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Woodmizer resharp

Started by Jeremy2200, August 15, 2011, 06:20:44 PM

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Jeremy2200

Finally had to send some blades back for sharpening. My question is are the blades supposed to be as good as new when you get em back. The first one I put on only lasted a short while and when I changed it the next one was like I had tried to saw metal with it. I think it was sharper when I sent it in than when I got it back. The next one got me through the day and I'll see tomorrow about some more. I'm going to do some checking on getting them sharpened in Memphis. I it in shipping and sharpening was around $125 or so. It may be better to just buy new blades???

Jeff

Did you call re-sharp with your concerns before you posted here?
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Jeremy2200

I havent called them i was going to get some input before i did to see if my expectations were just too high or what. This is the first batch i sent back and i didnt know what to expect. Going to try some more blades tomorrow and see what happens

Jeff

I've had brand spanking new blades go down after a couple cuts after hitting crud that I didn't see, and never found, but looking at the teeth it was obvious I hit something. If you are certain the teeth did not get damaged some how under your watch, you should address your concerns first to re-sharp.

Its pretty obvious that people that use re-sharp have confidence and good experience with the blades or they would not be sharpening tens of thousands of them. What you should expect is sharp blades, if that's not what you have make a phone call. Take another fresh one and examine it before you use it. Before you even unfold it.

Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Dave Shepard

I find that the bands that come back from ReSharp are great. I send all my bands back, without sorting them. Sometimes I'll get one back that was probably shot, and should have been tossed. It will leave deep cuts from a few teeth that are set too wide. I don't believe the sharpening machinery knows if they are set too wide. If you have a band that you know has hit something, or is cutting really badly, like worse than just dull, you can put a tag on it for the ReSharp people so they can look at it up close. I'll never sharpen a band as long as I have ReSharp available to me.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

POSTON WIDEHEAD

I had this happen to before, in fact last week. My re-sharp blade only lasted less than 210 bf sawing white oak. I did not hear it, or feel it hit anything. I was using the right blade lube and sawing at a reasonable speed for white oak. All of a sudden the blade wanted to dive,
I took the blade off, sat down with a ice cold Mountain Dew and took my time and looked at each tooth.
Sure enough I had hit something.....evidently it was small because my metal detector didn't pick it up.
I had several teeth damaged on my blade and never even knew it.
Since this was my log and not a customers.....it is now firewood.

This is just my experience....yours may vary.

******I could not survive without re-sharp, I have no complaints********
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

pnyberg

Once in a while I get a blade that doesn't last as long as it should before I don't like the way it's cutting.  It's possible that something went wrong in the ReSharp process, but I think it's far more likely that it was dulled by whatever I was cutting through.  I don't spend much time worrying about it.  I put a fresh blade on and keep sawing.

I wouldn't start jumping to conclusions based on your experience with one blade.

--Peter
No longer milling

Bibbyman

We've had thousands of blades sharpened by Resharp and not had one that came back so out of whack as it wouldn't cut well.  I have put on new or ReSharp blades and hit something right off the bat and that was it.  We will hope that your experience was one of those things.

If the blade looks and feels sharp, about the only other thing it could be is bad set.  Do you have a gauge to check the set?  If not,  if you look close straight down at the teeth, two teeth should be bent left and right about half the thickness of the blade.  Check several places.  If there is set on one side and none on the other, the blade will dive.

If they continue to give you problems, put a new blade on if you have one and see if maybe there is not a problem with your mill alignment or main belt tension.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

bandmiller2

I don't do resharp I do mesharp so I only have one dude to blame for poor cutting.Really though its so easy to run through grit and gravel in the bark that will take the keen right off a fresh band.Check your outher resharped bands as you mount them if its a recuring problem call  WM.The resharps I have used when I ran the LT-70 seemed equal to new. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

bugdust

My experience with Resharp has always great. Sure there may be certain blades that get more bdft than others but it's usually due to an ovesight of foreign materials. The debarker is truly a plus for getting the most production from any blade, but it's not perfect, just close.
Since I retired I really like work: It fascinates me. I can sit and look at it for hours.

ARKANSAWYER

  Well I have gotten blades back from Re-Sharp that was not sharp or set right.  I sent them back in the box with a note and it came back free and right.  But then I send them lots and lots of blades and over the years I bet I have not had a dozen blades come back not up to snuff.  Most of the time they cut smoother and better then when brand new.  When I need a smooth cut I put on a resharp blade.
  Chances are it was the log but if the job was poorly done they will make it right given a chance.  Looking at the other blades will tell you if the grind was good.
ARKANSAWYER

Jeremy2200

Thanks everyone for your replys. I know with woodmizer's reputation all it would take would be a phone call but i am going back to the big pile of red oaks tomorrow. Hopefull it was just a fluke or something in the first log i dove into.
Thanks.

I have a post a few down that i would like some input on about the price of red oak

Dave Shepard

Let us know how you make out.  :)
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

Magicman

After a bad experience with a local sharpener within a very few weeks of buying the sawmill, I started using ReSharp.  I have never used anything but ReSharp since then.  I doubt that I have gotten ½ dozen back that were anything less than new blade quality.  I'm sure that those issues were caused by my previous activity such as hitting something.  I have never gotten a dull blade back.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

GeneH

I've used Resharp ever since I've been sawing. Most seemed to cut better than new blades. I have had a tooth or two not set right, always the outside blade in the box. Figured it was damaged in shipping.

Jeremy2200

Used 2 more blades yesterday out of the resharp box. The first one worked like a dream, I think it was sharper than a new one. The next one i didn't even get to saw 1    22" red oak and it needed to come off it was diving real bad. Im stumped???????

Magicman

Sounds like dirt.  Do you have a Debarker?  Dirty log ends?
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Jeremy2200

No debarker. There is a some dirt on the logs but they all pretty much have the same amount on them and i am. Magic man since you are in MS will you give me your input on my post under this one about stacking red oak without stickering until i get it home and tell me what you think with our humidity we have here

WDH

I wash the mud and dirt off all the logs that I saw.  It only takes one clump of mud or dirt to dull a blade.  That sounds like your problem. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Magicman

You have got to get that dirt off.  Even with a Debarker, I use these to clean the log ends, etc. Any dirt that you can see is too much.   :o



Notice the worn out brush.

I did not weigh in on your lumber stacking question because I have never dead stacked oak.  My answer would have been an opinion and not based on experience, but since you ask, I would "rough sticker" it on the trailer.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

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