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hard to start husky

Started by Buck, September 02, 2011, 08:52:10 PM

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Buck

Got an older Husky saw that has to be pulled till you wear yourself out but when it starts it is great.  Not sure of model but is smaller consumer grade and is old enough not to have the primer bulb. Any ideas on how to make it easier to start?
Respect is earned. Honesty is appreciated. Trust is gained. Loyalty is returned.

Live....like someone left the gate open

ladylake


Make sure the choke is closing all the way, if so open the low adjuster about 1/4 turn. You might have to turn the idle speed adjust in a bit after that as it should slow your saw down a bit.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Buck

This is for a friend having trouble, thanks I will pass this on to him. My Stihls don't give me trouble. 8)
Respect is earned. Honesty is appreciated. Trust is gained. Loyalty is returned.

Live....like someone left the gate open

Al_Smith

Keepem long enough they will . ;)

Buck

I knew that comment wouldn't last long before I got a reply. ;D
Respect is earned. Honesty is appreciated. Trust is gained. Loyalty is returned.

Live....like someone left the gate open

beenthere

I've semi-retired my 1975 041 Stihl, but it still starts and runs fine. Finally had to replace the original Windsor bar. Went through a couple dozen chains,  one was roughed up on an insulator and another rocked on a rock. Its been a true runner year after year. But not run steady, just an average of 12-14 cords a year, although there is a lot of chainsaw use bucking up those cords.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Dan_Shade

painting the handle white should make it work better   ;D
Woodmizer LT40HDG25 / Stihl 066 alaskan
lots of dull bands and chains

There's a fine line between turning firewood into beautiful things and beautiful things into firewood.

acco1840

Quote from: beenthere on September 03, 2011, 07:08:18 PM
I've semi-retired my 1975 041 Stihl, but it still starts and runs fine. Finally had to replace the original Windsor bar. Went through a couple dozen chains,  one was roughed up on an insulator and another rocked on a rock. Its been a true runner year after year. But not run steady, just an average of 12-14 cords a year, although there is a lot of chainsaw use bucking up those cords.

Dont suppose you want another 041 for parts?? I had a great little one untill it fell off my truck and I ran over it :'(. Still runs, but is kinda broken casing wise....

w8ye

Quote from: ladylake on September 02, 2011, 09:20:40 PM

Make sure the choke is closing all the way, if so open the low adjuster about 1/4 turn. You might have to turn the idle speed adjust in a bit after that as it should slow your saw down a bit.   Steve

+

I have personally found this technique to be "spot on" in making them a little easier to start.
Stihl FS-55R, HS-80-R-24
Echo PB 2400, SRM 2100 SRM 2400

woodzy88

I run a 395 and a 390 husky and seem to have to replace the sparkplugs every 3 weeks or so or they are hard to start. There doesn't seem to be anything wrong with the plugs but the new ones start better . I've also started running a product called Envirotab . Its a pill you put in the fuel made here in New Zealand and the saws start better and run cooler plus rev easyer. I run it in all my equipment including my Mahoe sawmill ,ZX200 excavtor, trucks ,Loaders and runabouts. Every vehical has go better .
woodzy88

doneastman

...got a Husky 359.  After a year or so it got harder and harder to start.  I took it to a local small engine repair shop but I got the impression (after listening to them tinker with it) that they really didn't know what they were doing.  After the got "through" with it they said it should work OK but when I got it home it resorted to acting like it did before.  I then heard of an old timer small engine repairman that lived way out in the country.  I decided to give him a try.  He kept it for about a week and when I picked it up it ran perfectly and hasn't let me down since.  The trick????....he said that on Husky's, if you run the fuel rich on gas (not enough oil in gas) that the ring on the piston can stick in close to the cylinder thus not giving the machine any compression.  He took the head off, unstuck the ring, oiled it a little, cleaned out the ring groove, oiled it, put everything back together and BEHOLD!....no more hard starting.  He said to add a little extra oil to the gas and that should cure the hard starting problem.  Might smoke a little on occasion but as long as you don't add too much extra oil....no problemo!!!!!  I did as he suggested and I haven't had a hard start since!

clww

That's a great explanation!
Many Stihl Saws-16"-60"
"Go Ask The Other Master Chief"
18-Wheeler Driver

Al_Smith

After a while once they get a little age on them they don't want to suck fuel out of the tank on a cold start .Could be any number of things but usually just stiff diaphragm and fuel pump checks .

A lot of them including some I own if you prime them with a squirt bottle a couple of times after they get a full fuel chamber  they run fine the rest of the day .

The components of the carb,diaphragms etc are made of buna-n material which is pretty much robust with gasoline .However with the ethanol in the gas they tend to get a tad stiff .A majorty of the rebuilt kits if they were made in the last few years use a material that with stands ethanol but if it's an older OEM type they often do not ,still buna n .However even at that most times a carb rebuild will ease the pain of the shoulders and arms on this starting business at least for a while .

sharkey

I worked on one the other day which had the original black rubber fuel pump diaphragm in the carb.  Between that hard rubber pump diaphragm and the stiff metering diaphragm it would have taken someone a week to start this one.  I kitted the carb plus replaced the fuel filter and the lines.  She is now a three pull starter from stone cold.  I guess them new Buna diaphragms really make a difference?  Carb wasnt dirty or corroded, just had sat up for some time. 

John Mc

Quote from: sharkey on October 09, 2011, 06:59:54 PM
I guess them new Buna diaphragms really make a difference?

I thought the buna-n was the old style?
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Al_Smith

Actually it is .The newer kits use a plastic type material for the check valves and a somewhat softer material for the diaphragm .I might also add that the last few OEM Stihl seals I bought had a slightly different material other than the old standard black buna n .They were a bluish color .

Now mind you buna n will still work it just won't last as long with the ethanol in the gasoline .

Now the better check valves used on Walbros seem to last but the diaphragms still get stiff so if you rebuild the carb you'd just as well change the whole thing .Those checks were a harder yellow stuff .Some had the same stuff with a buna n under them .It gets confusing depending on the carb .

acco1840

Agreed with the carb adjusting that others have said, but also my old 394 wont run an old spark plug. Had to use new one every month. Put old plug in my 070 and it went first go.

Al_Smith

I'd imagine that 394 had a ton more compression than the 070 .The 070 could have had a hotter ignition as well .

mad murdock

On the oil/gas mix equation- I run 32:1 on all my saws, old and new.  It may smoke a bit, but in the summer, it is good bug repellent.  never had an oil fouled plug, and when I am running it hard, I don't have to worry about running it too hot.  Always starts easy, and no premature engine wear.  I know that the Stihl oil when used in a Stihl recommends 50:1, but IMO that is too little oil.  Oil is cheap compared to an engine repair bill.  The other important part of the equation, DO NOT USE ETHANOL BLENDED GAS!!  If at all possible, get non-ethanol straight gas.
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

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