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roller blade guide adjustment

Started by postville, June 02, 2011, 09:23:49 PM

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postville

In the WM manual it says to set standard roller guides by raising the head to 15 inches of blade height and push the rollers down to set the blade to 14 3/4".
It says the same for adjusting the head tilt, but with 1/16th rise to the outside.
Which is done first? How do you know if the rise is from the rollers or head adjustment? Bob
LT40 25hp Kohler, Gehl 6635, Valby grapple, Ford 4600, Farmi winch, Stihl saws

Tom

The head tilt is supposed to counteract the torque of the engine, as I understand it.  I never did it.

The 1/4 inch that you push the blade down with the guide rollers is not changing the relationship the band has to the bed.  It is still horizontal.  The deflection is to apply pressure to the contact point of the band and roller so that the roller can control the band. It is done as a last thing in the guide adjustment procedure.

tyb525

I wish WM included guides that were height-adjustable. Mine are only angle-adjustable, the height is fixed. I can angle them up or down, but that's useless when you want to adjust the down pressure.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

Magicman

postville, After you make your ¼" downward adjustment, make a cut and then flip your cant 180° and make a cut.  If there is any wedge, make a fine adjustment with the outside roller guide.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Tom

Tyb525,
They do.  Woodmizer guides can be adjusted 6 ways from Sunday.

sparks

With the roller off the blade, the outside measurement should be a 1/16th" higher. This adjustmant is set first. Is called the c-frame tilt. We set the outside a 1/16" higher because if you cut wide boards the head get pulled down on the outside aboy a 1/16".
After you have thew c-frame tilt set correctly now you can deflect the blade. Set the inside of the blade at 15" above the bed rail. Remember you are deflecting the blade a 1/4" downward. So that means to set the inside of the blade to 14-3/4" and the outside to 14-13/16". After you set the deflection then you set the blade so that it is level to enter the long.
\"America will never be destroyed from the outside. If we falter and lose our freedoms, it will be because we destroyed ourselves.\" Abraham Lincoln

tyb525

Tom, the guides on the LT10 aren't the same as the ones on the big mills, it appears.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

Tom

Well, I'll be dogged!   I didn't know that.  :)

tyb525

It's too bad they aren't, but I suppose if I really needed to adjust the downward pressure, I could lower the bandwheels through the tracking adjustment (I think this is possible, I've never tried it)
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

Tom

Do you have a picture of them that you could post?

Dave Shepard

I thought the 1/16" head tilt was the last step in the alignment? I just aligned the mill and BX24 today. I'll have to check the manual tomorrow.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

tyb525

Here are a few pictures of my guides. The band is de-tensioned ;)





LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

Tom

Good pictures.  Those will come in handy to explain other things down the road.  You'll be glad you put them on. I am too.  :)

Hmmm.   I don't see and up/down either.  I can't believe that they want you to use a 20 pound sledge hammer.  :D




tyb525

Yeah, the only up/down adjustment I see is a torch and welder :D

If I loosen the lock nuts and set screws, I can slide then in/out, and change the verticle and horizontal tilt. Even then, it's somewhat difficult to be precise about it.

I found this via a google search for LT10 blade guides. I will say I like Europe's version much, much better!! Especially the adjustable blade guide arm, and the leveling feet for the bed! Looks sturdier to boot!

http://www.woodmizer-europe.com/main/index.aspx?lc=ENU

USA version: http://www.woodmizer.com/us/Products/ManualSawmills/LT10PortableSawmill.aspx
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

logwalker

Why do you want to adjust the downward pressure? Just curious. Joe
Let's all be careful out there tomorrow. Lt40hd, 22' Kenworth Flatbed rollback dump, MM45B Mitsubishi trackhoe, Clark5000lb Forklift, Kubota L2850 tractor

Magicman

What year model is your LT10?  I wonder if that has been upgraded?
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

tyb525

I think its a 2008 or 2009. If you look on WM's American site, the only thing they've updated is the graphics. Everything is physically the same as mine. But Europe's is a lot better it appears ???

I don't necessarily need to adjust the height of the guides right now, however it would be a nice feature if there ever comes a time that I need to re-align the blade parallel with the bed, or just to experiment with differing amounts of pressure and what works bets.

Also, the little needle on the height scale is at it's limit as far as calibration, really they need to be about 1/8" higher than they are, because with the needle adjusted as far as it will go, it's still about 1/8" off (scale reads 1" when really the blade is 1 1/8" from the lowest tooth to the the bed rail), which doesn't affect anything until you get to the last board, then you just drop an extra 1/8" and make a trim cut.. It's not hard to account for, it would just be more convenient. It does make it more confusing if I need to cut from the bottom up or make a specific size cant.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

Magicman

Your blade height adjustment must be in your rollers.  I would also think that whatever holds your height scale might be adjustable. 

I would take a close look at the Owner's Manual for both items.  I'm certainly not familiar at all with any sawmill other than my LT40.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

tyb525

The height scale is glued to a piece of angle iron that is bolted in one spot, no room for adjustment. The rollers supporting the head are also fixed, Ive read the manual cover to cover (not the first time) and I don't see a way to do it. It explains how to square everything up, which I've done before, but there doesn't appear to be any adjustment as far as the guides. I know it's a cheapie mill, but that doesn't mean it doesn't need adjustment now and then.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

Tom

Keep your eyes out for a LT40.  You can adjust them every which-a-way. :D

tyb525

Let's convince Bibby to upgrade to a 70, I'll take his old mill off his hands, no cost to him. I'll even pick it up! ;D
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

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