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Enclosures

Started by leeallen, September 02, 2011, 06:52:29 AM

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leeallen

I am getting ready to build an enclosure over my Thomas 6013. Any ideas or pictures that might guide me in the right direction? Thanks

thecfarm

Good one. I wished I would of done that with mine years ago. Not to late now,but too late to keep it from having rust on it. I keep thinking about it. The opening for the logs will be the hardest part. I thought about putting a post in and removing it when I was sawing. I would make it big enough to keep some lumber in it too. Always need a 2 by or a board.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

SamB

Two more important factors to consider, ventilation and sawdust removal, IMO nothing less than a 10 foot ceiling.

Chuck White

Quote from: thecfarm on September 02, 2011, 06:59:49 AM
Good one. I wished I would of done that with mine years ago. Not to late now,but too late to keep it from having rust on it. I keep thinking about it. The opening for the logs will be the hardest part. I thought about putting a post in and removing it when I was sawing. I would make it big enough to keep some lumber in it too. Always need a 2 by or a board.


Being in "snow country", the post idea under the roll-way opening would be a real good idea, especially if you're going to be sawing 16' stuff.  That would mean at least an 18' and possibly 20' opening.

Myself, I don't saw in the winter, so my mill just gets parked in the back bay of my garage!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

logwalker

How about a simple doghouse at the end of the track that it could pull into?
Let's all be careful out there tomorrow. Lt40hd, 22' Kenworth Flatbed rollback dump, MM45B Mitsubishi trackhoe, Clark5000lb Forklift, Kubota L2850 tractor

250quality

Thi is what I'm using and works good for me.




OneWithWood

Here is the story of my enclosure

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,1400.0.html

There are pics of a couple of other members buildings imbedded in the thread as well.
One With Wood
LT40HDG25, Woodmizer DH4000 Kiln

redbeard

 







I chose a cantliever type cover so i could load larger logs and use support equipment.
Whidbey Woodworks and Custom Milling  2019 Cooks AC 3662T High production band mill and a Hud-son 60 Diesel wide cut bandmill  JD 2240 50hp Tractor with 145 loader IR 1044 all terrain fork lift  Cooks sharp

paul case

i am into used stuff, so naturally my saw shed would be an old used chicken house. this is the outside.



and this is the inside.




pc
life is too short to be too serious. (some idiot)
2013 LT40SHE25 and Riehl edger,  WM 94 LT40 hd E15. Cut my sawing ''teeth'' on an EZ Boardwalk
sawing oak.hickory,ERC,walnut and almost anything else that shows up.
Don't get phylosophical with me. you will loose me for sure.
pc

jdonovan

Quote from: leeallen on September 02, 2011, 06:52:29 AM
Any ideas or pictures that might guide me in the right direction? Thanks

Gettting ready to do the same thing for my mill.

Here's what I've found.

The easiest way to get an open side for log loading is to set the mill parallel with the roof trusses. With roof trusses you can easily get 30' clear span, and quite a bit more if you want to get into the big trusses. Problem there is if your material flow is off the end of the mill, your pulling the cut boards out of the side of the building. If you unload off the side, then it may be less of an issue.

The other way to go is to put the mill so the loading comes from the side of the building. Then the problem is getting a strong/stiff enough header to span 16-24 feet... depending on how long a log you want to be able to bring in. I'm having a hard time finding any designs, or span tables that EVEN address a 20-24' opening. Most end at 18'.

I know many folks here have built shed and it has worked for them so-far. I'm less than fully willing to put a 40K machine under a shed that was engineered based on a guess at the loads and stresses. As I've been working out the loads on the various poles, girts, etc... I've been surprised at just how much load is at various beams and poles in the design. I live in an area where we get some significant snows in the winter, so I need to ensure that the proper design has been done so the roof and headers can hold the snows.


250quality

I put my mill paralell to the trusses as you said and have all the opening I could ever need. Left the back open and a 16 foot door on the front. I have an 8 foot opening on the side at the end of the mill and thinking about now putting another 8 foot opening at the head of the mill. These are easily sealed up with one iece garage doors and some barn door track.
Find some trusses that didn't work out for someone and thats the cheapest and safest solution.
I bought a 28 foot set for 200 bucks. Easier for for truss company to get something for them then pay to cut them up.

Peder McElroy

 





This is my Millshed for my Lucas mill. Front opening is 16' wide and I should have made it 18' for a 16' log,live and learn. I also have a set of double doors @ the off load area for my forklift and works great.

bandmiller2

250Quality,nice looking mill how did you take the crown out of those steel roof trusses.My first circular mill used those trusses and was semi portable.Found straightening by eye was more accurate than a stretched wire.Made cuts in the bottom rail and tapped in screwdrivers then reweld. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

250quality

It just came that way. Someone else built it a number of years back but when I set it up I checked it with the laser and it's just about perfect so I guess he did ok. Only trouble I had was I bent the cross members a little with some giant red oak. Took a while but managed to straighten and re-support with a steel beam down the middle.

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