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Saw Gremlins

Started by DextorDee, February 11, 2004, 10:28:48 AM

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DextorDee

Think I got saw gremlins or what ever it is that changes the adjustments on my mill.
Tried to saw two logs Saturday, one was red cedar; the other was pine with lots of knots.
Lots of wavy boards.
According to the book and the Mfg. the blade should slide across the top of the cant at the end of a cut without lifting the head.
Now I have to lift the head so the blade will clear the cant, the blade is dropping at the end of the cut.

I'm gonna try to figure it out this weekend if weather permits.
Think maybe this has something to do with these  >:(blade guides :-X
The old two on top two on the bottom one in the back roller bearings.  ??? sounds like a country song ::)
HELP
Thanks for any help or ideas ..
Ken
Ken
KI4BMW
North East Georgia

raycon

The set on my band may contact the cant on the way back. I could back it up over the log I suppose  but I don't , I bump up a inch and then return.
If I released the drive clutch then yes I could back the head back over but I still don't.  

Check the band tension and bunk alignment to band. Maybe you need to slow down going through the knots or use water. If I feed to fast through knots on occassion I can watch the band dive away from the guides--to me it usually indicates time to change the band or I'm feeding to fast.

Lot of stuff..

music_boy

WOW, I think can help with this one ;D Neebie ain't been sawin long (me :D) had that happen too. I found two things that contributed to this.
One, was my blade was dullish and the blade wanted to come out of the log high making the end of the cant larger and the blade needed to be raised up to return. That, I think, was my main problem. I noticed on pine with knots and hickory. Changed the blade and slowed down the feed on the hickory and corrected the problem. I also suspect, that cant stress played a roll in this as well (#2)but the more experiened faction should chime in here on that one.
Hope I'm right.
I'll work on that song but that would be a tough one. I'll drink on it
       :D :D :D :D
Rick
It's not how much YOU love, it is how much you ARE loved that matters. (Wizard of OZ)

woodmills1

When mine gets to waving I change blade and clean the junk from the log face.  Most times it was a dull blade and a new one and some feed speed slow down does it.  Beware though there are a few logs out there that really don't want to be cut. :D
James Mills,Lovely wife,collect old tools,vacuuming fool,36 bdft/hr,oak paper cutter,ebonic yooper rapper nauga seller, Blue Ox? its not fast, 2 cat family, LT70,edger, 375 bd ft/hr, we like Bob,free heat,no oil 12 years,big splitter, baked stuffed lobster, still cuttin the logs dere IAM

MrMoo

Dextor,
I'd start by changing the blade.
Back when I was running the same machine as you have I was able to almost always back the head over the cant without raising it. As you know the blade is angled 1/2 degree to allow that.
When it didn't go back though I found that the end of the cant which extended beyond the last cross bunk was getting deflected downward during the end of the cut and springing back after the end of the cut. I even had this problem with a new sharp blade. I ended up figuring out that the mill was sagging a bit in the middle and as I ended the cut I was going up hill so to speak and that caused the deflection. This problem was most apparent on white pine for some reason. I corrected this by running a string across the bed & trueing up the mill to take the sag out in the middle. I also made up a moveable bunk that could be suspended anywhere between the long frame members. I used to place this about 2-3" away from the end of the cant so it could not be deflected. After that I never had the problem unless I had a dull blade.
Not sure if you are experiencing any of this but hopefully you can find the answer.
Mike

rbarshaw

I had a problem with my guides when the blade got dull it would dive or rise and hit a metal piece on the guide and remove the set all along one side of the blade :o. Then the problems realy would start. A blade won't cut well at all when the teeth are set only on one side. This was caused by a loose part on the guides :o.
Been doing so much with so little for so long I can now do anything with nothing, except help from y'all!
By the way rbarshaw is short for Robert Barshaw.
My Second Mill Is Shopbuilt 64HP,37" wheels, still a work in progress.

DextorDee

Thanks for the input guys.

MrMoo, that sagging bed has been a problem, I got some really crazy boards one time before I figured that one out.
I can't seem to tighten the bolts tight enough to hold the legs in one place, over time they slip . Got me a couple of jacks in the middle that helps.  ::) Movable bunk sounds like a good idea, don't got a picture do ya? Maybe I can make me one ,I think Bill makes one for about $60.00 don't know what the shipping would be.
Anyway , changed the top bearings out, that helped with the blade dropping. Most of my problems with uneven boards ,wavy boards etc. has been guide bearings maybe I'm doin something wrong.  :-[ Blade is cutting good ,guess I'll change and see if that helps.
Another question, will leaving the blade tension on cause flat spots on the tires? (using trailers tires)
Also ,should these tires be balanced? One of them seems to bounce a little, don't know what kind of problem this would cause if any.

rbarshaw , been lookin at the pics of the mill ya building pretty COOL. Keep us updated .

music_boy , how's that song coming along?

Don't know what I would do without this forum.
Thanks again
Ken
Ken
KI4BMW
North East Georgia

Tom

If your blade is dropping off of the end of the cant, it is rising in the cut and it usually will do that within a few inches of the beginning of the cut and hold consistantly to the end.   You will get fairly even boards but the beginning few inches of the board will appear bent down.

Look for a dull blade, loose tension, set off on one side of the blade.(usually lost set on the bottom) or blade guide not square with the mill.

Usually changing the blade will fix the problem but check tension before you do.

I just came back from Suffolk Machinery's web page because I was going to suggest that you look at their trouble shooting chart.  They have taken it off of the page and it looks like they are going to market the information in a video.

I guess everybody is selling everything now. That will make the information you volunteer to the forum just that much more important.

Fla._Deadheader

  I had the tire shop balance our tires after mounting them. There is still a very slight ?? whatever, in the idle side. I don't worry about it. The roller guide keeps the blade from acting up and once into the log, GO for it!!!

  Are your tires bald??? I used new tires and if I did it again, I would have most of the tires shaved, leaving about 1/4" of tread rib in the center for the blade to run on. The rest is not needed and if the tread is soft, it COULD allow the blade to compress the rib and slip a mite.  We use low tension and GO FOR IT  ;D ;D :D :D
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

wiam

The tires I put on my homemade are not completely bald but they will not pass state inspection.  When I had them balanced the guy looked at them funny and was very happy when I said I was not going to run them on the road.

I have been told to let blade tension off from day to day or when mill sets longer.  This is to take pressure off bearings.  I don't know but it seemed to make sense to me.  This also lets me take the blade in out of the weather.

Will

Fla._Deadheader

  Relieving tension on the bearings is the last thing I worry about. The trailer holds hundreds of #'s, right???

  I relieve tension because of stress on the blade and the frame, same as a musical instrument, only not nearly so severe. I agree with Wiam, it just makes sense. WE USUALLY take the blade off every night, it is USUALLY dull, but, not always.

  What Brand Blade ya runnin???
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

DextorDee

Fla_Dh
Tires still look new . I bought the mill a year ago last Nov.
The blades I'm using are Red Streak? from Cooks.
Have used Lenox and some from Suffolk. Didn't like the latter to much.
This blade is making alot rake marks across the board I guess that should tell me something. If the weather permits gonna change it this weekend. (rain ,rain and more rain)
Blade tension is sorta hit and miss, feel and go kinda thang.
I tighten till it feels flush in the tread. ???(mfg. instructions) ::)

Tom, I was gonna try adjusting according to Suffolk instructions , I didn't like the idea of the loose blade flutter thing. I was afraid the blade would come off, thats a real bad sound. Throwed a blade off one time using to much oil in the lub. Went back to soap and water. :)
I need me one those mills that ain't got so much manual stuff on it.
I hope its warm in Florida ,sho is cold up here in N.GA.
God Bless

Thanks again for the replys
Ken



Ken
KI4BMW
North East Georgia

MrMoo

Ken,
I don't have a picture of the moveable bunk. Bill made the one I had. If I recall he used the 1.25" square tubing that is on top of your cross bunks. He had 2 pieces one that went across the mill but was a tad shorter than the rest of the cross bunks. That way it fit between the angle iron frame members. At each end he welded a flat piece of steel the same width as the tubing and about 3-4" long. Those pieces sat on the angle iron. On top of the square tubing was another piece of square tubing exactly the same as what you have on your cross bunks.

Concerning the other problem you mentioned with not being able to tighten the T handles on the handles on the legs enough. I never used them for that very reason. I got some hardened stainless steel 5/16" dowel pins & put them in the crossholes. Then you have to shim the feet on the legs to get the mill trued up.

Mike

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