Electric Chain Sharpeners or File??

[lostyooper6]

I do most my cutting along roads and in hedgerows, the trees are imbedded with dirt rocks, etc.  Frequently a good chain is almost dull beyond use by th end of my 1st tank of gas.  I bought an electric sharpener from harbor freight and it does an ok job, but still is never as good as a new chain or a good file sharpening.  Am I doing something wrong?  I have also sharpened chains on my neighbors much higher quality electric sharpener with the same effects.  Thoughts, suggestions,advice?

[mad murdock]

nothing works better for me than a file.  I have used electric rotary grinders, i.e. dremel type tools, and a file works way better, chain stays sharper longer, and sharpening goes quicker with a file.  The only machine type sharper that does close to a file is a silvey type grinder setup, which is not quick, since you have to unmount the chain to sharpen it.  Files are cheap as well.  Buy them by the dozen (Bailey's), and use a sharp file to make the job more effective and easier.  If your cutting is in alot of dirt like you say, then stick with a semi-chisel chain, it will not dull as fast as a full chisel tooth, also, if you are in softwood, use a semi-skip or full skip-tooth chain, which will speed up the sharpening process, since you won't have s many cutters to dull.  FWIW

[beenthere]

X2 what mad murdock said.

[Buck]

I have both and a file is the way to go.

[millwright]

I agree with the general opinion of electric vs files. I bought one of the 12v elec grinders and I think I used it 1 time before going back to the file.

[ladylake]

With a good operator either way works fine, bad operator neither way works.   Steve

[WoodHacker]

Happiness is a sharp file.

That said, I have the Oregon 511a chain grinder and it beats the heck out of a file when it comes to regrinding damaged teeth.  If the chain is dull, I use a file.  After hitting a rock or nail, I grind.  Keeping the rakers filed back to the proper level will make those chains cut like new...

[RPF2509]

If you're in the dirt and rock alot a carbide tipped chain might be the ticket.  The drawbacks are expensive and need special tool to resharpen - maybe just stick with a file

[Ianab]

Only time I think an electric sharpener would be better is if you are trying to recover a badly damaged chain, after trying to saw a concrete post, rock, railroad spike etc. When you need to actually hog off a decent chunk of the cutter to get back into clean metal.

If the chain has just gone a bit dull from normal use or dirt in the bark, then the file is basically as quick, and with a bit of practice will give you a better result.

With even a small amount of practice you can get a chain cutting "good as new" with a file and guide. An expert could take a new chain out of the box, file it, and get it cutting "Better than new".

Ian

[John Mc]

I prefer filing, and have found I get better results than taking it to most of the shops around here (some of them are much better than others).

Of course, I don't own an electric sharpener of any sort, and as my tag-line says, "If the only tool you have is a hammer..."

[de-dubya]

I too bought a 12v electric sharpener, thinking it would be better in the field, faster and back in the wood sooner.  Used it one time.  Maybe it was the stones, but 1 stone didn't make it through the first chain.  By the time I finished a 20" loop th estone was way under sized for the cutter.  So it sits in my tool box draw, I removed the saw guide and now use it as a 12v dremel for odds and ends (since it will except all the dremel cutters). 

BTW - 1st post on here, like the looks of this place.

dw

[justintimemoto]

i have a oregon 511ax grinder the only time i use it not is when the chain gets bad from rocks or nails besides that i use a file.......unless i dont know how to use my grinder well ???  for the right angles ?

[thecfarm]

If I had a grinder I would have to learn all over again on how to sharpen a chain. I just do it by hand. After more than 30 years I'm pretty good at it now. The first year was kinda rough. ;D I know what you mean about cutting by the road. When the trim trimmers cut the ROW under the lines they leave the stumps about a foot high.  : But I can't blame them either. Gets them out of the dirt and grit.

[beenthere]

de-dubya 

Welcome to the forum. I've a couple of those stones and had the same experience. Seems with all the gadgets and jigs, I end up back with the hand file and get the chain sharpened better and faster.  I do however like the small jig by Pferd that Husqvarna peddles.

[Johnny]

sometimes the thought of standing there catching up on the filing of 10 chains is too much, so i get out the oregon 12v mini grinder that clamps on the bar, find the nearest thing with a battery, and then with a bit of patience to set it up you can sit there on a stool just nip nip nip, very easy and all teeth about the same length.  this gadget has a wheel and if you're kind you can avoid blueing the tip and it doesn't seem to wear very quick.  just little touch to reshape it with the stone that came with it.  but it does need patience and ain't too robust.  in fact had to customise it a little when it was new to get it to sit right!  but mostly the file and guide (and one of those oregon chain clamps) does the job good.  the mains powered grinders where you can drape the chain over the clamp and grind: they do look like they'd do a good job!

[Al_Smith]

I've got a rotary Dremel type .The only time I use it is on a rocked chain or when I build a race chain .It removes material at a faster rate but the finish is always with a file .

Now on that junk in a fence row find yourself some old fashion chipper chain .I think Carlton might still make it .It doesn't cut as fast as semi chisel or full chisel but it will take more abuse .Baileys may handle it for all I know .

[maple flats]

When I'm cutting I carry a file and sharpen as needed. For my help I keep several spare loops and have them change the chain. Then in the shop I sharpen when I get time and if I have enough to bother with.
For my grinder I use a Maxx and it works very well.

[shelbycharger400]

i use a dremel
not shure where i will get new stones again, but the ones i use came for use in machining aircraft metals (hastelloy)
some are blue.. they last forever and hold their shape until they "gum up" from the oil and pitch, other ones i have are brown and dark red.
the ones you buy in the store are way too soft.

i have found thier is a real science goin on.  i know now what to look for when sharpening,  its best on a sunny day, watch the cutter so it dosnt turn blue,   and watch as the cutter forms a razor edge, and where the "roll back" on the top of the  chain cutter goes away when sharpening.      im using oregon chains on my saws.  sand seems to be the biggest killer in my case.

[shinnlinger]

I am a fan of the file, but I have been known to chuck one in a drill from time to time.

[NCFarmboy]

I am a tool guy!!!  I have a New GB Maxx w/1/8" CBN wheel, Used Foley Belsaw 308 w/3/16" wheel, Used Oregon 511A (on the shelf for sale) , New northern toolhttps://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=position"> Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company 1/4" wheel auto feed for rakers, Dremel, Granberg Dremel style amd 12v dremel style.  If I had to do it again, knowing what I now know I should have sprung for the Silvey.  All do a good job CBN wheel does the best.  Primarily use them for rocked chains.  The main thing with machine grinding is setup, get angles correct.  Use a new chain to set angles.  The angle guides are probably off.  55* 25* 0* seems to be best angles.  Don't take too much off the cutter at the time.  Having said all that a hand file w/ Husky guide for your chain size gives sharpest chain.  Just a note IMO the NT machine is the best bang for the buck.  Use it for rocked then hand file w/guide.
Shep