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husqvarna 359 chain brake not working (free saw)

Started by caveman, August 26, 2011, 10:22:55 PM

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caveman

Today I got a free husqvarna 359.  A family friend bought it several years ago to cut down one problem tree.  The saw seems to have very little use but the chain brake band does not clamp tight enough to stop or even slow the chain.  I have looked at the mechanism and it seems like if it would take up more slack in the band it would work.  The handle does not solidly lock in or out like on other saws I have used.  Do any of you have suggestions to offer?  With just a little tinkering the saw fired up. 
Thanks,
Caveman
Caveman

NCFarmboy

Maybe this will help.  Could be a problem with the catch.
Shep
Lots & Lots of Saws

caveman

Thank you for the guidance.  I will read through it and see if I can figure out the problem.  Caveman
Caveman

maple flats

if that doesn't do it, look for sawdust preventing the band from tightening. As long as the band or the fitting that activates it are not broken the problem should be just crud. If any parts are broken, take it to a dealer for repair.
A 359 is a good saw. It will handle bars up to 24" but if you do a lot of cutting over 20" you might do better with a bigger saw. I use mine with a 20" bar and use a bigger saw when needed. Great price!!!
logging small time for years but just learning how,  2012 36 HP Mahindra tractor, 3point log arch, 8000# class excavator, lifts 2500# and sets logs on mill precisely where needed, Woodland Mills HM130Max , maple syrup a hobby that consumes my time. looking to learn blacksmithing.

caveman

Thanks, Maple Flats.  I looked at the chain brake on a Husqvarna 350 today at work and it seemed to be exactly the same as the one on the 359.  The one thing that I noticed on the one at work was the crispness of the mechanism when applying the brake.  I did not have time to tinker with the 359 today and am looking a 15 hour day dead in the face tomorrow.  Hopefully on Wednesday I will get a chance to look at it.  I thoroughly cleaned the clutch cover and and brake assembly.  Heck, I may go check on it now.  I don't have to get up until 5 a.m.   
Caveman

caveman

I went back out to the shop last night around 11 and took the chain brake assembly back apart and noticed that it was missing a spring.  I do not know how I missed it earlier.  It should be a simple fix.  Thank you to those who provided assistance.  Caveman
Caveman

w8ye

Examine your brake band carefully for evidence that it is seated properly inside the cover and rests against the tabs. You are looking to make sure there are not any worn spots on this band and that it is not twisted from someone trying to pry the cover off with the brake clamped tight on the clutch.

Replacing the "over center spring" (503 46 59-01) is man's work. The dealer will have to order the spring for you.

You need a "tool" which amounts to a device like a file handle with a piece of 3/16" steel rod inside it which sticks out about 1 1/4". This piece of rod keeps the spring from bending and the handle is something to push with. If you try to insert the spring without this tool, you will figure out what I'm talking about.

it will take both hands to push on the spring to get it inside the cover so the cover will need to be supported in a vice. Put some rags over the vice jaws so as not to mar the finish on the clutch cover.

Once you get the edge of the spring caught in the back side of the cover, you will need to hold it down with one hand while you put the spring cover and the four screws back in. Leave the cover in the vice as there is more work to be done to it.

Then comes the problem of "cocking" the spring. . . .

Remove the brake leaver from the top of the saw. Use this lever to cock the over center mechanism in the chain cover.
Holding the lever with both hands, engage the connecting dog of the lever with the one on the over center mechanism of the cover and while pressing the two together firmly, release the brake. The brake must be released before you can get the brake band in the cover - over the brake bell housing.

Now install the lever back on the saw and also the clutch cover.

Check the action of the mechanism. Before running the saw . . .  Trip the brake and see if you can pull on the chain and move it? Release the brake and see if you can move the chain? Now check the action of the brake with the saw running.

Someone had this all apart before and due to the difficulty of installing the spring, they left it out?

If you are not a determined mechanic, you may want the dealer to install the spring for you?

Stihl FS-55R, HS-80-R-24
Echo PB 2400, SRM 2100 SRM 2400

caveman

I finally got my spring yesterday as it was a back ordered item and I waited a while to order it.  To install the spring, I used a pair of closed needle nose pliers pushed inside the end of the spring.  It did require a little effort to compress it enough to fit it in.  After several minutes of messing around with it, the chain brake spring was installed and the new chain mounted.  I was anxious to make a cut.  The saw cut well and seemed to have good power in the two test cuts in SYP.  This was a saw that the guy who gave it to me was evidently told by a dealer in Orlando that the carburetor was no good and there are not replacements available.  He and I will now both have a good saw to use.  It starts easily and seems like it will be a good running saw.  My 16 year old daughter even started it today.  Thank you again to those of you who coached me through this repair.  The saw is not free anymore.  I spent about $140 on chains, files, a longer bar and a spring.    Caveman
Caveman

NCFarmboy

I made a chain brake cocking tool using a scrench.  There are six sides cut out every other wall about 1/2" deep to fit over cocking wheel.  Hope this wasn't confusing.  To simplify put 3/4" 19mm side of scrench on top of the cocking wheel (three prongs) and you will see which ones to cut out.  Works great. I cut my first one with my plasma cutter (in a hurry lady was in shop waiting).  Gave it to her in case she did it again.  Next one I cut with Dremel and cutter wheels for a nicer job.
Shep
Lots & Lots of Saws

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