Best part of log for a mantel

[vfauto]

I am new to milling and a friend has some maple logs that he will give me, in exchange he wants two beams about 4or5 inches by 6or8 inches to make two mantles.What part of the log would be the best for this and how long should he let it dry before installing it? ???

[pasaw]

I would think you should box the heart as best as possible and it will take quite a while for them to dry due to the size

[T Welsh]

vfauto, This should help


   Tim

[beenthere]

Much of that sawing decision will depend on the size of the logs.
Any idea what size you might get to saw?
For drying you are likely talking about "years", not months.

Expect drying degrade and change in shape, so cutting over-size and then reshaping after drying should be in the plan when sawing the size.

I have a cherry mantel that size, and it was stored under a friends bed for about 25 years (he says) before he gave it to me. It has some checking but is a beauty and has remained stable on my fireplace for the last 43 years.

Myself, I wouldn't box the heart. Again, that will depend on the size of the logs.

[BandsawWarrior]

I'd make it free of the heart centre.  A boxed heart mantel will crack and change shape the most.  Take a nice piece off the side of centre with some nice vertical grain.  It will still move a little as it dries but at least it won't open up with massive cracks. 

This has been my experience and we do make a lot of these.  We do however kiln dry then resaw back to square and staight. 

[MesquiteSawyer]

I have cut quite a few mantels, but never out of maple.  Most everything I see and everything I cut seems to be cut for appearance; mostly rustic in appearance with a square edge on three sides and a live edge on the front.  (This look is big in TX)  My point to this is, the mantels all seem to dry fairly straight, and I have seen them go from mill to sander to fireplace in under 2 weeks.  Cracks are another issue entirely though.  Some of them will crack like crazy, but most customers seem to like it as it adds to the rustic and natural appeal they were looking for in the first place.  (Your buddy is wanting four square sides if I am reading correctly?) 

I definitely know there is more "know how" here than anywhere else I could think of.  I can't wait to hear what everyone chimes in with. 

You could play it safe and cut them and stash them for at least a year or two, but as long as your buddy is aware of the possibility of drying defects, go for it.  You could also cut an extra set for him and let them air dry for several years if he is anxious to get something over the fireplace.  Good communication about his expectations saves much grief.   :D

Good luck. 
-Mark

[5quarter]

If your log is large enough, Quarter saw your width. No one ever sees the top of a mantle. what actually shows is the edge, which if sawn as above will give you flatsawn on the side that shows, which for Maple looks better than quartersawn.

[Brucer]

I'd make it free of the heart centre.  A boxed heart mantel will crack and change shape the most.  Take a nice piece off the side of centre with some nice vertical grain.  It will still move a little as it dries but at least it won't open up with massive cracks. 

I second this. Free of heart centre for sure. Since he wants two, you should be able to saw a pair out of one log.

I've sawn quite a few mantels over the years. Nobody wants them the same size -- I've cut 2x8's, 4x12, 8x8's, even a 3x14 once.  Everyone wants them dry, too. When I explain that I haven't got any dry mantel stock because every one is different, they want me to tell them they'll be dry enough in the next 3 months. Sometimes they want them dry enough in 3 weeks :D.

The best I can do for them is tell them roughly how much the mantel will shrink, which direction it will shrink, and how it will distort. That way they can make allowances for it.

[Kansas]

I would also agree to go off to the side of the center and quartersaw it. But I would oversize it, then retrim after its cut-that way you can allow for the natural tension in the wood. QS lumber tends to curve down the length of the board, so if you go a little wider, you should be able to resaw and get a straight piece. Depending on what he wants for a look, I would sand just as soon as the surface dries enough to sand, and immediately seal. Hopefully the log is long enough to cut the mantels, then cut to length and seal the ends immediately.

[Magicman]

The OP, vfauto, never stated or indicated what diameter the Maple logs were.  I have never sawed Maple, but I have sawed many mantels from Cherry.  Since boxed hearts tend to be more susceptible to twisting, my preference would be to flat saw one from each side of the heart.

That option still depends upon the size of the log.  We need to hear from the OP.   ???

[WDH]

I have sawn a number of mantles, and my experience, too, is that if you box the heart, the mantle will split.  I also agree that q-sawing from one side or the other is best if you have a big enough log.  It is bad to cut a pretty timber that looks great off the saw only to have it crack and split like it has the devil in it.  Cherry is one of the worst crack-prone species if the pith is in the piece.  Oak is bad, too, but walnut is more forgiving.

[vfauto]

Thanks all, not sure log size yet but I think about 16' to 18'. It seems like everyone stays away from the pith. Again this is my first milling experience other than testing out the mill on a few logs. I have had the mill for a year and have not had a chance to use it because of town issues. 8)

[customsawyer]

The pith is going to have the worst grade in the log so the farther you can stay away from it the better off you will be.