Metal Detectors

[Qweaver]

I'm getting a WPF in a few weeks and I'd really like to avoid hitting metal with those costly blades.  I bought a used White detector from a guy that was recommended by several members of this forum...but I could just never get it to detect anything.  I tried following the direction in the manual but no go.  I just hate to go buying one blindly that may not do the job either.  So...can someone clue me in to one that will do the job and is easy to setup?

Thanks,
Quinton

[T Welsh]

Qweaver, I use a Garrett hand held it wont go any more than 2 or 3 inches deep! Then I use all my senses, and after that I will put a new blade on and I will find metal right away :D Tim

[logboy]

I use a Fischer F70. Its not cheap, but it has saved me numerous blades and retipping charges. It scans a lot further in than those little hand held wands too.  Setup wasnt too bad. I just read the manual and set it to be very sensitive.

[mandolin]

I've got a old metal detector that I've had for years. I don't even know the name of it. I use it on any log that I'm not sure about and it works fine. It's saved me from ruining a lot of blades. I think I gave $30 for it about 15 years ago so I guess it can be classified as a cheapo. I also use it around an old gristmill site on my place and I've found a lot of interesting stuff with it. What I'm saying is, any good metal detector will detect metal in a log. Those little hand held detectors are mostly for running across a board before you plane it.

[islandlogger]

Qweaver
You will be surprised at how tough the Peterson blades are, which is comforting. I've managed to hit some pretty heavy metal and while it did wipe the teeth out the blade it self suffered nothing, just sent it in for re tip and use my back up until that ones done...
For the most part I mill out in the woods where the chance of metal is fairly slim BUT then again alot of these woods were farm at one point and it's usually when I get cocky that Zinggggggg I find that old fence grown into a tree or a spike or or or....I do have a Rens metal detector that works great, it was pricey but I have confidence in it, the only trouble I ever had with it is it kept picking up the metal in my boots, it's sensitive!!
Cant wait till  you get swingin with that ten inch WPF!! I can just see the posts now!!

luck

islandlogger

[bandmiller2]

"Q" after a wile you can almost sence when theirs tramp in a log,usally its in the butt log.Be real leary of trees along walls or fence lines.I have expensive detectors that sit at home and a cheap little detector that gets used because its simple and quick.Seldome will you find just one nail their gregarious and come in groups.Any anomally in the bark is cause to check,outher than that you makes your cuts and takes your chances.Frank C.

[landscraper]

Schonstedt GA-52 is a ferrous metals detector, very simple to use (it only has a volume knob and a sensitivity knob), and can be made very sensitive with the adjustment selector.  I use one at work, and I scan logs with it on my own time - it can find the staple that attached the No Trespassing sign to the tree if you click it on the highest sensitivity setting.  But, it won't find brass, copper, aluminum, etc., only ferrous.  They are good quality, made in the U.S.A., I've had mine for 10 years or more without a problem.

[terrifictimbersllc]

Rens 4000 from Bailey's.  Will alert you to metal so you can either reject the log or try to avoid it.   But if you already have the log you'll want to cut it.  I send out my blades for re-tipping half is postage half retip charge.  I've used BH Payne in GA and Sharp Tool in Hudson MA.  Not a big deal if the customer pays for it and takes about 3-4 days to get it back.  Only need to send it in if half or more of the teeth are wiped out.    Chain slabbing is more forgiving those chains just take a couple extra strokes for most nails.