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linseed oil /Tung oil floor finish?

Started by shinnlinger, August 02, 2011, 08:27:52 PM

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shinnlinger

Hi,

I'm about to put some finish on some PINE flooring I put down.  IN a a perfect world I would have put down another species of wood and another surface coating, but my funds are extremely limited  and I happen to have 2 gallons of boiled linseed oil and 1 gallon of raw linseed oil.  I would like to mix the 3 together with 3 gallons of paint thinner or citrus solvent and add Japan drier and use that as the first coat just to let the wood soak it up so I can use less Tung oil .  I will then cover with coats of thinned tung oil.

THe main purpose for the linseed oil is I already own it but I wont use it if it is foolhardy to do so.

THoughts????
Shinnlinger
Woodshop teacher, pasture raised chicken farmer
34 horse kubota L-2850, Turner Band Mill, '84 F-600,
living in self-built/milled timberframe home

DouginUtah


All I can say is my experience has been that raw linseed oil takes forever to dry.

I'm sure someone with more experience or technical knowledge will add to this.
-Doug
When you hang around with good people, good things happen. -Darrell Waltrip

There is no need to say 'unleaded regular gas'. It's all unleaded. Just say 'regular gas'. It's not the 70s anymore. (At least that's what my wife tells me.)

---

WDH

I share Doug's concern, but I do not have any actual experience with Linseed oil on a wood floor.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

shinnlinger

My thought is that mixing the raw with the boiled and then thinning it 50% and then adding Japan drier will help with the drying issue. 
Shinnlinger
Woodshop teacher, pasture raised chicken farmer
34 horse kubota L-2850, Turner Band Mill, '84 F-600,
living in self-built/milled timberframe home

Ed

Linseed oil won't provide any protection for the wood. The local tavern tried it.....looked like crap in 1 week.

Ed

shinnlinger

I realize the linseed oil wont do much, I am only thinking of using it because I have some and so the wood wont soak up as much tung.  I will follow up with tung oil as stated in my first post.

Dave
Shinnlinger
Woodshop teacher, pasture raised chicken farmer
34 horse kubota L-2850, Turner Band Mill, '84 F-600,
living in self-built/milled timberframe home

Ed

You don't want Tung oil either.
Oil finishes do not build up enough film on the surface to provide protection like a polyurethane will.

Ed

Dodgy Loner

Ed, that depends. Much of what is sold as "Tung Oil" is actually thinned polyurethane. If the can says something like "100% Tung Oil", then that's what it is. But if it says something like "Tung Oil Finish", then it's just a thinned polyurethane product. I would advise against using it on a floor, however, simply because you're not getting as much bang for your buck. You can buy plain old polyurethane, thin it 50% with mineral spirits and end up with the same thing (or at least something very similar). Or you can do what I do - use the polyurethane undiluted to finish your floor. That would be my recommendation.
"There is hardly anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price only are this man's lawful prey." -John Ruskin

Any idiot can write a woodworking blog. Here's mine.

shinnlinger

THe problem with poly is that I am doing this on pine.  No matter what I do it will dent and scratch.  I feel an oil will roll with the abuse better and certainly be easier to recoat a few years from now....
Shinnlinger
Woodshop teacher, pasture raised chicken farmer
34 horse kubota L-2850, Turner Band Mill, '84 F-600,
living in self-built/milled timberframe home

DouginUtah


Some poly finishes are very tough.

Try a google search for 'gym floor polyurethane'.

An example:

http://www.goldstarproducts.net/obj%5CuploadedImages%5C128web1171592707.pdf

(For use on softwood floors.)
-Doug
When you hang around with good people, good things happen. -Darrell Waltrip

There is no need to say 'unleaded regular gas'. It's all unleaded. Just say 'regular gas'. It's not the 70s anymore. (At least that's what my wife tells me.)

---

SwampDonkey

I wouldn't use the linseed oil or Tung oil combination on the floor neither. A water-based poly product is Gymcoat as well, I've heard of it used up here a lot. Not sure what they recommend for wood species, could check it out online.

To get the raw linseed oil into the wood you need to thin it with turpentine 50%, apply, let stand for a few minutes and wipe excess off. Do two coats, and dry 24 hours each after wiping down. Then apply a third coat full strength and wipe down after a few minutes and dry 24 hours. If you don't wipe the excess each coat you will have a sticky mess. I have used this method on small wood projects and I have never had it go sticky. Used on cherry, walnut, birch, ash. I would not attempt a floor, no way.
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

Sprucegum

I used Tung oil on my red oak floor - rubbed it in with a hand sander and then an oil based varnish (can't remember the name of it) finish.

No dogs and no shoes allowed so it still looks good 15 years later.

Carpenter

     I think it will work just fine.  I'm not a fan of polyurethane finishes although I do use them occasionally.  I prefer an oil finish.  I make muzzleloaders occasionally, when I have the time.  A very good finish for  the guns is several coats of thined boiled linseed oil followed by a couple of coats of formbys low gloss toung oil.  Thin the linseed oil about 50/50 with turpintine I have found that mineral spirits doesn't work very well.  I have tried the raw linseed oil before and like everybody has said takes forever to dry.  It might be worth a try though.  '
     As far as an oil finish on a floor, one that I have seen and would like to try one of these days is just a mineral oil finish.  Evidently it takes a lot of coats, but the oil is supposed to really soak in and not show wear like a polyurethaned floor.  Personally to me polyurethane usually looks like a thin layer of plastic over the wood.  It does have it's place of course.  But, I think anytime you can get a finish into the wood and harden rather than just a surface finish you are better off. 

SwampDonkey

Carpenter, I appreciate your using linseed and tung on gun stocks but the work it would involve on a floor would deter a sane man.
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

frwinks

from what I read, hard coat poly coatings and soft pine floors do not mix well.  It will peel up/crack where the floor is dented or even with seasonal movement.  Reason why century homes with wide plank pine floors have been oiled for generations.  Some stories have it that "oiling of the floors" was a chore nobody wanted in the household and was often given to a child as punishment.  If the kids were good, the wife got stuck doing the job on Sundays after church.   Them 'ol times 'eh  :D
I just layed down a white pine plank floor/ceiling for our loft.  It took a couple of full days to plane and t 'n g it, then about 15hrs to face nail it.  I still have to hand scrape it before finally oiling it.     




SwampDonkey

I suspect using linseed oil will make a mighty slick (slippery) floor. I know what it does to small wood working projects, it turns the wood quite slippery and smooth for a spell until it dries really well for a few days or weeks. You may even find yourself wiping it down several times for the first couple days as it will bleed from the wood.
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

WDH

Fr,

That is a great looking floor/ceiling!
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

5quarter

If you need to use the linseed oil, do it this way:

Mix linseed oil, mineral spirits and a spar or alkalyd-resin varnish in a 4:4:1 mix. No dryer. Brush on a generous coat and let dry for a few days. light sand and tack. mix another batch at 8:8:1, add a little dryer if you want and apply as many caots as you see fit (2-3 would be good). after full cure (2 weeks min.) follow up with a few coats of floor wax to bring up the gloss. should offer good protection from water and wear and is pretty easily maintained. can give you more details if you nedd them

Chet
What is this leisure time of which you speak?
Blue Harbor Refinishing

shinnlinger

Thanks guys,

I will now skip the linseed oil and do at least one coat of tung oil thinned to 50% and top it with "Hard wax oil"
Shinnlinger
Woodshop teacher, pasture raised chicken farmer
34 horse kubota L-2850, Turner Band Mill, '84 F-600,
living in self-built/milled timberframe home

beenthere

south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

WDH

I love Danish Oil (an oil and varnish mixture with dryers added).  My go-to finish on walnut and cherry is one coat of danish oil allowed to dry completely followed by 2 coats of a satin polyurethane.  The oil really brings out the beauty of the wood and the poly adds protection since it is a film coat.  Oil penetrates the wood and does not form a good surface film.  So, in combo, if you let the oil thoroughly dry, danish oil and satin polyurethane are a nice, beautiful, and durable finish.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

tomsteve

i've done BLO a few times at owners request and personally like it. no, its not durable, but  doing any repairs to the finish is extremely easy: just add more. the floors were less slick than most finished floors i have walked on in socks. i like the look of old pine floors that have been maintained with BLO. lots of character.

SwampDonkey

I apply the linseed oil with turpentine to get it into the wood with a couple diluted mixtures and then full linseed at the end. It makes wood smooth like skin. I apply it like the article says, you have to wipe it down good. That's what most people don't do well and make a mess. Sometimes you get back seep from the wood and have to wipe it more. Not too much pain on small projects, wouldn't want to do a bigger project than a serving try with linseed treatment though. I plan on using it on some wood gears for a small little device. In this case I don't want it to dry, I want it to act as a lubricant as much as a wood treatment. ;)
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

Stephen1

Quote from: frwinks on August 12, 2011, 10:49:14 AM
from what I read, hard coat poly coatings and soft pine floors do not mix well.  It will peel up/crack where the floor is dented or even with seasonal movement.  Reason why century homes with wide plank pine floors have been oiled for generations.  Some stories have it that "oiling of the floors" was a chore nobody wanted in the household and was often given to a child as punishment.  If the kids were good, the wife got stuck doing the job on Sundays after church.   Them 'ol times 'eh  :D
I just layed down a white pine plank floor/ceiling for our loft.  It took a couple of full days to plane and t 'n g it, then about 15hrs to face nail it.  I still have to hand scrape it before finally oiling it.     


A beautiful hob.
I`m glad I found this link, I am in the middle of the same project in the cabin , floor almost finished, and now have to think about a finish.
I do notice the planed pine has an almost waxy feel to it. Because my pine is going in a sleeping loft I like the idea of the BLO.
My question is ...what is scrapping or a better question is why and what do I use to do it. I was going to go over the floor with my palm sander to get the high points smoothed out and remove the mill sheen and then a poly finish.
My Bro-inlaw a few years ago did a BW floor with a oil and I loved it,
Sorry to post in your link....but it seemed like a good spot to continue the discussion
IDRY Vacum Kiln, LT40HDWide, BMS250 sharpener/setter 742b Bobcat, TCM forklift, Sthil 026,038, 461. 1952 TEA Fergusan Tractor

Walnut Beast

Linseed oil one part to two parts mineral spirits works beautiful on walnut wood trailer deck on log trailer.

 

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