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Blower on classic central boiler

Started by mrwood, December 14, 2011, 10:48:40 PM

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mrwood

Has anyone here installed the optional blower on the front of a classic central boiler?  A guy in my area has done it. He claims it helps alot. Says the damper is open less because the water comes up to temp faster. I am having a problem with my Coals completely burning up even with raking them to the front. I thought this blower might help but also I do not want to double my wood consumption so I wanted to see if any of you have experience with it.

boilerman101

I tried one on my CB Classic 5648 before moving up to my Eclassic. Definitely burned more wood and I had a lot more issues with it burning away all the coals infront of the door in the firebox with the blower fan on, so I took it off after about 1 month. If you are already having problems with that happening, I would not recommend it. I also did not notice any increase in performance or shorter burn cycles. I always loaded with the butts of the logs to the door, with them only back 2-3 inches from the door frame. I never experienced any problems using natural draft.

OneWithWood

We had one on our 7260 for the first year.  We went through a lot of wood.  I took it off and I think the stove performs better without it.
One With Wood
LT40HDG25, Woodmizer DH4000 Kiln

WI Fire

What goes in, must go out. Forced fan may be necessary if you do not have access or do not have dry wood. Your coal bed may be going down quickly, because so much heat is being used to dry the wet wood. There are boiler Officiandos, who swear by burning a mix of dry and less dry wood, extending reload times. This is probably accurate, but  more wet wood = less heat in btu's for your house, because you are using the heat to dry the wood to burn. When I had  a classic the first year, I DID have to add a front fan, because I did not have enough dry wood, and temps were better than - 20 f. I DID use more wood, part because of the heat being used to dry wood, part because I was moving greater volumes of air (and heat) up the chimney. You do what you have to do.

Also, if one has dry wood, recovery times will be quicker, but so what? You are still losing more up the chimney. When I learned the "better burn practices" which included having an adequate seasoned wood cut well in advance of the next winter, I did much better employing the natural draft that came with the unit.
If you are in a situation that you may need both-- add a switch (waterproof) to the fan wire on the front of the fan box, you will have the option without a lot of hassle.

Best of all, is keeping a good coal bed established, and not being too aggressive in removing your clinkers and ashes which help hold fire between cycles.

Best Wishes,
Tim

terra8186

I have a 6048.  I bought it with a fan and I took it off after 1 year.  I used a lot more wood with the fan.

The other thing is that the cold air blowing into the firebox cools the water temperature quicker.

The only reason to use it is to keep up with a high heat demand.  If you can keep your house warm without it, then don't put it on.

mrwood

Thank you guys for all the replies. I believe what I need is to find someone that has a 5036. The problem I am having is getting my coals to burn up all the way. I know 3 people in the area that have 6048 and they have no problem. Once my initial wood is burnt up if I don't rake my coals everytime the damper opens they get buried under ash and the boiler will never get up to temp. Like I said I know of 3 6048's and they never have to rake that much. I don't know if I'm doing something wrong or if there is a difference in the 5036 that makes it work this way. This is my first heating season with mine and my brothers first season with his 6048 and the difference in coals and ash is night and day. When he opens his up it is nothing but powder. If I try that I am down to 130 and still have a half a furnace of non burnt coals that when raked will burn but at that point you have to do it every damper cycle

beenthere

mrwood
Different species of wood will behave differently regards complete burn vs. needing to be stirred to remove the ash layer on top. Might be the other 3 are not using the same wood and same moisture content as thee.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

mrwood

What you say is very true. All I know for sure is my brother and I bought slab wood from the same place and same time of year so I would have to amagine that our wood is very similar in type and moisture. It is. Wry disappointing to know what I could have

trapper

Does the length of the stove pipe make a difference?  How much do people use on the classic?
Marv
stihl ms241cm ms261cm  echo 310 400 suzuki  log arch made by stepson several logrite tools woodmizer LT30

OneWithWood

Slab wood produces significantly more ash than split rounds.  It is entirely possible that the slabwood you have is different than your brothers.  If you have slabs from a thick barked tree you will end up with more ash.
Be sure to rake out the ash and coals before adding fuel.  By that I do not mean remove the ash and coals but to rake the pile forward and level.
It also helps to build the fire in the center of the stove.  Too far back and you loose heat up the chimney.  Too far forward and you do not maximize the heat transfer to the water jacket.
One With Wood
LT40HDG25, Woodmizer DH4000 Kiln

omni

I have been running my 5648 for 11 years and suddenly this year I cannot get a proper draft.  The chimney and flue are as clean as a whistle. Usually when I crack the door I can get a nice draft going when I am trying to get up to temperature.  However this year its just a struggle.  I have always been able to burn ANY type of wood and I know my boiler pretty well after all these years.  I'm stumped and now I trying to figure out if I should install a blower and which model blower is compatible.  Any and all help is welcome.

E Yoder

Are there any air leaks where the chimney turns from horizontal to vertical? Sounds almost like yours can't pull a vacuum on the firebox.
I'm assuming the solenoid is opening properly?
HeatMaster dealer in VA.
G7000

Wood Shed

mrwood,

I have a 6048 with a blower since day one and am into my 14th season.  Never tried running without it.  Have made two major changes over the years .  First ten years never split anything and used chunks as large as I could lift.  Last four years have burned mostly spilts stored in my wood shed.  Two completely different world going from wet chunks to dry splits.

You mentioned burning slab wood, thats your problem.  Tried it briefly after having a band saw come in and cut up a pile of my logs.  Ended up giving all my slab wood to a neighbor after having the same problems you are having.  Always only loaded once per day as I was working two jobs and putting in 14hr. days.  My advice is to

 

 use what you have as best you can.
A society grows great when old men plant trees whose shade they know they shall never sit in." -Greek Proverb

Rebarb

7 winters now with classic 5036 with just damper door burning 90% seasoned Oak.....never had to restart a fire.

I do have large coal beds from time to time but push every thing to the back then pulling everything forward with rake, leaving powder in back and coals in front. 
Simply won't add wood until the coal bed burns down, stove also keeps temp for quite awhile like this.

For reference, 
I remove 5 gals of power from stove every 10 days.

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