Cabinet Carcas

Ga_Boy · December 28, 2011, 01:20:43 PM

I need some suggestions. I am building a base cabinet carcas that will have three openings from left to right and three openings from top to bottom (a total of 9 openings, a 3X3 grid).

The construction material will be 3/4 cabinet grade plywood, the top and bottom will fit in to the sides with dados. Here is where I need suggestions. Should the vertical dividers be a one piece of fixed plywood (dado) with horizontal dividers cut to individual size? Or, should the horizontal dividers be one piece?

I'll use 1/2 plywood for the back to give structure to the carcas.

Mark

Radar67 · December 28, 2011, 01:24:41 PM

In all my years of building cabinets, the verticals were always one piece.

SwampDonkey · December 28, 2011, 06:18:57 PM

Regardless, make sure the base is stiffened with a cross member and the shelves have cross members or slotted into the back or the plywood shelves will sag. I would build the skeleton from solid wood and use the plywood for panels and dividers.

wheelinguy · December 29, 2011, 06:57:31 AM

without a doubt the verticals should be solid!

WDH · December 29, 2011, 07:54:59 AM

The front should be a face frame of solid wood where the vertical and horizontal members are about 2" wide. You can put the whole face frame together with pocket screws, and then affix this face frame to the two sides. Then, you can add the back supports and the 1/2 plywood to stiffen the carcass.

Ga_Boy · December 30, 2011, 08:33:05 AM

Thanks for the help.

Ga_Boy · January 10, 2012, 07:19:06 AM

Thanks to all, I have one of the carcasses dry fitted. Not a bad fit, the Incra fence on the router table made mince meat of cutting the dados.

I did have one casualty in th project and could not have been happier. The coard on my circular saw got cut again (I've cut this coard about 6 six times). This time it is too short to fix, so I had to junk it. Now I get to buy a descent circular saw, would not mind a Festool, but I am having a hard time justifying spending $700 on a circular saw. I do like the idea of the track system.

WDH · January 10, 2012, 07:24:27 AM

Yeah, I keep looking at festool too. Almost bought a random orbit sander from them, but at over $300, I decided on the 6" Bosch at half that cost.

Radar67 · January 10, 2012, 09:18:15 AM

Look at the Skill 77. It is a heavy saw, but it is easy to cut a straight line with it. And, if they are still as good as the one I bought over 20 years ago, they last.

SwampDonkey · January 10, 2012, 09:36:49 AM

A have a plain old Makita here. I don't use a circular saw for accurate cuts, just to shorten up a piece of lumber to manage easier. ;)

Ga_Boy · January 10, 2012, 11:00:23 AM

My primary use of a circular saw is to cut sheet goods to a rough size and to do rough framing work.

The saw I had was a cheap saw to begin with, the coard was saw stiff it kept getting in the way.

I like the Makita saw, it seems well built. Does anyone have any experience with a worm drive saw? If they are too expensive, I may get one of these.

SwampDonkey · January 10, 2012, 11:39:43 AM

Most seem the praise a worm drive as a better saw. They are also heavier.

Radar67 · January 10, 2012, 11:52:10 AM

The Skil 77 is a worm drive saw. I won't own another style saw.

SwampDonkey · January 10, 2012, 12:52:43 PM

I do know Lee Valley has an open house Jan 19-21 to push the Festool product line. They have blades and sand paper to under the Festool brand.

WDH · January 10, 2012, 08:36:20 PM

I have a bunch of Makita tools. They are very good. I really like the little electric Makita chainsaw around the mill. Much quicker to use to cut rough ends or barky ends off boards. You won't go wrong with Makita.

SwampDonkey · January 10, 2012, 09:42:08 PM

I've had some Makita tools for over 20 years, never replaced any of'm. ;D I don't even know if the drill I have can be replaced. It's a hammer drill, but on the trigger is a dial to change rpms. I never see that feature on new drills. Maybe it is, I never see it. Has a trigger lock and I would assume reverse is not unique.

tyb525 · January 10, 2012, 10:42:59 PM

Skil has become a chinese knock-off brand

5quarter · February 08, 2012, 08:57:34 AM

Ga Boy...Did you finish your base cabinet?

jamesamd · April 01, 2012, 01:49:16 AM

Festool tools are over rated IMO.Use a sturdy guide with almost any circuler saw (with a good blade,IE Freud) and the cut will be as good or better.

GB,how about some Pics of this Cab.?

Jim

SwampDonkey · April 01, 2012, 05:29:52 AM

Next year I'm going to replace the fence on the table saw. It's pretty much shot (warn out) it seems. They have some accurate ones that use square tubing and not the round like mine.

With rock maple, it doesn't matter what blade you use, brand new, and your going to have burn. Even using a splitter.

wheelinguy · April 01, 2012, 08:02:08 AM

I have two milwaukee circular saws and I couldn't be happier, i've had one for over 12 yrs now and the other for about 8. For about $130 they are great saws, sometimes I have a pieces that need to be straighter so i can put them through the table saw. I have cut through 9/4 cherry and maple with theses saws, handles the cherry fine, burns a little on the maple.