replacing 2 1/2? bit and shank

[youngsawyer]

I was wondering when old shanks should be replaced, I just bought my first sawmill and it came with a blade, that has quite a bit of rust on everything, but is a good blade. It is missing some bits and shanks. The shanks that are on it are not lose, but that could be due to the rust holding everything together.  I have read that my saw, and my wallet, will run more true if i replace every other shank and bit. Does this sound about right?

[Ron Wenrich]

Depends on what you're sawing, and when you're sawing.  A good shank will have a wide, sharp gullet (the rounded part).  The reason you want that is you need something to carry your sawdust out of the saw without spilling from the gullets and down the blade.  If it spills out, you'll get heat, and then trouble.  You can sharpen your shanks with a file.  That will give them more life.  When you change shanks, you should have the saw hammered, as well.

As for every other shank and bit, I have never done that.  I know what its like to have just one bit that's dull.  I can feel it.  Of course, if you've never had sharp bits all the way around, you won't know the difference.  A lot of guys did that because they had too much saw for the horsepower they were running.  So, they used less teeth.  Of course, any sawdust you happen to collect in the unchanged shanks will still be subject to spillage. 

Fine sawdust is your worst enemy, as far as shanks are concerned.  Hickory, locust and some oak can give you a problem if your shanks are worn badly.  Poplar and pine shouldn't be much of a problem.  Wintertime and frozen logs will give you a finer sawdust.  I usually change shanks in the fall, so as to be ready for winter.

I can't tell much from your picture.  Stand the shank up and take a picture like that.  We'll be able to see the gullet better.  Kudos for being able to place a picture on your first post, and welcome to the Forum.

[youngsawyer]

Thanks for the hospitality! I will mostly be sawing unclear white oak, and some pine.  Now that i look at the gullet, the edges arent as sharp up towards the bit end, but the edges are sharper looking on the other end.  I havent got a power unit yet, but i plan on having some power, so i guess i will put in some new shanks, Ive found this website http://icstc.thomasnet.com/viewitems/other-cutting-tools/sawmill-supplies  but the shanks look like they dont have the concave v grove that i have on my old ones.... do i need some special shanks? Also, just for starting out can i get away with mixing older shanks and bits with newer ones? or will this throw off my blade.  And one more question, is it crucial that i get my blade tensioned when I replace bits and shanks?

[paul case]

welcome youngsawyer. good to have you here .   pc

[sandhills]

You seem to have a lot of the issues and questions that I have, I (we) also bought a circle mill and after reading many posts here and looking it over a LOT wondered about some of the same things.  Welcome aboard, you definetly came to the right place for information and thanks for bringing up the topic.

[Ron Wenrich]

If you look at the side of those shanks in the picture, you'll see that there are a letters and numbers on there.  It says F 8.  That's the type and gauge of shank.  They're for an F pattern saw, not a 2 1/2.  The ones to the right are for a B pattern saw.  All shanks have a groove down them.  They also seem a bit expensive, and they don't carry shanks.

One of our sponsors is Menominee Saw.  Their banner is to the right of the page.  You may want to see how much they charge for bits and shanks. 

I always get my saw tensioned when I put in new shanks.  But, you don't need it tensioned with the old shanks.  For me not to be able to get a saw to cut, it has to be in pretty bad shape.  But, I have a million logs under my belt.  How many shanks are missing?  If its only a few, I might try it with a few new shanks. 

Before I would invest in new shanks, I would try to sharpen the shank.  I would also put in brand new bits.  New bits will eliminate any cause for problems as being in the sharpening. 

When you mount your saw on the arbor, clean up the eye of the saw and the collars.  Just use some fine emery cloth to get the surface rust or any debris off the saw and collars.  They can cause a problem. 

To better see the shank condition, we need to see the gullet of the shank.  A top down type of shot.

Is your mill in pieces, or do you have it all put together?

[Jeff]

youngsawyer, here is a video tutorial on uploading photos. If you follow this, your photo's will be much larger and clearer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yclpxy7gorI

[bandmiller2]

Welcome YS, tell us more about your mill. There are so many variables when your learning to use a circular mill the more that can be eliminated the better.When I first started,before I cut the first log, I took the saw to a sawsmith to be inspected and tensioned.Ask around and find a local smith,they all sell bits and shanks,ask him about your saw most are straight shooters and will tell you if you need new bits and shanks its money well spent. Frank C.

[bandmiller2]

YS, I ment to tell you if your taking your saw to a smith clean it up.I have used Scotch Brite type pads on a right angle grinder. Be real carefull around shank pockets if theirs no shank in it. Frank C.

[youngsawyer]

Again Thanks again for all yalls time, and help. Ive never posted in a forum before, but this has been a treat,  I now feel like Im finally getting somewhere .  So this is the gullet, there are probably about Six bits and shanks missing out of my blade, and all the gullets pretty much look like this one. I don't know if you can tell for the picture, but I had to tap the closed end shank out with a punch after soaking it down with some WD40, but im not totally sure i was using the bit/shank removing tool the right way.... I wasn't lying when i said that i was going at this blind, is the U-shaped pin that is in the bit/shank removing tool suppose to slide out , and then slide back in through the hole in the shank once the tool is inserted? In high-insight Im now thinking that is what the tool is suppose to do.    
    My saw mostly together except i had to remove the mandrel and the setworks display, so that I could get it just under 8 feet wide, and tow that big boy down the road. I also have to put on the hydraulic pump, hoses, levers, and tank. and i have to hook up the new carriage cable. And lastly the I need to mount the log turner, and put flat belts, which Im sure ill need some help on.  So I can see the end... but there are still a few hoops i need to jump through to get there!
    But my mill is all steel, on wheels, and is 20 ft long without the two extensions. It has hydraulic tong dogs, knees??, log turner, and log deck.  The carriage is cable driven... and does have some wear on the spindle that Im hoping i dont have to worry about. My mill has a 6 belt v- groove pulley, but no power unit....yet.  It is painted frick red, but other then that clue, I really have no idea what kind of mill it is. maybe its has something to do with the mystery of my mill, but lately ive been dreaming more about my mill, than my girlfriend. I will post some pictures of my mill tomorrow I'm sure.

[paul case]

i had a question along these same lines.
i bought an edger from larry and it has 1 bit and shank missing from one blade. i know i will have to eventually get new bits for it but the question is , can i tell if the hole where the bit/shank is missing is too worn to hold a shank without buying a new one? do i need to change all  of those shanks if the gullets are worn on them? i wont be edging anything thicker than 1''. pc

[bandmiller2]

Paul,they make oversized shanks for slightly worn pockets.Remove one of the outher bits and shank and try it in the pocket in question.If it goes in too easy you need an oversized shank. Frank C.