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Do rounds dry?

Started by doctorb, September 10, 2011, 05:49:22 PM

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doctorb

Huricaine Irene left me with two large trees down - one Norway maple and one black locust.  Free firewood being what it is, I am planning to buck these trees into 20" rounds and store them outside.  Now I am sure that the wood would season faster if split and stacked, but I already have this year's wood and 85% of next year's wood already split and stacked.  So, my question is, do these rounds dry significantly without being split over a full year, or would I be wiser to find more space to stack split firewood and more time to do it?  Optimally, I already know your answer.  But practically, am I really delaying the availability of this green wood by letting it sit a year before I split it?
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

Texas Ranger

Yes, they dry, and will be dry next year, however, I want a movie of you splitting that black locust. ;D
The Ranger, home of Texas Forestry

doctorb

TR -

I know that there's a controversy as to whether it's easier to split wood when it's green or seasoned, but, in my experience, the locust that I have split in the past has done so easily.  I can not recall splitting it after it sits for a year in a round before.  Will it be significantly more difficult?  I've got some elm here as well, if you want to make that movie.  I am dreading that and am planning to let it sit for a year or two and just roll it into the stove, rather than split it. ;D
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

shelbycharger400

i have had 12 in and bigger rounds, sit for over a year, and were still not dry in the inside.  but 6 to 8 months of the the year its winter.

Al_Smith

On the maple you'd be better off to split it in a timely  manner .Maple if left in the rounds tends to try and grow mushrooms and rot internally .

Black locust in my experiance splits easily ,honey locust does not .

You're still better off to split it up and stack it rather that pile up the rounds .Two trees wouldn't take that long nor do you have to do it all in one day .What if it takes a few days or weeks .

clww

I'll echo what Al wrote about the Maple: get it split now or it will get "punky" on the inside. I cut quite a few of these trees down for customers around here and the time to split it is sooner rather than later. I don't know about that Locust, but if you'll be splitting the Maple, you may as well do them both. Don't stress that hip too much, though :)
Many Stihl Saws-16"-60"
"Go Ask The Other Master Chief"
18-Wheeler Driver

thecfarm

After the elm has set outside a year it will split a lot easier. When I was,splitting with iron wedges,my Father would just leave the elm out by the wood shed in stove length. Than a year later we would split it.I can still hear him say,to get the life out of it.It would split very easy than.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

beenthere

The 20 yrs I split by hand (splitting maul), I would leave the blocks stand on end (that were not split fresh sawn). The exposed end would dry out some, while the end on the ground would not.
Then come splitting time, I found it much easier to split by turning the wet end up. Didn't absorb the maul impact nor let the maul bounce back when swinging.  That was with red and white oak, and elm.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Left Coast Chris

One way around the issue of split now or later is to employ a log splitter.  Ever since we purchased a 26 ton log splitter there was no more worry about splitability.  It will shear through crotches large knots and I have not had any wood stand up to it.  With older body joints now, it has been a God send and well worth the cost over the years.  :)
Home built cantilever head, 24 HP honda mill, Case 580D, MF 135 and one Squirel Dog Jack Russel Mix -- Crickett

SwampDonkey

I would split it now, but I'm saying that from the stand point that I have a basement furnace. I like slabbed sugar maple and beech. Nice and heavy, you can feel the BTU's permeating from each piece. ;D :D :D  ;) 

I also have a wood splitter, but mine is delivered all slabbed. ;D
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

Al_Smith

Yeah with a hydraulic spliiter there's not much need to even be concerned how easily it splits .For that matter if you pound steel weedges you can split anything too it just takes more effort .

doctorb

I've got a splitter and will do so.  The question now becomes where to put it.  If that's my biggest problem, I don't have one.  :D. Thanks. 
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

thecfarm

Always a reason to add on isn't there.  ;D
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

stumper

Do not leave either sitting on the ground.  The maple will tend to rot and the black locust will sprout and grow.  Black Locust is as bad as willow.  Nice rot resistant wood but it sprouts awfull.  Farmer say that if you use it for fence posts you need to be sure to put it in the ground upside down or you will have a tree.

Kansas

Its already September. That wood won't deteriorate much going into winter. I would split the maple till you run out of room, then let the rest lay. Split the rest when you use up enough wood to make room.

Al_Smith

Just for the record the black locust I know about was once used for fence posts .It isn't as rot resistant as osage orange but it holds up very well . Fact during pioneer days the wood was used for door jambs and widow framing because once dry it's pretty stable and holds up to weather .They also used green black locust pegs to pin together post and beam barns and such .

There's a vast difference between black locust and honey locust .The later grows thorns that look like small elk antlers .Poke a hole in a tractor tire as easy as saying Jack Robinson whoever he is .

stumper

I would prefer to use Osage Orange for my fence posts but the supply here is Maine is extremely limited (it does not grow here ;D) so we use cedar and black locust.

Al_Smith

I imagine so .Osage orange which is commonly called hedge apple is native to the plain states .As near as I can tell it became popular in the mid to late 1800's as a living fence  in the more easternly or great lakes staes .You don't find much in these parts now of days .

Catalpa however was planted in tight groves to serve the same purpose which might sound very strange .Those planted groves are all but gone now also .Fact the fences themselves are all but non existant .What at one time was 20 to 40 acre fields are now a couple hundred .The only way to tell the property lines are by markers in the fields  in some places .Just the changing methods of agriculture .

Not much to do with splitting firewood ,just fence post trivia .

SwampDonkey

I have found a good many white cedar rail fence lines put there over 100 years ago, still in tact to mark the property lines. :) Around here, they are only gone from the farms because my father and other farmers removed them all for kindling wood in stoves. And many farms where accumulated and the fence rows removed for more field acreage. Several farms dad had were 2 to 4 farms wide. Settlement in the area and original grants gave 100 acres for every 10 acres of farm cleared.  ;)
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

ken999

No sense in handling it twice. Finish out your 2012 wood with it and let the rest lay until next spring when you have some shed space...it'll be fine....

Al_Smith

Why would you have to put it in a shed ? A shed is where you put the shovels and rakes,chainsaws and lawn mowers .

Mad Professor

Stack it and cover the top.

Save some straight  4" limbs to put the stack on.

Local lumber store has used lumber covers free.

By next fall it will be nearly dry as split.

Al_Smith

Just for one winter you don't even have to cover it if you didn't want to .It might not be a bad idea to cover that maple though .Actually that maple would probabley burn about Feb if it were covered during the fall rains .

doctorb

Al- 

My OWB is also in the shed.  Open on 2 sides with windows and a sliding door on the other 2. I put it in the shed so my wood stays dry, and so do I, when I am loading all winter.  As i have a 2300, i also have lights, including a spotlight into the firebox, so i can see what i am doing.  I have space for about 16 cords there, when stacked up to 6-7 feet high.  I move it in after it's been stacked and split outdoors uncovered for a season.  It continues to dry in the shed, but I have not yet determined if it dries there as well as when it's exposed to more sun and wind.  I think most of us OWB guys have developed some routine to make the process as efficient as possible.
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

Al_Smith

Well since you mention OWB and 16 cords I think I get the big picture now . :D Nice set up but they really like wood .I know a guy on the other side of Ohio that used to use 22 cords a year .Oh about 4 or 5 times my consumption .

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