iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Wierd toothsetting problem

Started by Percy, December 31, 2003, 12:33:32 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Percy

I have a WM setter that I am very intimate with(dont go there folks :D). I am currently using WM .050 10 degree blades.

Heres the  problem(if infact there is one). I set my blades to .032. Lately there is a consistant difference in  the amount of correction that each side of the blade needs.......the teeth bent inward are at about .025-.028 before setting but the teeth bent outward are at .020-.022 before setting.  I have checked/set the guides and adjusted most anything that can be checked/adjusted. I have cleaned and lubed the setter and everything seems to be in order there. The mill is cutting strait allthough on the soft woods, Id like to see a faster feed rate. The losing of  much more set on one side of the blade concerns me as I havent experienced this on such a consistant basis before and am thinking its a warning sign of problems to come...allthough Im not sure what??

I havent adjusted the blade tracking since I got the mill( Its a many ways adjustable procedure on an LT70) but it seems to be tracking the way it oughtta be.

Any thoughts????
GOLDEN RULE : The guy with the gold, makes the rules.

Stump Jumper

did you check some new blades out on the tooth setter?
Jeff
May God Bless.
WM LT 40 SuperHDD42 HP Kubota walk & ride, WM Edger, JD Skidsteer 250, Farmi winch, Bri-Mar Dump Box Trailer, Black Powder

D._Frederick

Percy,
Are you cutting cedar that has dry knots? I am using 0.042 blades and find that the dry knots take the set right out of the teeth. I find that when the  blade is having problems holding a straight cut line, that it has lost its set. Of couse, there is the problem that the corners of the teeth are gone from sawing through dirt. Look at the teeth with a 10X eye loop when you take a blade off and see if you still have corners, then check the set. If the set is gone, it has been my experience that knots are the problem.I have read that the bandsaws with smaller wheel diameter will have problems holding set. but can't say that this is true.

Neil_B

Percy,
I've been noticing the same problem as well. Not on WM blades though. When the cutting started getting erratic, I pulled the blade off and the set was out on one side. I've been cutting cedar so I think what D said is probably what's going on.  ???  :-/
Look forward to more input on this topic though.
Timberwolf / TimberPro sawmill, Woodmizer edger, both with Kubota diesels. '92 Massey Ferguson 50H backhoe, '92 Ford F450 with 14' dump/ flatbed and of course an '88 GMC 3500 pickup.

Tom

When I lose more set on the outside of the blade than the inside, I suspect that the blade is riding up in the cut and the outside teeth are taking a beating.   I have sat the spinning blade down on a cant or dropped it  too early and hit the end of the cant and cause this same thing.  Check the end of your cant and see if the blade is rising at the very beginning.  You will also see it drop off of the end of the cant if it is rising.

It was explained to me that it takes more effort to set one side of a blade than the other.  If you are using the "break" on the setter for both sides, and not checking each tooth,  you could be causing the problem. If the manufacturer is setting with the same pressures on each side then he may be causing it.   The suggestion to put a New blade on the setter and measure the set is good advice.

If the inside teeth are flattened then it is usually the band wheels or guides that are suspect. A diving blade is too easy to detect and you will see it quicker than a rising blade.

Also, before you get into the blade thing to far, clean the setter. A buildup of rust or dirt or whatever on the inside of the clamps will cause the blade to not be flattened. There are different pressures applied when the blade is inside out and the dirt in a wrong place could affect your clamping.  

The same goes for the sharpener.  I've run into weird problems sharpening and found that it was dirt in the clamps.  It's easy to miss and one of the last things I think to look for. :D

woodmills1

Just a thought do you set before or after you sharpen?  I tried setting after at first but just could not get rid of the burr, so went to set first.
James Mills,Lovely wife,collect old tools,vacuuming fool,36 bdft/hr,oak paper cutter,ebonic yooper rapper nauga seller, Blue Ox? its not fast, 2 cat family, LT70,edger, 375 bd ft/hr, we like Bob,free heat,no oil 12 years,big splitter, baked stuffed lobster, still cuttin the logs dere IAM

Percy

Thanks for the responses/advice.

Stumpy...I havent tried a new blade yet and will give it a try when I get the next new box....

D.Frederick,...... yes I am cutting Cedar. I have had the set removed  by Cedar knotts but the thing that is baffiling me is the consistancy of the difference.

Neil....as above, its abit too consistant for it to be just tuff knotts in my opinion..hmmmmm

Tom/Woodmills 1...Im thinkin you may be onto somthing here. Perhaps its happening when I sharpen. Meby the shapener is hooped and is takin more off on one side than the other. I will deburr and check a fresh sharpened blade BEFORE I cut with it and see  what its reading....


Thanks everyone and Happy New years...ya :D
GOLDEN RULE : The guy with the gold, makes the rules.

woodmills1

I tried the reccomended burr removal method and just got a fuzzy piece of hardwood.  I make sure my blades are clean when I take them off and set before I sharpen.  Also make sure the moving clamp plate on the sharpener is actually moving I find that mine gets rusty.  The last time there was a huge build up of rust that kept it from giving any friction on the blade.
James Mills,Lovely wife,collect old tools,vacuuming fool,36 bdft/hr,oak paper cutter,ebonic yooper rapper nauga seller, Blue Ox? its not fast, 2 cat family, LT70,edger, 375 bd ft/hr, we like Bob,free heat,no oil 12 years,big splitter, baked stuffed lobster, still cuttin the logs dere IAM

Percy

QuoteI tried the reccomended burr removal method and just got a fuzzy piece of hardwood.  I make sure my blades are clean when I take them off and set before I sharpen.  Also make sure the moving clamp plate on the sharpener is actually moving I find that mine gets rusty.  The last time there was a huge build up of rust that kept it from giving any friction on the blade.

Thanks for the reminder Woody. I have had the rust buildup you mentioned  and the blade wasnt being clamped properly. I do a major  cleaning every 3 months or so on the sharpener and its about due.  ;D :)
GOLDEN RULE : The guy with the gold, makes the rules.

Thank You Sponsors!