Slabbing crotches

[woodsy]

I have some walnut crotches that are too big (wide) for my Woodmizer.  I think I might hire someone with a slabber to cut them. 

Before I buck the logs I want to make sure I am cutting a length the slabber can handle.  What is the shortest length a slabber can handle?  Is a three foot long crotch doable? Thanks.

[Ianab]

The only thing that limits you with short pieces is keeping them stable.

Basically the log sits on the ground, as long as it's not so short that it falls over, you can saw it. With really short pieces you could screw some planks to them to keep them stable.

Ian

[terrifictimbersllc]

Agree, while the log is still heavy, so long as it doesn't move, no problem.  Once it gets smaller you'll need need stable heavy cross pieces to mount it on.  The operator can level these bunks with the saw blade first, then the remaining section can be laid on it flat side down, and you can use heavy nails in the bunks (lower than the last cut of course) to wedge or block the piece in tight. 

[woodsy]

That was my concern, stability of a three foot long log resting on the ground as the chain buzzes through it. I wasn't sure if 3' was a total nuisance or not.  Sounds like it is doable.  I only have a few crotches that will be cut at 3' and the rest are much longer.  The 3 footers are pretty wide too.  Thanks for the input.

[woodZwayz]

If there's nobody close by with a slabber, don't know what size saw you got, but you could freehand them and flatten using something like this:
http://theschoolofthetransferofenergy.com/2011/01/29/jig-for-flattening-slabs/

Freehanding, if you can get them stood up on side or end, gravity will do a lot of the work for you, or you might be able to get a big bar and Alaskan for cost of job.

[terrifictimbersllc]

That was my concern, stability of a three foot long log resting on the ground as the chain buzzes through it. I wasn't sure if 3' was a total nuisance or not.  Sounds like it is doable.  I only have a few crotches that will be cut at 3' and the rest are much longer.  The 3 footers are pretty wide too.  Thanks for the input.

On my first Peterson slabbing job,  the customer wanted two 24" diameter log "cookies" sawn, these had been butchered out of the log with a small chain saw.   I mounted them on the bunks blocking their movement with two 3" nails which worked fine.  Half way through the vibration increased and I put my foot on the part that had already been cut.  No problem finishing them and they came out nice (flipped them both sides).   One thing you can't do that well is skim the top of a slab with the chain slabber, it works better when there is wood on both sides of the bar.  But the bandsaw unless it is a perfectly sharp blade can have this problem too.

[JimBuis]

If using a Peterson for slabbing, you can change out the slabber for a planer blade and plane each surface before cutting the next slab.

[beenthere]

Now there is a voice out of the past.

Welcome back Jim

[JimBuis]

Shhh!  I'm hiding. ;D

[terrifictimbersllc]

I suppose you could but it would be very time consuming, probably a half hour or more to take off the slabber, put on the planer, take it off, put the slabber back on. Better to cut most of the slabs and then plane them.  But I wouldn't see what the benefit would be for planing a freshly cut slab.  The slab would move and check on drying which would take a year or more.   When it's ready to use is the time to plane it.

[shelbycharger400]

i know what your up against, this is what im addressing with the mill im building.  started with a 36 in bar,  after everything, it will cut 29 in wide  34 + high or so, roughly 11 in thick single pass.
carrage done old pic of it is in profile, its all torn down, reworked the bottom and added 3 in angle iron for all 4 wheels adjustable in height for welding warpage of the mill, waiting  for paint now.
biggest hurdle now is the trailer.  its all 3/16 metal,  3 in sq tube with    3/16 , 2 in angle iron as rails.     crossmembers, will be 2,   2 in sq tube,   and  the combination dogs, out of 3/16 round tube that fits in the 2 in sq, will be pocketed at the sides, to allow removal with set screws, and the moveable pieces , 2 pieces of 2in sq welded together one horizontal plane, one verticle, then 1 1/2 sq  held in by set screw with a piece of plate with a sharp edge to lock it down on the log.  all will be set manually,  all on 12in on center.
it will accomidate a log 8 ft some odd inches long.  and shortest is possible 14 in
been goin on 2 yrs now, still not done.   next home built mill , ie a 48 in wide one will be built out of 8020! trailer and all.

[logboy]

Last year someone brought me a 24" cookie they wanted planed. It was already dry and about 6" thick. After 15 minutes of taking off 3/16" at a time with the planer head on my Lucas I said screw it and got the dedicated slabber out. It was 2.5" crooked from his chainsaw. I just screwed a couple 2x4s to the bunk logs to keep it from shifting toward the motor on the slabber.  I went slow and it handled it just fine.

[logboy]

I found a couple photos of what I did.  You can do small stuff, just take your time.

[shelbycharger400]

i have 3 cookies ,  2 at 24 in dia red elm,   one is 36 out back on the bottom, 14 in thick..     the 36 in + is a red oak.. heaver then u know what , buddy helped me grunt it up and slide it in the back of the truck

its all solid, if your in mn by st cloud , let me know how much it will be to slab,  its too big for my mill to be to keep it round.