with it. The wood jumped over the stripper and before we could react, the wood jammed itself against the handle/valve. This forces the lever to remain in the retracted position. The cylinder continued to pull the chunk back up and self destruction was immenent. The nipple between the valve and the cylinder bent as did the hard line to the cylinder's rear port, something gave way and hydrualic fluid spewed everywhere. I shut the engine off but obviously too late.

pith-poor design in my opinion. My father's 40 year old splitter (which I used the remainder of the weekend, my back can vouch for that!) has the valve mounted directly to the cylider as well, however on his the cylinder pushes the wood into the wedge; if it gets stuck, the cylinder pulls away from the wood and you beat it off the wedge with your maul; this happens often.

I think the new splitter works much better. I'm not sure if it's because it is stronger of if pushing the wedge is a better use of the power altogether. However, in that design, the valve should not be mounted anywhere near where a chunk of stuck wood, riding the wedge back, could come in contact with it. A new valve mount will be designed and mounted; pictures to follow.

On the plus side, the engine ran.......better. It still seemed to hunt a little, but it would settle out not like before. This whole "it's the gas " thing just doesn't set right with me though. I have two 1970's cub cadets; one I mow the lawn with and the other I use to mow around our Christmas trees. I put them away at the end of the season with whatever gas is left in the tank. Come spring, I will most likely need to charge the batteries, but for fuel, I'll just top off the tank and they'll run fine. I have a generator that I fire up once a year to make sure it'll start. It does and it runs great with whatever gas is left in it from the previous time.

thecfarm

I had the same thing happened to me with the wood getting stuck on the wedge.But I had mine for probably 5-6 years before it happened to me. I just posted about that on here. But had it only happened like 2-3 times since. I've had the splitter for 12 years now. I saw it do the same thing. Mine has the auto return when I push the lever back. I was going to stick my hand between the wood and the lever. :o I stopped myself and ran to the other side to shut it off. But it bent the nipple on the ram before I got to the switch. Bent the line some too. I was able to weld the small leak. Was just a pin hole. I was some lucky. Yes,it is a bad design.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

beenthere

Don't these models have the "scraper" that blocks the wood from returning with the wedge?
The advertising brochures show it, but maybe it isn't adjusted right.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

DeerMeadowFarm

Yes. Oregon calls these "strippers" and there is one on eother side of the wedge. Problem is they are only a few inches high (which allows a 4-way wedge to be used) and the wood chunk "jumped" over it. Another part of the problem is the stripper is a "U" shaped bent peice of steel with the bottom of the "U" facing towards the wood. Being rounded, I think, makes it easier for the wood to skip over the stripper. If the open ends of the "U" were facing forward, maybe the wood would dig in?

Al_Smith

There's pros' and cons' to log lifters just like multiple 4 and 6 way wedges .
I suppose for some they're the cats meow .However in my case on occasion it's 3. 5 -4 foot oak rounds .Now how pray tell does one load something like that excepting a skid loader or something?

For me the tip up works best because you can roll such a round where for one person it's impossible to other wise lift or fiddle around with a log loader for ten minutes then roll half of it off on your foot which would ruin your day .Like every thing else though different strokes for different folks .

thecfarm

Beenthere,next time you go where they sell these homeowners splitters take your tape measure and measure the distance from the stripper to the handle. Lets say the wedge gets gets stuck into the log at 18 inches. When it comes back and hits the stripper the stripper is only 8 inches long and the handle is about 4 inches behind that. That is only 12 inches and still need 6 more to go. That's why it hits the handle. If I did not take mine off, I would take a picture. took it right off as soon as I bent by handle. I naively thought it was a good idea.  ::) Supposedly the wood should open up but it just stayed together and the stripper just guided it right towards the handle.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

beenthere

Well, bottom line is I wouldn't want have a splitter that the wedge moves.

If I had one, then I'd do something to avoid the problem of wiping out the controls with a returning block of stuck wood.  ;)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

John Mc

Quote from: beenthere on February 22, 2012, 10:35:19 AM
Well, bottom line is I wouldn't want have a splitter that the wedge moves.

Every splitter I've seen that does horizontal and vertical splitting has a moving wedge. If it had a fixed wedge, you'd be trying to push the split pieces into the ground when splitting vertically.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

beenthere

south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

John Mc

Mine is horiz/Vert and has a moving wedge. I bought it because the horizontal-only model (with a fixed wedge) sat way too low to the ground for my taste. The height of the H/V model works out perfectly for me -- though I do wish the wedge was on the fixed end
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

thecfarm

Bottom line is how does a person get a piece of wood up onto a splitter that is 3 feet across? Yes I have a loader,but i would not want to be next to it when it splits in half. Now if I had enough power for a 4 or 6 way splitter that would be different. Some of us split some big wood. I just hate to see that big stuff go to waste. I've burned dead wood all winter,did it just about all last winter too.Many ways of getting the job done. We all can't,don't have the same tools for the same job,but the job still gets done. I know of the ways to put a lift table on the side and so on.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

DeerMeadowFarm

Quote from: beenthere on February 22, 2012, 10:35:19 AM
Well, bottom line is I wouldn't want have a splitter that the wedge moves.

As others have said, the wedge has to move on the machines that go vertical.

Quote from: beenthere on February 22, 2012, 10:35:19 AM
If I had one, then I'd do something to avoid the problem of wiping out the controls with a returning block of stuck wood.  ;)
Yah, we're working on that design improvement. Unfortunately, it happened before I was aware of the severity of the problem.  ;)

So, I dropped the valve off to my nephew and the bent hard line this morning. He'll try to get the bent nipple out of the valve (I had it in a vice, with a 3' length of square tubing over the wrench reefing on it and all I was able to do was to pull my bench away from the wall). He'll also make up a new line. We'll see how it goes from there. I have a couple of ideas on how to protect the valve or relocate it....we'll see.

beenthere

Quote from: thecfarm on February 23, 2012, 07:03:44 AM
Bottom line is how does a person get a piece of wood up onto a splitter that is 3 feet across? ...........

For the blocks that are too large to handle before and after splitting, I just run another chainsaw cut or two that will break them down into halves or quarters. Takes but little extra time with the saw compared to wrestling with the large pieces.

For height, I just use car ramps to wheel the splitter wheels up onto for comfortable working height. Put a longer pipe on the front wheel under the tongue to raise that end.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

thecfarm

 Probably works good when you only have 2-3 pieces.  ;) 
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

DeerMeadowFarm

Met my nephew for coffee this morning. His mec hanic got the nipple out; it was definately split. I'll reassemble it tonight and give it a try. Big test will be Sunday when I get back to the wood pile. The log catcher shelf came in as well. I installed that last night. At first glance I was disapointed...kind of flimsy looking. It seems more rugged now that it's mounted. Again; we'll see....

DeerMeadowFarm

Sorry for the long spell between updates; a lot has happened. First of all on the good side; I left off my last post by saying the log shelf looked flimsy; it still looks flimsy but works remarkably well; no issues!
Now for the bad stuff: I noticed a puddle of hydraulic fluid under the machine last spring. It took a long time to figure out where the leak was but eventually we determined that it was coming from the tank itself where the axle stubs are welded to it. Went around with Oregon a bit before given the OK to bring it to a local authorized repair shop. There it sat most of the summer waiting for a new tank. The dealer was also an authorized Honda repair shop so they tinkered with the motor and got that running a lot better. Tank was repaired and my nephew took it home late summer and used it through the fall/early winter. I took the splitter back late winter and used it for splitting about 6 more cord.

My brother had some trees dropped in his yard so my nephew and I went over there to cut and split them up. They were some huge oaks; a good 30" at the butt. We split up a bunch before tackling some of the big rounds. My nephew and I had to wrestle them onto the foot of the splitter (vertical postion) and had to kind of hold it in place while my brother ran the valve. Well, it happened again; the wood got stuck; jumped over the strippers and broke the valve; not just the nipple this time. :(

So, we got a new valve and put it on. My nephew manages a shop that sells and services lift booms for trucks (Altec). He asked Oregon what the relief on the valve should be set at and they told him that it should be set to max. Seemed weird to him, but OK. Once repaired, he went back to my brother's house by himself (I had other commitments so I couldn't go) He called me about 10:00, said he was splitting a knarly piece and the cylinder folded in half.

So...... we've hit the valve twice; once with not too much of a repair, but the second time broke it. $175 for the new valve. Hydraulic tank sprung a leak; fixed under warranty but had to go without it for most of the summer. Now we just bent a cylinder. $380 to replace it. Overall, I am not really too happy with the splitter. My plan is to build my own. Horizontal style with a log lift.

Tam-i-am

DeerMeadowFarm

we would love for you to check out our splitter.  One of our friends lives on Coy Hill Rd in your town and borrows our processor and/or splitter.
In a few weekends he is able to do his wood for the year.  If you are interested in seeing the Firewoodinator let me know and I can get you his number so the two of you can make plans.

Tam I am
Get Stuff Moving Today!  www.bluecreeper.com  www.facebook.com/Bluecreeper

Al_Smith

From my own observation on splitters and other mass produced pieces of equipment often times it appears to me the welding while looking good is substandard .

For example most are done with automatic wire welders and they often leave craters at the ends of the welds which might not seem to be much for the inexperianced .They will however crack starting from that crater .Often times the welds are undercut which also is a cause for failure .

It's my belief that often times it seems in the basic design they strived to make the piece of equipment appealing to the eye but failed to make it structually as sound as they should have .

thecfarm

Sorry to hear of your trouble with your splitter. Mine,so far,got my fingers crossed now,has not break or leaked. Mine is just about like yours. I have really worked mine too.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Al_Smith

Well now think about this .I'm not casting espersions but you have to give it some thought on a stuck piece .Don't just flip it on detent return and walk away from it .

DeerMeadowFarm

Hi Al, no we didn't just set the valve at detent and walk away. The problem is, when its stuck and riding back with the wedge, as careful as you are trying to be, you have just a fraction of a second to react once it gets to the strippers. You are hoping the strippers dislodge the wood, which they do most of the time. The trouble is when it jumps the strippers, then, you are in trouble, often so fast that you break something. I delivered the new cylinder to my nephews house yesterday. He has an idea to mount the valve differently. In addition, I told him we are going to increase the height of the strippers which, unfortunately, will make the 4-way unusable.

Al_Smith

I had to take a peek at that model on the net .I see part of the problem and that is the valve setting off center of the cylinder .

What would happen say if you reversed the valve to the rear of the cylinder and replumbed it ?

DeerMeadowFarm

We were thinking that Al, but it just puts you so far away from the work, y'know...?

Oliver1655

Earlier your mentioned "Beating stuck pieces off of fixed wedges".  Rather than that method, you might try:
     - Leave the push sled next to the round.
     - Wrap a length of chain around the wood & the push sled making sure it is NOT around the wedge.  (I have a 10' length of 1/4" chain I keep handy for this use.)
     - Retract the cylinder & it will easily pull the wood block free.   8)

You should also be able to use this idea with splitters where the wedge is on the cylinder.  This should eliminate the risk of the wood block damaging the splitter as the wood block will stay away from the engine/valve/hydraulics.

John
John

Stihl S-08s (x2), Stihl S10 (x2), Jonsered CS2139T, Husqvarna 338XPT California, Poulan Microvibe XXV, Poulan WoodShark, Poulan Pro 42cc, McCulloch Mini-Mac 6 (x2), Van Ruder Hydraulic Tractor Chainsaw

Al_Smith

I can't figure out why the "wings" didn't catch the piece .Evidently they aren't large enough or something .

DeerMeadowFarm

Quote from: Al_Smith on June 19, 2013, 06:46:43 PM
I can't figure out why the "wings" didn't catch the piece .Evidently they aren't large enough or something .
That's it in a nutshell Al. So this is how it misses, or as I say, "jumps" the wings. Picture the splitter in the vertical position. Remember, you are using it vertically because the piece is too heavy to lift. Let's say it's 3' in diameter which is about what we had, maybe less, but 3' is a nice round number. So the wedge is about 6" or 1/2' tall, so with the log as tight to the beam as you can get it, the wedge is only going through 1/6 of the diameter (36"/6") so it has the ablility to go through the piece, but because it's only hitting 1/6 of the diameter, it doesn't split and now it's stuck to the wedge. So, you start to back it up and hope the wings strip it because beating a 2' long, 3' diameter log off the wedge is no joke, and many times it does. But picture the log riding up with the wedge. It's only being held by 1/6th it's diameter so gravity kicks in and it starts to tip and that tip is away from the wedge, the beam and of course the wings so it pops over the wings and now you have a short window of time to stop it before it starts to self destruct. After I did it the first time, I had never done it again and since I explained it to my nephew, neither did he. But because the wood was so big and the two of us were trying to do the positioning, my brother was running the lever and he wasn't aware of the problem and he didn't react quick enough. Does that make sense?

beenthere

Makes sense.
Now, instead of trying to split those big 'uns, hit 'em with one more chainsaw cut to at least cut them in half across the middle diameter.
If still too big to handle, one or two more saw cuts will do the trick.

And, IMO, no one that doesn't have his/her hands on the log being split, operates the control lever.
They get a bug up their nose, or something else distracts them, and they don't pay attention to what they are doing as after awhile it becomes so automatic to push and pull, push and pull the lever.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Al_Smith

If the "strippers " are the problem ,revamp them so they work .Fact that is one of the items I need to address on my home built among others .BTW hindsight is always 20/20 when you build something . :D

thecfarm

Maybe the poor guy has a pile like this to split.



 

There is a yard stick and hat for size. Would be a lot of "hitting" going on with this pile. :(
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

John Mc

Is there a way to add a little "spike" to the stripper wings that would grab the log and prevent it from riding over them when the cylinder retracts?  You'd have to think about the geometry of the spike a bit - what angle to aim it for the best grab, and what shape to make it so the spike didn't get stuck in the log (though I guess the wedge could push it back off again?)
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

DeerMeadowFarm



Quote from: beenthere on June 20, 2013, 05:03:12 PM
And, IMO, no one that doesn't have his/her hands on the log being split, operates the control lever.

Yup, this is my general rule as well, but my brother thought he was helping and my nephew and I were wrestling with the logs.....not a good excuse I know, but it's the only one I have.... :(

Quote from: Al_Smith on June 20, 2013, 06:34:50 PM
If the "strippers " are the problem ,revamp them so they work .

Yes, we are looking to modify them. The problem is we give up our 4-way wedge capability, which is fine by me.

Quote from: thecfarm on June 20, 2013, 10:33:09 PM
Maybe the poor guy has a pile like this to split.

There is a yard stick and hat for size. Would be a lot of "hitting" going on with this pile. :(

That's the size we were lifting onto the splitter; the ones we went verticle with were a lot bigger!

Quote from: John Mc on June 24, 2013, 09:35:37 AM
Is there a way to add a little "spike" to the stripper wings that would grab the log and prevent it from riding over them when the cylinder retracts?  You'd have to think about the geometry of the spike a bit - what angle to aim it for the best grab, and what shape to make it so the spike didn't get stuck in the log (though I guess the wedge could push it back off again?)
I like this train of thought....definately something we weren't thinking of and may work!

John Mc

Quote from: DeerMeadowFarm on June 26, 2013, 11:43:13 AM
Quote from: John Mc on June 24, 2013, 09:35:37 AM
Is there a way to add a little "spike" to the stripper wings that would grab the log and prevent it from riding over them when the cylinder retracts?  You'd have to think about the geometry of the spike a bit - what angle to aim it for the best grab, and what shape to make it so the spike didn't get stuck in the log (though I guess the wedge could push it back off again?)
I like this train of thought....definitely something we weren't thinking of and may work!

I wonder if one or two spikes something like what is on the end of a Logrite Cant Hook or Peavey might do it?  They grab well, but aren't tough to get the log back off of.  The downside of this is now you've got something to impale yourself on while you are splitting.  Maybe since they're back on the strippers, they wouldn't be in your way and grabbing you?
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

DeerMeadowFarm

John - Yah...not impaling myself is pretty high on my list of things make sure I do! I'll have to look at the strippers closer and re-think what can be done. Good news is my nephew and I split a truckload yesterday and didn't break the splitter (other than bending the log tray/cradle).

Logging logginglogging

Quote from: thecfarm on February 22, 2012, 07:43:17 AM
Beenthere,next time you go where they sell these homeowners splitters take your tape measure and measure the distance from the stripper to the handle. Lets say the wedge gets gets stuck into the log at 18 inches. When it comes back and hits the stripper the stripper is only 8 inches long and the handle is about 4 inches behind that. That is only 12 inches and still need 6 more to go. That's why it hits the handle. If I did not take mine off, I would take a picture. took it right off as soon as I bent by handle. I naively thought it was a good idea.  ::) Supposedly the wood should open up but it just stayed together and the stripper just guided it right towards the handle.

No we don't have a 4 way wedge... but on my fathers troy built, we have never ad a problem with the stripper plates not taking the wood off. However its rare for the wood to get stuck as well. Maybe the wedge need sharpening if its sticking.

Logging logginglogging

Quote from: thecfarm on June 20, 2013, 10:33:09 PM
Maybe the poor guy has a pile like this to split.



 

There is a yard stick and hat for size. Would be a lot of "hitting" going on with this pile. :(


Actually nearly all the stuff I have this year is that darn big and some bigger.....

when I am dealing with this ... I always say ...I am young now, but I do say ill haft get smaller stuff when I am older

Oliver1655

Another option I thought of is to wrap a chain around the log & the beam towards the end furthest from the wedge so when you are trying to strip it off the wedge it can not tip the log up.

John
John

Stihl S-08s (x2), Stihl S10 (x2), Jonsered CS2139T, Husqvarna 338XPT California, Poulan Microvibe XXV, Poulan WoodShark, Poulan Pro 42cc, McCulloch Mini-Mac 6 (x2), Van Ruder Hydraulic Tractor Chainsaw

DeerMeadowFarm


Yoopersaw

I run ten different small engines around here and they all get premium, non ethanol gas.  I don't add anything to the gas and things run great.

Yoopersaw

I just came in from my garage and when out there, my Honda 3.5 h.p. fired up on the first pull after sitting for since last summer with gas in in.  I miscounted also, I have 14 small engines that I run with non- ethanol prem. gas.

labdad

I don't have them anymore and don't like the idea of the strippers or whatever they are called. I think to look at them they look good but knowing how hydraulics are if the wood is stuck its not stopping.  I took mine off and if I have struck wood I stop and give it a rap with a 2# sledge.
My equipment
Husky 50 Rancher
Husky 359
Brave 26 ton splitter

Ordinary men have excuses
Extraordinary men have solutions

WSD

Quote from: Yoopersaw on August 19, 2013, 11:29:34 AM
I run ten different small engines around here and they all get premium, non ethanol gas.  I don't add anything to the gas and things run great.

I second this.  If you can get that non ethanol fuel is worth the extra cost in any small engine.

DDobbs

So how is this splitter doing now?

They have some real good sales going on now.

I have not went an looked at one yet but with the price .

Might be worth the trip.


Dave
EZ Boardwalk 40
Ez Boradwalk Jr.sold 11/7/2015
Stihl 650 Stihl 290

DeerMeadowFarm

My nephew has had it all winter. I just talked to him this weekend and so far he's had no issues.

DDobbs

Thanks for the reply.


Funny how that happens. My old one needed GPS  tracking....lol
But it always made it back home.

Dave
EZ Boardwalk 40
Ez Boradwalk Jr.sold 11/7/2015
Stihl 650 Stihl 290

DeerMeadowFarm

Well, my nephew and I bought it together so I guess it's only right that he gets to use it once in a while... ;)

It's a good thing he did go in on it with me or I'd had junked it a while back. He's the one that picked it out so I think he felt the need to work on it harder...

Freedom6178

I've been running the non-ethanol premium fuel in my small engines as well, no issues here ether.. I leave my mower sit all winter with what ever is in the tank next spring it all ways starts right up..
------Freedom6178------


Prepare for the unknown by studying how others in the past have coped with the unforeseeable and the unpredictable.
George S. Patton


'12 Mustang, '03 F-250 SD 4x4, Stihl Farm Boss 18"bar, '09 Arctic Cat 550 TRV EFI

DeerMeadowFarm

Got the splitter back from my nephew as he had it over the winter. The hydrualic tank (2nd one, 1st one was replaced under warranty) is leaking again. I can't stand this splitter.....  >:(

beenthere

Leaking at a seam, or at a fitting?

south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

DeerMeadowFarm

Weld where they attach the stub axles to the built in hydrualic tank. Same place (might be the opposite side?) as last time.  :(

dvrwjh

Check out the Canadian built Split-Fire.   www.split-fire.com
Best wood splitter I have ever used.   
The two way split action can really up the production. The lift table is a huge back saver.
great machines.
I have only ever had to change the oil in the honda motor in 6 years of use.
I just upgraded to a larger custom model this season. very good investment for the firewood biz.
It will split just about anything you can load on it.
My supplier has given me logs that he can't sell easy. 48" diameter. I wish I had pics to post of that.
2014 Cord King M 2030 Wood Processor
2013 Ford F 550 Dump truck, Switch N Go System
2008 Ford F 350
2014 Kubota L45 TLB
2014 Split-Fire HT 3265 Custom Splitter
2009 6x10' 5T dump trailer
2014 20'  7T float trailer
Stihl M660
Stihl M260
Stihl  AV 032, 034.

glassman_48

deermeadowfarm,
My local lawnmower, chainsaw dealer is a good friend of mine.  They recommend at least midgrade fuel if not premium and they have a fuel additive right on their shelf probably similar to the startron mentioned here.  I started using it in all my small engines I have around the house and I seem to notice a slight difference in performance,,,,,,,,,maybe my imagination but I trust my dealer.   good luck,,,,,,,,,,ed

thecfarm

I'm not saying it helps,but I use the highest grade I can buy at the local gas station in all my small motors.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

DeerMeadowFarm

Hydraulic tank was repaired by the students at my nephew's school (he teaches at a vocational school now) and hasn't leaked. But now the cylinder (2nd one) leaks. We bought a kit to replace the seals. We'll see how this goes. The engine is back to hunting all the time at idle again. The good news is that it doesn't seem to break down all the time, only when we want to use it. This is by far, the worst peice of power equipment I've ever owned.

DeerMeadowFarm

One year later: the cylinder is leaking again.

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