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debarker

Started by steve phillips, January 17, 2012, 03:07:24 PM

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bandmiller2

Steve, back in the fifties ford used a starter motor that was very adaptable,just remove the bendix drive and you've got a 12v motor. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

bandmiller2

As Piney says the best thing would be a hydraulic motor,no duty cycle and you could run outher devices too. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

steve phillips

howdy all
hope all are doing well
had sometime today to research, electric dc motors can handle long periods of running ,for most have thermal cut off device or just burn up .
so hyd or arbor shaft belt driven
i got to looking around my scrap pile (metal pac rat) looked over to my left and there set the wheel horse lawn tractor that was given to me ( onan motor i was working on ) ,well it has a hydro tranny with pump and oil tank  lol . this may work out yet.
i just need to get back up on my feet and go to work now lol , this dang ms has had me down here for a few days  and i have cabin fever lol
if its not broke dont fix it !!!!

eastberkshirecustoms

Hello Steve, as I would agree that hydraulics are superior to electric in many aspects, they come with a premium. (i.e.- they are not cheap) All the hoses, fittings, valves, pump, tank, filter, and oil add up quick and will cost you. If you mill already has hydraulics, sure the cost will be considerably less. With electric, you need a motor, wire, and a switch. For instance, last year I installed a new 3 spool valve for my FEL with grapple, a forth remote spool feeding a solenoid selector to run a 3PH tip and tilt, and a separate set of remotes to power the back hoe. Doing the install myself and fabricating distribution blocks, mounts, etc. - the bill came in around $700 for the project. Would I do it again? -In a heartbeat.
I don't think that hydrostatic rear will help you much. Most lawn tractor hydros are integral units where the charge pump and motor are all built into the rear housing. That would be way to bulky and heavy to mount up as a debarker drive.

pineywoods

Big electric motor looks good on paper, but it's an illusion. Most commonly available 12 volt motors big enough to run a debarker, like starter motors,  would last for maybe 1 log before going up in smoke from over heating. The juice to run one ain't free, need a honkin big alternator and heavy battery. Hydraulic pump would likely be cheaper.
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

hackberry jake

Just bolt some dado blades on the head of your weed eater and add a couple springs and you're set!  :D
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EZ Boardwalk Jr. With 20hp Honda, 25' of track, and homemade setworks. 32x18 sawshed. 24x40 insulated shop. 30hp kubota with fel. 1978 Massey ferguson 230.

eastberkshirecustoms

Quote from: hackberry jake on January 20, 2012, 10:20:20 PM
Just bolt some dado blades on the head of your weed eater and add a couple springs and you're set!  :D
Always thinking outside the box! Me thinks that I like- a gas powered debarker. Throw a micro turbo on it and.... hmmm smiley_headscratch smiley_idea

bandmiller2

Reminds me of one of the guys we pull tractors with and his "polish" turbo,that is a leaf blower duct taped to the hood of his old case feeding the air cleaner. Mayby an electric lief blower would help my tired old Dagenham mill diesel??? Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Jaybolicious

 

 

sorry if the pic is upside down, but this is what came on my mill. It's a $29 briggs and stratton starter motor with a 1/4" round bit.  It has a pin to hold it out of the way when you don't need it.  The large bearing allows for about a quarter inch of penetration from the bit.  It has a light switch conveniently located to operate it.  My 21 hp motor has no problem running it at all. I have milled mainly EWP and it helps alot when the logs are a little dirty.   

Magicman

Your example shows that there are viable options.

(You should be able to flip your picture, re-upload it, and then re-post it with an edit).
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Jaybolicious

 

 


 

Hopefully this is right-side up this time.

Magicman

Good job!!  smiley_thumbsup   Now upload a Chiropractor to turn my head back around straight.   ;D ;D
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

steve phillips

hey jay
no over heating problems on slow cuts ?
if its not broke dont fix it !!!!

Bump

I have a Wm LT 40g25 and have to admit the $1500 for the Retro fit debarker made me cringe. The motor is $600 to buy and another $150 to duplicate the assembly 24 hours to fabricate paint and mount through in a day lost tweeking it in I figured 32 hours. So $1600 for time lost $750 for materials $2350 in a device adding only $500 in value to my mill for resale compared to $800. The WM cost me $1500 with a -$800 for resale and my replicated costing $2350 with -$500 resale. So final tally of $700 for the factory and $1650 for the replicated. I decided to order the factory one.

Magicman

I have never run a sawmill without a Debarker, but looking at some of the logs that I am faced with, I cringe to imagine the thought.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Jaybolicious

Never had an issue with overheating.   I turn it on and off before and after each  cut usually, but I leave it on continuously too and it never gets hot.  I would know if it were because I put my hand on the motor usually when I pull it back to pin it out of the way.  One thing I learned is never start the motor when it is already in contact with the log, I broke two of three teeth on the debarker bit once because it was on a hard knot when I started it, $15 bucks for a new bit.   Now I always start the motor then engage the debarker into the log and haven't had an issue since.   If there are lots of knots or if the log is very irregular, I'll only pressure wash  it as good as I can rather than risk breaking something on a knotty or bad log, this seems to be rare with the EWP I've been milling though.

Magicman

Welcome to the Forestry Forum Bump.   :)
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Bump


br549

I know this is an old topic. I just have to wander about the small 4 stroke generator that Tractor Supply sells of HarborFreight. I've had the TS brand one and it's small enough to sit on the saw carriage and would pull a decent sized A/C motor with a blade mounted on it.

br549

I know this is an old topic. I just have to wander about the small 4 stroke generator that Tractor Supply sells of HarborFreight. I've had the TS brand one and it's small enough to sit on the saw carriage and would pull a decent sized A/C motor with a blade mounted on it.

Ox

Sure, why not?  With a little outside the box thinking anything like that is possible.  Another machine (the generator) to have to worry about and maintain is the only drawback I can see.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

tmarch

Quote from: bandmiller2 on January 18, 2012, 06:35:44 AM
I've used a debarker alot when I ran the LT-70,it works well but I was glad to shut it off.My current debarker is an axe and wire brush,have no plans to build one of those complicated swinging buzzsaws. Frank C.
For those of us like Frank I found this tool, Shizel (google it) works well if the bark is a bit lose.  Built be Pine Ridge Tools.
Retired to the ranch, saw, and sell solar pumps.

smwwoody

Starter motors work great.  seen them many times. 

I dont see what the big deal is about debarkers.  I have cut well over 10 million feet each on an LT300 and an lt3500 sitting side by side the 3500 with a debarker and the 300 without.  on average i dont see a real differance.

Woody
Full time Mill Manager
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Cooper Scragg
McDonugh gang saw
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TS end trim
Pendu slab recovery system
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Nomad

     Woody, you must be getting some decently clean logs.  If you tried that with the sand-crusted stuff I get most of the time you'd be changing a band every 10 minutes.
Buying a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter
WoodMizer LT50HDD51-WR
Lucas DSM23-19

Chuck White

I have to agree with nomad, you won't cut through much grit without useing a debarker of some sort!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

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