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Open for critique. band sharpening. (video)

Started by cypresskayaksllc, May 10, 2011, 11:38:52 AM

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cypresskayaksllc

Please let me know what you think of my sharpening. The first minute of the video is the first grind and the rest of the video is the second grind. On the second grind I only grind the gullet and the back side of the tooth. My concerns:
Is my first pass too heavy or too light?
Am I going too fast or too slow?
Is the shape of the rock OK?

I know there are a lot of opinions on how to sharpen.
Cooks catclaw with Cooks supersharp band

http://vimeo.com/23514398
LT40HDDR, JD950FEL, Weimaraner

Chuck White

I have a Cooks Catclaw also.

I think you are a little heavy on the face of the tooth and the gullet in the first minute.

On the second time around I see you just tick the face of the tooth (good), just barely touch the face and sweep the gullet!

A good check is to look for any blue anywhere in the grind.  If you're getting any blue, you need to lighten up or your blades will start cracking where ever there is blue!

My 2ยข.

Saves lots of money if you have the time to sharpen your own.
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

Brad_S.

I agree with Chuck, a bit heavy on the tooth and especially heavy in the gullet. Like you say, there are plenty of opinions out there. I prefer to do a light grind on all parts of the blade and send it around that way twice rather than addressing certain blade areas on one pass and other areas on the second. Just my opinion though.
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." J. Lennon

ely

i tend to sharpen like brad says. i think you are maybe a touch heavy on the face of the tooth but definately heavy on the gullet. seems like i see a groove or other discrepency in the grind rock about where the heavy grind starts.... you may try and dress that area just a bit and it should slack up on the heaviness of the grind in the gullet.

imo if you lighten up on the grind across the board you can speed up just a touch.
bear in mind all this info changes as the grind rock wears over time, so you have to account for that fact too.

cypresskayaksllc

Thank you all for your suggestions. I will grind a little lighter next time.
LT40HDDR, JD950FEL, Weimaraner

Chuck White

I don't know if all the Cooks CatsClaw feed switches are the same or not, but on the one I have, I set the rheostat on 70 and that seems to be a good speed for me!

When I'm initially setting up for tooth face, and gullet contact, I don't have the grinder going, just the feed advance and the cam! 
EDIT:  The feed speed is turned all the way down.
I adjust it so that it lightly touches the face and the gullet.
When the band comes around (I have the weld marked with nail polish), I start the grind wheel about 4 or 5 teeth before the weld, then when the tooth before the weld shows up, I let go of the grinder and it's first contact with the blade is the face of the tooth "in the weld"!
Once in a while, I have to back off a little on the rock contact with the blade.

I don't like adjusting as I go, because if you do that, it will become a continual thing.  Just let it go, as long as it's not too heavy!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

ely

i start mine with the grinder going but do the rest like chuck does. i always just make sure the rock is off the face of the tooth and out of the gullet before i crank her up. i will have the machine dialed in with the first few teeth, then i put a mark on the band and leave it alone until its finnished. the weld used to be a starting point for me but anymore you are hard pressed to find a band with the weld not correct.

i used to find bands with the pitch off alot in the weld. or even 3 or more welds in  the band. not so anymore.

pa_of_6

I would say that you are changing the curve at the front of the tooth quite abit. This is where the sawdust needs to roll out of the gullet. You seem to be making it quite square which will have the sawdust pack in the bottom instead of rolling out. This would cause alot of stress in the gullet and may lead to premature cracking in the gullet.

I would shape the stone so as to take less off that curve in on the front of the tooth.

As a effect of grinding heavy off the front of the tooth, of course your second time around will seem light.

Just watch the video colse and you will see the first grind changes the tooth profile quite drasticly.

But that is just my opinion.

I love my catclaw, ten times the sharpener that the other brand is.

kelLOGg

Quote from: Chuck White on May 10, 2011, 10:05:17 PM
I don't know if all the Cooks CatsClaw feed switches are the same or not, but on the one I have, I set the rheostat on 70 and that seems to be a good speed for me!


Maybe that's why it takes me so long to sharpen - I set it at 20! If I go fast, or take off as much as was done in the video, I get blue teeth. (I didn't see blue teeth in the video). Maybe I need to change my grind rock - I have lost a lot of diameter so my linear velocity is slower than a rock of full diameter. At what diameter do you CatClaw owners change rocks?
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

ely

ive not changed mine yet i dont think, or maybe i did change it once. i dont remember. i will change it when i cant use it anymore.

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