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White Pine and Weivil or Blister Rust

Started by g_man, April 12, 2011, 05:59:04 PM

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g_man

I have an area that was predominently white pine before it was harvested ( read, high graded ) about 15 years ago before I was the owner.  In the places where the canopy was opened up sufficiently there is good pine regen which suffers from pine weivil. The weivil problem is much less in areas where some of the older stunted trees that were left  offer partial shading. Most of these older trees have damage from the harvest and  they also have a high incidence of blister rust. They are slowly dying out. Is my regen in these areas doomed to blister rust or will they resist it via vitality?  Right now they are growing good and seem to be mostly weivel free and blister rust free. The big original canopy trees that where left because  they were misshappened don't seem to be affected by the blister rust much  its just the stunted and or damaged ones..

SwampDonkey

It will only get infected with rust if there is gooseberry and currant species present. The partial shading does help against the weevils. But lower limb pruning can help reduce blister rust germination on the needles of lower limbs where it would be cooler and more humid near the ground. I have a pine I planted in the shade of an oak, the weevils have not touched it and the rust is not at it so far. I had one other that the rust killed a few years back about this size. I see a cone that began last season will mature this year (takes two years on white pine).  :)
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

g_man

Thanks.
Do the currants or gooseberries have to be close by in the immediate area understory or can they be a ways away? I guess I need to find out what those things look like. They must have been there at one time I am guesssing because of the presence of blister rust in the older trees.

SwampDonkey

You can probably Google it, but seems to me they could be within 300 or 400  yards, a lot depends on the wind to. Just like blowing dust around. We've got 3 species up here in the wild. I don't have any trouble to find it in my woods, especially where there is cedar. Gooseberries are usually planted in yards on old homesites. There were 3 patches here on this place at one time, I tore them up. But with birds around to feed on and disperse them, I'm sure there are some lurking on this 4 acres someplace.
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

banksiana

Tearing up the currents may seem like a good idea but you probably will not be able to remove enough of them to make a difference.  You are better off taking steps to lower the humidity levels under the pines by pruning them or even mowing the brush if you can.  Not sure about the weevil, but many insects will over winter in the duff layer below each tree. raking may help.  The pines will eventually grow but the weevil will stunt them for a while anyway.

g_man

So are you thinking I would be better off removing the partial shade and the weivil protection it offers and make it sunnyer and dryer to help limit the blister rust? Or should I leave the partial shade and make it airy as possible down low by pruning and mowing?

SwampDonkey

"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

Shotgun

The white pine limbs closest to the ground are the primary targets for the blister rust spores, and the target area is reduced as you move higher. The higher you can practically prune the laterals off, the better your protection will be. Any time you're growing white pines, you should be pruning the trees as soon as practical.  You can remove the Ribes (currents & goose berries), but you really need to know what you're doing, species-wise, to make it work. I feel that proper pruning is more effective than Ribes eradication. Eastern white pine needs 15 to 20 percent shade to prevent the weevil damage, or some chemical protection if you can't grow them in the shade.

Norm
Joined The Forestry Forum 5 days before 9/11.

banksiana

Quote from: g_man on April 13, 2011, 06:01:56 PM
So are you thinking I would be better off removing the partial shade and the weivil protection it offers and make it sunnyer and dryer to help limit the blister rust? Or should I leave the partial shade and make it airy as possible down low by pruning and mowing?
No you should remove the branches by pruning UNDER the canopy, not the overstory. 

g_man

Thank you very much for the info guys. I appreciate it very much.

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