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Author Topic: Thick slab glue up  (Read 4801 times)

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Offline stumpy

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Thick slab glue up
« on: December 30, 2011, 06:25:45 pm »
I'm looking for some ideas on improving my method.  frequently I need to glue up slabs as thick as 2", wide as 12", and long as 8'.  The problem is getting a good edge on them so they glue up clean and seamless.  I use biscuits and Tightbond 2 glue.  The problem is, if I rip them on the mill, they're fairly true, but not good enough.  I tried running them thru my joiner, but they're just to big to handle.  I tried the table saw, but because they're so big, it's hard to control the cut.  Any ideas????
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Offline tyb525

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Re: Thick slab glue up
« Reply #1 on: December 30, 2011, 06:37:38 pm »
Circular saw and good blade, with a long, stiff straightedge (metal or hardwood). Clamp the straightedge to the board and run the base of the saw against it.
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Offline Ianab

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Re: Thick slab glue up
« Reply #2 on: December 30, 2011, 07:20:09 pm »
I've mounted my big router on the mill carriage. Put a large flat cut bit in the router and you can joint and plane pretty much any  size board, and get it as true as your mill's rails.



Ian
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Offline shelbycharger400

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Re: Thick slab glue up
« Reply #3 on: December 30, 2011, 08:18:36 pm »
i use a pro's edge  (menards) and a skill saw. 
I must add,  pro cabinet shops use LONG toe and foot boards on their jointers

Offline nomad

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Re: Thick slab glue up
« Reply #4 on: December 31, 2011, 06:27:47 am »
     Try a long, wide straight edge made of something thin and hard clamped to the board.  Use a router with a 2" long pattern/trim bit.  You can get them with the bearing either on the top, bottom, or both.
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Offline LeeB

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Re: Thick slab glue up
« Reply #5 on: December 31, 2011, 09:00:17 am »
You can also use the skilsaw/straight edge combination by laying the two boards to be glued side by side. Use some cleats and wedges to lightly clamp them together. Position the straight edge so the cut will be centered on the seem down the middle. Any discrepecies will be mirrored from one edge to the other.
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Offline Rooster

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Re: Thick slab glue up
« Reply #6 on: December 31, 2011, 10:28:46 am »
Stumpy,

Here are a couple ideas:

Build portable workbenches on lockable casters that will double as infeed and outfeed tables for your table saw.

Use a 18" x 96" ripped slice of 1/2" cdx plywood, and clamp your 2" stock to the top...use the factory edge of the plywood against your fence. Carraige bolts, wing nuts, and some hardwood blanks can be used to hold the stock in the correct position.

Also, there is a company in Madison called The Workbench Tool Company
http://www.workbenchtool.com/
...and they may still have a straight line rip saw.  It takes rough sawn lumber and edge cuts automatically.   Might be worth the trip "Out West" to get a quality product that you don't have to fight with...and get a good seamless glue-up.

Good luck,

Rooster
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Offline purple otter

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Re: Thick slab glue up
« Reply #7 on: December 31, 2011, 06:14:35 pm »
A few years ago I built a dining table out of 3" thick white oak.Like you said it is HEAVY.In order to handle the planks I built infeed and outfeed tables for my jointer.They were only as wide as my jointer and have adjustment screws onthe legs.The tops were melamine to help the material slide better.I also ripped everything to 6",this not only made it easier to handle ,but allowed me to true  up one surface on the jointer before planing them.I know it sounds bad ripping a nice 12" piece in 1/2,but when they are glued back together you honestly can't see the joint.Good luck!

Offline scsmith42

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Re: Thick slab glue up
« Reply #8 on: December 31, 2011, 10:11:35 pm »
Depending upon your budget, I would suggest two options.

Option 1 - Festool track saw (the larger one).  Expensive, but phenominal quality.
Option 2 - a high HP router with a straight bit and an edge guide.  Less $ than the Festool, and more versatile.

Option 2 is probably the most commonly used option for achieving a straight edge on longer boards.
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Offline beenthere

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Re: Thick slab glue up
« Reply #9 on: December 31, 2011, 10:17:46 pm »
The slightes change in moisture content will likely change any straight edge obtained.
So quick assembly after straightening the edge will be important as any crook will not likely be removed by clamping.

purple otter has a very good idea for thick material.  ;)
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Offline Norm

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Re: Thick slab glue up
« Reply #10 on: January 01, 2012, 08:24:16 am »
I have the festool track saw Scott talked about and it works great.
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Offline red oaks lumber

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Re: Thick slab glue up
« Reply #11 on: January 01, 2012, 09:09:36 am »
finding someone in your area that has a straight line rip saw will be the cheapest, fastest, most accurate option :)
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Offline purple otter

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Re: Thick slab glue up
« Reply #12 on: January 01, 2012, 05:21:15 pm »
Here is a  picture of the jointer extention ,and the dining table.

  

  

 

Offline beenthere

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Re: Thick slab glue up
« Reply #13 on: January 01, 2012, 06:13:10 pm »
I have similar jointer extensions for long pieces on the jointer as well.

I see you are getting some top shrinkage in the table but have allowed for it to slide in the end caps.
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Offline stumpy

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Re: Thick slab glue up
« Reply #14 on: January 01, 2012, 06:33:38 pm »
Thanks for all the input.  I'm reminded why I'm a member here.  keep it commin 8)
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Offline purple otter

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Re: Thick slab glue up
« Reply #15 on: January 01, 2012, 06:54:13 pm »
Beenthere,the 3"oak airdried for7years and the 40"top shrunk 1/2",not too bad.

Offline SwampDonkey

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Re: Thick slab glue up
« Reply #16 on: January 01, 2012, 07:03:28 pm »
Like beenthere says about truing up the edges, make sure you use it soon or it will move out of square over a few days.

Pre-commercial thinning pays off. :)

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Offline Magicman

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Re: Thick slab glue up
« Reply #17 on: January 01, 2012, 08:21:19 pm »
Yup, you gotta allow wood to do what wood does.  I built a Grandfather clock out of Pecan once.  Well, I should say "was building".   :-\  I finally had to scrap the entire project because I did not allow enough room for shrinkage with some wide raised panels.
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Re: Thick slab glue up
« Reply #18 on: January 01, 2012, 08:29:29 pm »
Purple Otter,

The sliding dovetail on the breadboard end is a very nice design feature!
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Offline Ironwood

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Re: Thick slab glue up
« Reply #19 on: January 01, 2012, 08:36:17 pm »
Well, others have said this but, for what is worth I make my living building with BIG thick material. Delivering a 22' walnut bartop to downtown Pittsburgh tomorrow morning. Tree was lightening struck lightly, see the check in the pics. Also, it is in priamrily two pieces with a third center "marque"

 The straight edge router is THE way to go. Skip Festool (sorry guys) unless you have other uses for their system(s),...$$$

 Go to an aluminum supply shop and get/order a 1/2" or 5/8" x 4" piece of high tensile aluminium (40/20 I think)  "flat bar" , Mine is 12' long and it get used frequently for just this purpose. Forget about add-on tables (although I have them on my 16" Oliver jointer) the straight edge is the way to go. I even have a hidden hole in the wall on the outfeed side of the jointer for the boards to go out if they are longer than 9' or so ::)

 It stays true and will last and last. mine was $150 many years ago. Pic looks shiny, it dulled down when it dried (I HATE shiny)

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