Woodmaster C Blades

[shortlogger]

Has anyone used the woodmaster C band blades ? I can get them right at $10 per blade cheaper than the logmaster blades I am using now if I buy 11 or more at a time it sounds to good to be true , wondering about the quality shure would be nice to save that much on blades.

[WH_Conley]

I have used them and had no problems. I would not hesitate to use them again.

[stumpy]

I own about 40 blades and at least 30 of them are woodmaster C.  Never had a problem with them.  Oh yea, the first time I bought one I put it on the mill and started a cut.  It didn't even cut in fact it started to smoke.  I then realized, they ship them turned inside out.(why I don't know)  Flipped it over and never had a problem.

[LOGDOG]

I tried one box. Never went back. 

[ladylake]

Hey Logdog.  You never went back to you old blades or never bought any more woodmaster c. I'm confused like usual.   Steve

[LOGDOG]

I never bought any more Woodmaster blades after that box. They didn't resharpen well. Shortlived ....cracked, and snapped. On the other hand, both Woodmizer and Timber Wolf/Suffolk saw blades were awesome and I could get an unreal amount of sharpenings out of them. Price and cost are two different things. ;)

[WH_Conley]

I guess that is where everybody's circumstances are different. On the sharpening, the profile is different, I use WM cam, can't do a full profile sharpening the first couple of times. If I try it burns the tips.

I use WM, Timber Wolf , Cook's. I would put the Woodmaster in the next tier simply because of the sharpening.

I got a box of blades a few years ago and the set in the garage a few months because I was working a public job, got laid off and started sawing again. Never took the first blade off because it was dull. They broke, none in the weld. I don't know what brand they were as the dealer had put his own name on them. He would not make them good. He is out of business.

Forgive the ramble. LOGDOG, might want to try them again. Just to make sure it wasn't a bad batch. On the other hand, if your are satisfied, why change?

[LOGDOG]

It's possible I got a bad batch or maybe they changed their steel recipe since I bought them. It's been many, many years. But like WH_Conley says, "If you're satisfied, why change?".

I got the impression that Woodmaster's blades may be geared to run in a pallet operation on resaws with narrow, clean cants running through them. Run them for "X" amount of time, they break, throw them away, put a new one on. Disposable like ...

I have to say I learned the most about blade dynamics from Timber Wolf/Suffolk even though I love WoodMizer as a company, their mills and their blades. That said, I've got probably 10 boxes of Woodmizer blades on hand and no Timber Wolf's on hand, nor have I ordered any in a good long while.

WoodMizer fixed a hole in their blade setups when they added the 4,7 and 9 degree hook angles. I gladly pay the extra for the performance I get.

[LeeB]

I tcould also have been something to do with where you got them. I got some from one dealer a couple of times that were troublesome. Others were ok. Haven't used any in many years though. Could be thier quality is better now. I'm pretty sure that is the brand Tom used to use on his Baker mill.

[LOGDOG]

I thought Tom used Monks blades ...Moksforsager or something like that? I know that spelling has to be wrong.

[LeeB]

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,3283.msg42859.html#msg42859

Just remebered this post was the reason I say he used them.

[LOGDOG]

I must be thinking of someone else then....

[Nomad]

     Later, I'm pretty sure Tom switched to Simond's Red Streaks.

[wlf89]

thats what im using now, and having trouble with them breaking after 2 maybe 3 sharpenings. i think this batch is from 08.

[Ludo]

I cut a lot of "urban" lumber so I hit a lot of metal.  Due to the low cost I only use Woodmaster "C" blades.  The price is low enough that I do not resharpen them.  I would say that 3 out of 4 are ruined by metal. If you feed real slow they go through nails with out too much problem.  I pay about 16 shipped for a 1.5"x 12' blade and it runs about $13 shipped to resharpen them.  I run either liquid soap with water (hard wood) or Pine-sol and water (soft wood) as a coolant.  If I am careful and the logs are power washed with no metal, I can cut 500-600 linear feet of hard wood before the blades starts to slow enough to warrant a change.

[Migal]

I guess with that last statement tells me a power washer idea I've had will be a good investment for my new mill!

[bandmiller2]

Does anyone here know about the band industry,how many steel suppliers make bandstock est. Mayby it all comes from a couple of mills.Woodmizer makes their own,probibly cut the teeth set and induction harden bandstock they buy bulk.Are bands  air hardening or must they be quenched.Wish I still had my contacts at Simonds.I've had good service from all the bands I've tried some just seem to live a little longer. Frank C.

[buildthisfixthat]

lenox has a plant in springfield mas s ,dont know where they have the coil stock made ,though is made spicific for each lenox blade

[Dan Sawyer]

Lenox blades are all made in East Longmeadow, Mass.  It is just outside Springfield.  Carbon wood cutting blades go through several processes, depending on the manufacturer, these can differ, but for the most part they consist of:

1. Heat treat - Can happen before the blade is toothed or after it is toothed depending on the manufacturer
2. Toothing - There are several methods to this.  Some include milling, grinding, or cut out.
3. Setting - The blades must then be set.  Again keep in mind, heat treat may happen after toothing and before setting with some manufacturers. 
4. Tooth hardening - There are different options in how to tooth harden the teeth; the most used being induction hardened

All manufacturers buy raw steel stock from a number of different mill sources.  The main companies that actually make their own blades are Wood-Mizer, Lenox, Simonds, Munfors, Starrett, MK Morse, Timberwolf (Suffulk).  Cook's private labels his blades.  Logmaster blades are private label as well. 

Lenox has a new blade called Woodmaster C-Sharp developed specifically for the portable sawmills.  It is only being released now.  It has had great results testing in the field. 

[ladylake]

Welcome Dan and good info.    Steve

[bandmiller2]

Thanks Dan and welcome,sounds like your on the inside.I'll have to try some of the c-sharps seeing as Lenox is a local co. Frank C.

[Dewey]

I was one of the mills  that tested the woodmaster C-Sharp   blade.....   I loved it !!!   Lenox  actually came to my mill  for an afternoon...  And filmed  my sawmill  ect....    I think the C-Sharp  is worth a try !! ;)

[Art_H]

Woodmaster C-Sharp, is there a profile cam from Lenox for this blade? They advertise a flatter gullet so I assume there should be a unique cam profile etc?

There also doesn't seem to be a lot of testimonials of this new blade vs. others ie; Timberwolf etc.

Thanks.

Art

[hamish]

Woodmaster C-Sharp, is there a profile cam from Lenox for this blade? They advertise a flatter gullet so I assume there should be a unique cam profile etc?
There also doesn't seem to be a lot of testimonials of this new blade vs. others ie; Timberwolf etc.
Thanks.
Art

Art,

The profile cam would come from the manufacturer of your sharpener, not the band manufacturer.
I have been using Woodmaster C-Sharps for about 6 months and am very impressed thus far.  Cant compare it to other bands as what works for one doesn't always work for the other.  The hardback design allows me to increase the tension, and have been sharpened on a profile grinder near 8 times now with no noticeable change or failures.
Tooth spacing at the weld is spot on and set is extremely consistant.
Normally I run flexback bands, mainly Goldlines and MK Morse Quiksilvers, the Lenox Woodmaster C are letting me increase my feed rate all the while getting nice clean cuts.

My .03 cents.

[bandmiller2]

Prehaps I'am a crude dude but I usally leave the same cam on my cats claw and do all brands with it ether a simonds or timberwolf cam,some times it takes a couple of sharpenings to completely clean the gullet.Do believe its the hook,set and sharpness of the band that matters more than minor gullet differances. Frank C.

[John Bartley]

Prehaps I'am a crude dude but I usally leave the same cam on my cats claw and do all brands with it ether a simonds or timberwolf cam,some times it takes a couple of sharpenings to completely clean the gullet.Do believe its the hook,set and sharpness of the band that matters more than minor gullet differances. Frank C.

I have the sharpener from Gilbert Saw (Champion Saw Mills), and because they do not sell cams with any other profile than their own, I also use it for everything and yes, sometimes it takes  a couple of passes to get someone else's band to match the cam - but they cut the same anyway.

John

[ladylake]

Prehaps I'am a crude dude but I usally leave the same cam on my cats claw and do all brands with it ether a simonds or timberwolf cam,some times it takes a couple of sharpenings to completely clean the gullet.Do believe its the hook,set and sharpness of the band that matters more than minor gullet differances. Frank C.

Same here, I must be crude also.   I also think it's the hook, set and sharpness and the gullet doesn't matter much.  Some say a shallow gullet will get full when cutting hard woods and cut crooked, yet the same gullet will cut pine at a high feed rate. that doesn't add up.    Steve

[Grappletractor]

Where online can one purchase these blades ?

[york]

http://www.menomineesaw.com/

[Dan Sawyer]

Gentlemen,
I would like to clear up a few questions below.  The C-Sharp blade was developed with a flat in the gullet.  This was developed into the product to prevent the blade from developing cracks and breaking.  Traditional gullets have a rounded radius and there is a single point at the bottom of the radius where cracks can begin to form and the blade can break.  The flat in the gullet solves this issue.

You are all correct that having a sharp blade with accurate set are very important.  I would caution when using another cam profile to be careful not to produce to much heat into a blade as that could lead to poor performance and band breakage.  From the sounds of things, it appears that you sawyers are making light passes and not experiencing any problems with this.

Lastly, if any of you are interested in trying the LENOX WOODMASTER C-SHARP product, please send me a private message.  I would be more than happy to provide you with a distributor or place online to buy your blades.  In fact, I am so sure you will achieve superior performance with this blade that I will send you three blades free of charge for you to test on your mill before you buy any. 

We do have some product testimonials if you are interested at the following location(s):
LENOX WOODMASTER FACEBOOK PAGE - http://www.facebook.com/lenoxwoodmaster?ref=hl
or you can go directly to Youtube where we have one product feature and benefit video and three testimonial video's: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZwrBtYtMMoQ

I hope to hear from all of you and if you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

[LaserZX]

Hi

How do you get the deal on 3 free blades   

Thank you in advance

Mike

[WH_Conley]

I see that the title of the thread is Woodmaster C blades. Reference is made to Woodmaster C-Sharp. Is this the same product? I have used the Woodmaster C before, good blade.

I guess it is about time to make comparisons again.Every couple of years I get a couple of blades from all the major manufactures and compare them. The way technology changes you never know who is on top.

[ladylake]

 Dan's sending me a couple 7* and 10* blades to try.  He said to run some extra tension as these blades are closer to 1 3/8 wide, good to know that.  I'll give a report after 4 or 5 sharpenings.   Steve

[Art_H]

Thanks for the info.  I'm gonna start a new thread for the C-Sharp, as it seems to be confusing people a bit.

Art

[Art_H]

This is sort of a continuation from this thread titled 'Woodmaster C Blades'

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,55818.0.html

Being a newbie, I was looking for some reviews of blade performance etc.  There doesn't seem to be much on here about the new Lenox Woodmaster C-Sharp blades.  A few mentions of it here or there, but no real info.  I've tried sourcing the new in the spring 2012 C-Sharp blades, but the local band saw suppliers haven't even heard of it.  Makes you kind of wonder when you are educating the suppliers about new tech and offerings in their field.  Not to mention a direct brand they are affiliated and supplying. 

Seems this blade has a new profile in the gullet that has a flat area vs a constant radius.  Seems that is a great idea to minimize any potential stress risers.  That begs the question...  Those that are using the new C-Sharp, how are you sharpening them?  Is there a new cam profile, or just pushin' 'er through with the stock profile on the sharpener.  Likely, a constant radius ground into a C-Sharp blade would reduce it's lifespan?

Admin:  Merged Topics, No Need For a New Topic.

[Dan Sawyer]

These are not the same Lenox blades that you may have tried years ago.  You likely tried Woodmaster C blades back then.  These blades were designed for re-saw applications.  The C-Sharp blade was designed for portable sawmills. 

Early in 2013, we will offer cam's for the C-Sharp blade for the Cook's Cat Claw and the old style Wood-Mizer cam driven sharpeners.  We will also offer the CBN full form grinding wheels for the Wood-Mizer CBN sharpeners.  We had hoped that Cook's would offer the profile Cam's for their sharpeners for the C-Sharp profile, but that has not played out at this time.  More details will come when these are available.

To answer the last question that I saw...it is very important to not put a radius into the flat area as that will introduce heat into the blade and will likely cause band breakage issues.  During out testing, we modified / dressed the wheel on our cam profile sharpener and we didn't really grind at the flat.  We made sure we ground the face and back of the tooth, but didn't touch the gullet and we had good success.  Everyone will find what works for them and go with that, that is just what we did during our testing phase. 

Again I will let everyone know when we have the Cam profile's and CBN full form dressing wheels available.

Regards,
Dan

[WH_Conley]

That was the answer I was looking for. It has been several years since I ran the Woodmaster C blade. The profile was close enough that after a couple of sharpening s  my woodmizer cam mucked it out just fine.

[LeeB]

Dan, I can't tell if Lennox is a forum sponser or not. Have you considered doing so to help out the forum we all love?

[Art_H]

I was planning on maybe getting the Cook's Cat Claw, but now that they are not going to support a new decent blade, maybe I won't.  The blade has been out for a while, not sure why they haven't jumped on the bandwagon.

On another note... Dan, will the C-sharp cam supplied by Lenox ever grind the flat portion in the gullet? Or just leave it alone, and only do the tooth face and back profile as you described?

Thanks,

Art

[dail_h]

I saw the new c sharps at the Richmond Expo this spring,, needed some blades,, so ordered 5. ran the first 2 ,, have never had a blade cut as well or as long before,, and have tried about all of them. Ordered 5 8degrees to saw some oak. my buddy was helping offbear,, after awhile, he asked "when you gonna change the blade"? "not till it gets dull". Best cutting blade i've ever used . will send some out to get sharpened after christmas,,we'll see how they hold up after sharpening.
oh yeah,, every timei order 5 i get a new t shirt too  ;D wonder what i'de get if ordered more??

[Dan Sawyer]

LeeB - There are a lot of great people on this forum.  We are looking into a becoming a sponsor for 2013. 

Art H - We are in the process of developing the cam and cbn profiles.  We will likely grind the gullet as well - we would be sure not to do anything to damage the blade performance.

Dan

[LeeB]

 

[ohsoloco]

I've been using woodmaster c blades for years with good results.  Can't wait to try out the c-sharps  8)

[drobertson]

I would consider trying the C-sharps, a trial offer would be great, I only need one to know if they run on my mill.  The question I have is the flat gullet, It seems that most of the time a radius displaces stress not adds to it. We always drilled holes in cracked castings and plates to retard further cracking when welding was not an option. Sharp corners, or a very small radii almost always lead to cracks when stress was present, there is allot to say about heat treatment and the metalugerical design of any cutting tool.

[Art_H]

drobertson,

I know what you mean by the drill stop methods, and that works very well.  I think what's going on with a blade's gullet is that the biggest stress is obviously going around the wheels, and working the blade.  Th thinnest part of the blade is going to take the most energy focus, radius gullet or not.  By making that thinnest area flat, it effectively spreads out the potential stress risers that occur.  It would be interesting to see how many revolutions just a flat no tooth band of the same metallurgy would turn before failure.  You could even heat up the blade with a light torch to simulate cutting heat.

[york]

OK,my three sample bands came today and they really look good-soon will try on some Hemlock logs.....
albert

[drobertson]

Well Art, that verifies what I just told my wife, she said" you sure spend allot of time on the forum" my reply was, "well I consider it like reading a real good novel," she enjoys her books,  I have learned a great deal from all you folks, and this is another example, I never considered the additional material reducing the fatigue, thanks Art!  david

[Grappletractor]

Cut some pine today with the C-Sharp and the surface of the cut ( in clear wood ) looked pretty much like it was planned. While running over some large red knots, over an inch in diameter, it showed teeth marks.

[shortlogger]

Got my 3 free blades on the way here to try out , but also gonna have a new son here in 9 or 10 weeks and moma says i better get all that huntin and fishin stuff out of the extra bed room and do some painting and help her decorate . may have to add onto my shed to fit all my stuff in it so the sawmilling may have to wait a few weeks !  When a woman goes into nesting mode things better happen.

[LeeB]

Congrats on the pending arrival. Keep momma happy. If she ain't happy nobody gonna be happy. :D

[WH_Conley]

Got mine today. Will wait til I have some logs that don't have half the mud froze and half thawed. Wouldn't be a fair test when the mud is set up like concrete.

[Ohio_Bill]

Got mine today. Will wait til I have some logs that don't have half the mud froze and half thawed. Wouldn't be a fair test when the mud is set up like concrete.

Bill Did you get the 7,s

[WH_Conley]

Should have been 10's. To tell you the truth I was busy when Fedex ran and I didn't get a chance to look.

[Larry]

I got 7's.  They look a lot like WM 7's with the tall tooth, but a few subtle differences.  Can't wait to give em a try in some tough wood but all I have in the yard is softwood right now.   

[LeeB]

I got mine a week or two back. Haven't had anything to use them on yet. The FedEx guy didn't actually deliver to me, he just threw them out in the bushes at the bottom of the hill. Luckily my SIL found them before somebody else did. >:(

[hackberry jake]

Got my bands in today, they look pretty sweet with the blue surface. I can't wait to sink em in some logs!

[drobertson]

Got mine yesterday just after lunch! At the same time a load of 16' cedar logs,  thanks daniel,   david

[ND rancher]

I got to try a 7° on the same oak that dulled a ultra before I got it cut.It went through like nothing, then moved on to a cottonwood, same thing. Then started on ash, no problem until last cut on a cant,and then I heard that bad sound..... :( End of that blade. Hit my first FO, a broad head! They sure made a smooth cut, not much to plane when dry.If the rest are as good I will be putting in a order.   photo to come later.    Keith

[xlogger]

I cut a few syp boards yesterday and tried my 10° blades. They work real good I've got more to cut later and will see how they hold up.
Steve, did you see how I did the ° ? :D

[ladylake]

° * ° * °.     Steve

[hamish]

Snowed in a froze up, only was to the mill is on snowshoes........and you lucky guys are cutting!

[bandit11208]

Just recieved my 3 blades ;D. Will have to wait to try them cause my mill is 300 miles North of me right now. Thanks Dan your the best!!!!      Does it mean I have a problem when all I dream about at night is cutting logs?

[drobertson]

Yea, you are sick, it is a common ailment,  go to your wood stove, grab some bark and slivers that fell off while loading, take a sniff, or two, and get to the mill as soon as possible,

[Art_H]

The blades came about a month ago, (Lenox woodmaster C-Sharp) They gave me 4 instead of 3, 1-1/2" 7 deg.  Just tried them out.  Had dried local Douglas Fir.  This stuff is super hard, and is really on the verge of being a hardwood.  Anyway, they cut very nicely and very straight, despite the crude guide system I have.  The finish is great, and I'm not even going to bother planing the concrete form work timber.

Thanks Lenox for your gracious offerings, and it did not go unnoticed.

Thanks Dan as well for actioning the sample requests.

Art

[levans]

My free blades came awhile back but the weather is not being kind to Me.
I did get to try one blade out but I don't know if it was a very fair test, The log was a white oak about 26" at the small end, it had been down for about three years and at the time was frozen.
Short of driving some spikes in it I'm not sure what more I could have ask of that blade.
I had some slight diving when cutting the full width of the log but came to find the guides were a little bit out, as soon as I can get into the woods I'm going try the blades on some fresh cut pine.

[Migal]

Ok I'm prepared to test these blades but yet to be offered the chance so as far as Migal is concerned If it sound's to good to be true,then it must be .

[shortlogger]

Migal .... All you have to do is pm Dan Sawyer and tell him what blade you need and he will send them

[drobertson]

I just ran the first one today, a ten degree, All I can say at this point is if they resharpen good, I might have found a new band blade, it just smoked through the erc, not that this is difficult cutting, but really nice surface finishes at a high feed rate.. looking foward to more sawing tomorrow.   david

[millstead]

I have been using the wood master c blades they have been a good blade and I can buy them at a shop 4 miles from home I'm looking forward to trying the new blades out 

[drobertson]

Well I messed up again :D  these are the C-sharps,  mighty fine running blade, been on the cook's super sharp for quite awhile now,  these could replace them if they resharpen well, just saying a good blade but have only ran this one for a few hundred bdft.  david

[xlogger]

Used the C sharp 7° today on some white oak, I really like the way it cut. I've got a few more oak logs to cut tomorrow and will sharpen it to see how it does. I have  used the 10° blades also, they did well too.  thanks, Dan

[hunz]

I received (4) 1-1/4" blades today compliments of Dan, 2 with 7* hook and 2 of the 10*. I haven't had a chance to run them yet but definitely look forward to it based on the other trials on the forum. I have a pile of 25"+ EWP that needs to be sawn and some red/white oak. I have a 33" diam white oak 7' long that has been at the mill for a while, just haven't got up enough nerve to saw it. This sucker is going to give my mill a run for its money. I think these new 7* c sharps may be up to the job, we'll see!

[Magicman]

I agreed to trial the Woodmaster C Blades.  I committed to give them a fair trial and an unbiased opinion.  They came in, but they will have to wait until Pat and I get back home.

I will have to find a source for resharpening.

[drobertson]

Lynn, for someone who has cut way over a million board feet, and the manner in which you do it, I am amazed that you in the  least have no way of sharpening your own. I know you are a man of means, and it is hard for me to figure sending blades to someone else, regardless of how easy it is, cost is cost.  Blade sharpening is not rocket science or time consuming it is a business that either cost or pays.  Take this how you wish, but in the time you have a glass of tea and snack break you could pay yourself and for the snacks,   david

[beenthere]

And he could stay home from elk hunting, and honeymooning, and sharpen blades and even take in blades to sharpen for others.  Come on MM, get R in gear.   ;D ;D ;D

(tongue in cheek here )   ;D

[ladylake]

Lynn, for someone who has cut way over a million board feet, and the manner in which you do it, I am amazed that you in the  least have no way of sharpening your own. I know you are a man of means, and it is hard for me to figure sending blades to someone else, regardless of how easy it is, cost is cost.  Blade sharpening is not rocket science or time consuming it is a business that either cost or pays.  Take this how you wish, but in the time you have a glass of tea and snack break you could pay yourself and for the snacks,   david

The thing is once you put the blade on the sharpener you can have snack break while it goes around.  Steve

[Magicman]

 :D  I completely understand the question why. 

The fact is that I made a personal choice of what to do with my non-sawing time.  My off time is more valuable to me than the $$$ I spend on ReSharp. 

A normal day's sawing will bring in about ~$350.  That is $50 for blades, Diesel, etc.,  and $300 for me.  I am OK with that since my sawing has always provided supplemental income.  As I approach my 70th birthday, the value of my off time becomes more significant.  For me, I made a wise choice.

[WH_Conley]

I guess my trial period is over as I have used the C-sharp blades enough time to break them, 2 anyhow. When I first got them the weather was nasty, logs half froze, muddy. Typical conditions.

All logs here are cable skidded.

I sharpen with the old style WoodMizer sharpener.

I Have the Mark 1 debarker.

Blades 1 and 2 started out in Oak, muddy oak and ended in Poplar. First time around I got 400-500 feet, (did I say muddy? Sometimes I wondered what species I was sawing. After sharpening I was getting 600-700 feet per sharpening in Poplar. Both blades broke about time to change on the 4th use. 2200-2700 feet per blade. I can't complain on that. The third blade just came off the mill today and will have to be set. That was it's 4th go around.

As I was also using WM blades at the same time I was able to compare both blades. Note that I did not have the proper cam and the blades were taking on a decided WM profile.

I change blades every little bit. I have used WM, Timberwolf, Cooks, Simmonds, Lennox Woodmaster C, and some not worth mentioning as I am not sure they are still in business. I would not hesitate to place these blades in the premium blade class.

I will not hesitate to use these blades again.

I think the ideal blade would be one that you put on the mill, saw 2000-2500 feet and throw away. No resharp charges and no time in the basement doing my own blade maintenance.

[drobertson]

I have known a few that do the throw away method.  In fact the sharpener and setter I have now is from one of them, real glad of their technique,  no way throwing away a blade after 2000 ft  makes cents to me,  just my opinion,  david

[WH_Conley]

Seldom does a blade even think about getting that kind of mileage. As a guess I would be about 500 ft to the sharpening,(cable skid, gravely ground), I would rather get 2000 and throw away that 3000 in 6 sharpening's. People in different locations/log handling might get better than that, not around here. Say $25.00 per blade, if it would get 2000 ft the cost per ft would be about 1 cent. I don't know about resharp, just say it is worth $10.00 per sharpening, 5 sharpening's per 3000 ft, that would be more like 3 cents a foot blade expense. I am sure every bodies mileage varies. The point is, I would sacrifice some footage per blade for the convenience. I have other things that I would like to do in the evenings besides sharpen blades. It amounts to what a person values their time at.

[drobertson]

I hear ya man, just saying 30 minutes in the garage, a night a week and I can get 4 fold from a blade,  it has paid me, but, I did not pay for my sharpener, or setter, so, I can understand your view for sure, going outside for a service can be expensive and a pain, but only if the bucks are coming in,  here, I bout give stuff away at times, if you don't believe me just ask my wife ;D  but all said, resharps can actually out perform new blades most of the time, (not counting the ones that are destroyed by debris of course)   david

[5quarter]

Hey Magic...have you had a chance to field test those woodmaster C blades yet? Curious to know how they cut in SYP and measure up to the blades you normally use.

[WH_Conley]

My sharpener and setter have paid for their selves many times over. I could not operate if I did not sharpen or have sharpened. I could if that magic blade with high footage at a reasonable price existed. I did get close to 2000 ft of 1 inch lumber per blade once. It was the spring of the year and the bark was slipping on Poplar. The logs were naked :D, hit them wit the water hose, not even turn the debarker on. That is the only time I ever got that kind of footage. The blade never even slowed down til it broke. I did not complain.

[drobertson]

I might suggest trying the Cook's super sharpes, I have ran these for real close to 2k and the same for resharpes,  I don't rely on luck, but this might be the case,  david

[Magicman]

Hey Magic...have you had a chance to field test those woodmaster C blades yet? Curious to know how they cut in SYP and measure up to the blades you normally use. 

Yes I did and I made my report but I guess that it's in the "other" Woodmaster thread.  I had forgotten that there were two threads going at the same time.

I'll have to do some searching.

OK, I found it:  LINK

[Ga Mtn Man]

The other thread is about the Woodmaster C-Sharp blades which are different than the Woodmaster C blades.

[Magicman]

The other thread is about the Woodmaster C-Sharp blades which are different than the Woodmaster C blades.

Yes, it is all confusing.  Dan Sawyer brought the C-Sharp blades into this thread in Reply #18.  This is the thread where Dan offered to send me some trial C-Sharp blades, but I posted my results in the other thread about C-Sharp.