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Sawing lumber thinner .

Started by LA Z BOY, December 14, 2011, 11:24:20 PM

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LA Z BOY

I'm still here reading & hopefully learning . Planning on looking at a used mill soon . I've been wondering , if a person was going to build a board & batten building or shed , why couldn't you saw the siding lumber & battens 1/2 or maybe 3/4 instead of a full inch or more thick ?
I would also like to know if most of you buy a sharpener & a setter or use a re-sharp service . I think I'm leaning more toward buying unless there's a really good reason not to . I believe I've read that some sharpeners does the face of the teeth & not the gullet & some do the gullet also . Is this correct ? 

ely

you can saw the lumber to any thickness you feel comfortable working with. i like my boards at 7/8 so i use the 1 inch scale. i dont mind using 3/4 battons either i just prefer the thicker boards. ive seen some sharpeners built homade that just catch the face of the tooth and they work to some extent, but to really do it correct the bands needs to have the entire profile sharpened.
welcome to the forum also.
if you stick with sawmilling you will most likely wind up sharpening your own bands. lots of quality sharpeners on the market.

Island Sawyer

Welcome lazyboy.
You could probably saw the siding 3/4" but I personally wouldn't go any thinner. Maybe somebody can chime in with experience putting on thinner siding. I would think that the thinner boards would have a greater likelihood of warping and cupping etc.
Some people here use the resharp service and some have their own sharpening equipment both with good results. I have the woodmizer cbn sharpener and its great. There are other good brands as well. If you decide to get a sharpener make sure it grinds the full gullet just as much as the face and back of the tooth. If the gullet doesn't a good grind then small cracks will form and cause your blade to break prematurely. 

bandmiller2

Lazyguy,you can go thinner on your shed but why, with a mill of your own, boards will be the cheapest thing you have.You don't want to push your lawn mower into the shed and it goes through the back wall.Your own setting and sharpening equip. is handy but you need to do a volume of sharpening to make it worthwile.Light usage milling, your better to send it off to resharp.I'am going out on a limb here.If your a hobby miller or have little time use resharp,if you mill for hire get the best sharpener you can afford.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Magicman

I have sawed as thin as 3/4" for siding, but most folks that I saw for prefer 1".

How much sawing you actually do will determine whether you can monetarily justify a sharpener.  The time spent sharpening and also space availability are issues.

I have never regretted opting for WM Resharp service.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

cypresskayaksllc

I use 4/4 boards, but the battons are thinner. Around 5/8 to 3/4. 4/4 battons look too blocky in my opinion.

It been a fun experience learning how to sharpen my own blades.
LT40HDDR, JD950FEL, Weimaraner

bugdust

I think it would depend if you're just sawing siding or building a true board batten building. Old timers would use the siding boards for the wall, eliminating wall studs. The 4 corner boards would be set and a band installed at the top and middle. The remaining siding would then be hung. If this is the type you choose, most definately use 4/4. The is the style I used on an 18'X32' building and it's rock solid. The batten can be any thickness you think looks best. I eventually covered mine with 3/4" lap siding. Redardless which you decide, good luck.
Since I retired I really like work: It fascinates me. I can sit and look at it for hours.

Bibbyman

 

 

We sawed out a lot of stuff for this restaurant.  The front was paneled over plywood sheeting with oak 1/2" thick.  The builder/owner decided to not put battens over the crack.  Instead,  he took a small brush and painted the plywood black through the cracks to make them stand out.

In this case,  he didn't need to go thicker as it was only for exterior show as the wall was sheeted with plywood.  Also,  he had already installed his windows and didn't want the paneling to be thicker than the window set out.



 

Another look.
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Sawing since '94

LA Z BOY

I was thinking of setting 6x6 treated posts & using probably 2x6 band boards on 2 foot centers & installing the siding boards & battens to the 2x6 band boards . I figured the thinner I sawed the lumber the more boards I could saw out of a log & they would be lighter to handle . I don't have any problem sawing them as thick as necessary but don't see any point in sawing them thicker than necessary either . I also prefer the look of thinner battens . All advice welcome .

red oaks lumber

the only thing with sawing the wood thinner, what do with the boards that are left overs or not quite the quality you were looking for? its going to be tough to plane them or really use for other uses that need to finish at 3/4 thick.
the experts think i do things wrong
over 18 million b.f. processed and 7341 happy customers i disagree

WH_Conley

As long as the boards are not holding the roof up they could be thinner. If they were weight bearing it would be another matter. I have built several buildings where the boards were the weight bearing walls. I always saw them 1". I have a cabin here on the lot that is stud walled and has OSB on the walls. I sawed that at 3/4" with 3/4" x 3" battens.
Bill

TGS

WH Conley hit it in my opinion. Board and batten, especially on sheds, is usually load bearing. Ive built about 30+ sheds and for the most part the B&B is load bearing. My lumber is 7/8 on these buildings. When I saw battens, they're 5/8.  When I do cedar for paneling I go 1/2.

zopi

I saw b&b 4/4 and 2/4....not completely load bearing, but sure strengthens the wall...
Got Wood?
LT-15G GO chassis added.
WM sharpener and setter
And lots of junk.

fat olde elf

I saw a lot of B&B at 4x4 less the kerf. Battens are thinner for looks.
Cook's MP-32 saw, MF-35, Several Husky Saws, Too Many Woodworking Tools, 4 PU's, Kind Wife.

bushhog920

I have a cooks sharpener paid $1700 for it and $2000 for my mill  :-\, without sharp blades don't even try and you can go through 2 aday. spend $2000 on a sharpener and setter and at $8 per sharp ( plus having to wait weeks to get them back ) it will pay for its self in 250 sharpings. I keep sharper blades on my mill knowing all i have to do is take a break and sharpen vs trying to get all my money out of them before i send them off.

Ohio_Bill

This white pine siding is  5/8  and has held up well 




Bill
USAF Veteran  C141 Loadmaster
LT 40 HDD42-RA   , Allis Chalmers I 500 Forklift , Allis Chalmers 840 Loader , International 4300 , Zetor 6245 Tractor – Loader ,Bob Cat 763 , Riehl Steel Edger

red oaks lumber

ohio bill
i pictured you a little older :D nice looking building
the experts think i do things wrong
over 18 million b.f. processed and 7341 happy customers i disagree

customsawyer

I am with red oaks on this one.  :D Great looking building.
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

Jeff

5/8" thick red pine siding, put up green off the saw. Still looks great. You can get a whole lot more chunks of siding cut 5/8 out of a log and cover a lot more area.

Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

LA Z BOY

Bills siding looks great & that is a mighty cute cabin Jeff . I think I'll forget the 1/2 " idea & maybe go with 5/8 " or 3/4 " . Maybe 3/4 " for the boards & 5/8 " for the battens . Thanks for the replies everyone & keep them coming if you have any thoughts on the subject . I'm still looking at mills so it's going to be a while before I actually saw any boards .

sdunston

Jeff, I love those porch rockers 8)

Sam
WM LT28, American fordge 18x8 planer,Orange and white chainsaws, NH TC33, IHT6 dozer, IH-H tractor and alot of other stuff that keeps me agravated trying to keep running

WDH

I think that you are on the money with the 3/4" siding and the 5/8" battens for a nice look. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

mandolin

I've sawed a lot of lumber from 1/2 to 3/4. Any thing I have left over, I keep and use it in my cabinet shop. 1/2 inch lumber comes in handy for building lightweight, delicate drawers in jewelry cases and thin edge mouldings.
2008 Hudson 228
1945 Boice-Crane Planer
1953 Ford Jubilee Tractor
Husqvarna 455 Rancher
Dehumidification kiln
Complete cabinet/furniture shop
Professional turkey boxcall tuner

Qweaver

I saw at 1" for B&B and by the time you take out blade kerf and shrinkage it's around 7/8".  I can usually plane to 3/4" if the board is not cupped. If I know that I'm going to plane both sides then I use the 4/4 scale.  I'm cutting my battens at 3/4" and end up at about 5/8" dry.  Works good for me.
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple, Kubota 2501 :D

Knute

I built a garage and used 5/8" siding, however it was installed over plywood sheathing.

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