Homemade bandsaw question

Tyrin2saw · April 12, 2011, 01:57:46 PM

Hi all how goes it. I have been wanting to build my own saw for about a year now n have finally started. one of a bunch of questions i probly have is about the vertical guidance of the saw head. do people run bearings or just slip fitting peices of round or square tubing. will the slight jiggle between the 2 effect the cut.

thanks for any help JD

paul case · April 12, 2011, 04:55:41 PM

my ez boardwalk has square slip fit tubing with adjustable plastic rub blocks .

they have a metal strap on each side with a bolt and are on the inside of the head. you can see them in each picture. it only has one for each side. the plastic rub bars are probably 3/4''x 3/4'' and 2'' long.
pc

bandmiller2 · April 12, 2011, 08:32:32 PM

JD,when I built my bandmill I used two legnths of 1" shaft one on each side with bushings in each end of a 12" piece of shelby tube attached to the saw head.Give serious thought to hydraulics to ease the strain of handling logs.Theirs alot of information in past posts may of us have built our own. Frank C.

Magicman · April 12, 2011, 08:58:27 PM

The plastic rub blocks that pc described above are probably Teflon. They should be available as replacements from most sawmill manufacturers. WM also uses them.

tyb525 · April 12, 2011, 09:21:20 PM

On my LT10, it has the semi-cantilever design. The "main" post is round, and there is a sleeve around it that acts as a clamp. On the other side of the mill is just a bracket with two plastic "bumpers".

fishpharmer · April 12, 2011, 10:31:31 PM

Hi JD,
Here is a link to a "simple sawmill" website showing some details
http://kruppt.tripod.com/mill_2/img010.jpeg.html

My bandmill build began with the Bill Rake "simple sawmill" plans. In the plans he suggests using a brass shim. In my infinite wisdom (or lack of), I did not follow the plans very closely. Some might say I didn't follow the plan at all.

Here is a pic of my bandmill showing the cutterhead uprights.

I simply used two different sizes of tubing, male and female (I think its the best way) with no shims or plastic. I had intended to somehow shim the tubes to prevent any jiggle. As it turns out, the sheer mass of the cutterhead prevents any play except when actually moving the head up or down. When moving the head up, it wants to shift slightly to one side. When lowering the head it shifts back and stays in that position. I decided to adjust everything so that it cuts parallel to the log bunks when it is in the "shift down" mode since I intended to cut all my logs from the top down ;).

On the mill in that pic is a 36 inch diameter Southern Yellow Pine log.

Tyrin2saw · April 13, 2011, 09:36:37 AM

Thanks evry one for the replies and examples. Ive gone through tons of build posts old and new and 4 post seems 2 be more common. I started buildin the main beam for the band wheels and due to lack of material i was headed toward 2 post. Im workin on gettin some pics up.

JD

Tyrin2saw · April 13, 2011, 01:28:58 PM

I cant seem to get pics in a post I got em into my gallery but thats as far as i can get.

JD

beenthere · April 13, 2011, 01:44:16 PM

You have the hardest part done. Once your gallery is open, and your posting window here is open, just click on your gallery pic and scroll down below it where there are two sets of instructions. Follow one or the other.

Let us know where you get hung up, as sometimes with computers one doesn't realize just how close to being successful we are.

Tyrin2saw · April 13, 2011, 04:23:33 PM

Thanks beenthere was missin that part think i got it now. 1st pic is the driven wheel side

This is the adjustable side, blade tension, toe and camber

It is sitting upside down right now
JD

Magicman · April 13, 2011, 05:39:19 PM

You have some major mechanics going on there. ;)

rbarshaw · April 13, 2011, 06:16:28 PM

It looks like you're usind tires for bandwheels, that's what I used on my first mill, works good. I'm not sure from your pics, but do you have enough clearance for your tires once they are mounted, looks like they might rub the cross member?

Tyrin2saw · April 13, 2011, 07:09:34 PM

Quote from: rbarshaw on April 13, 2011, 06:16:28 PM
It looks like you're usind tires for bandwheels, that's what I used on my first mill, works good. I'm not sure from your pics, but do you have enough clearance for your tires once they are mounted, looks like they might rub the cross member?

Yea im goin with tires on this one. i got a pair of shallow offset rims i run inside out with about 3/4'' - 1'' clearance to the beam.
I was wondering what width tires people r usin , i was thinkin maybe skinny donuts but dont no wats best. once i get right tires i'll measure for a band.

JD

paul case · April 13, 2011, 07:20:16 PM

nice fab work there. looks like you are on the right track. pc

bandmiller2 · April 13, 2011, 08:25:39 PM

JD,your no pilgrim when it comes to welding and fabrication,I see you have your pussy in the shop for company. I would think those donut spare tires would be good.You may need a double "B" series pulley to drive the wheels.What are you planning to use for power.?? Frank C.

rbarshaw · April 13, 2011, 09:05:10 PM

Quote from: Tyrin2saw on April 13, 2011, 07:09:34 PM
I was wondering what width tires people r usin , i was thinkin maybe skinny donuts but dont no wats best. once i get right tires i'll measure for a band.

JD

I used mobilehome tires, i've seen probably every type of tire used, on this forum.

Tyrin2saw · April 13, 2011, 10:20:27 PM

thanks evryone for the replies.

Quote from: bandmiller2 on April 13, 2011, 08:25:39 PM
JD,your no pilgrim when it comes to welding and fabrication,I see you have your pussy in the shop for company. I would think those donut spare tires would be good.You may need a double "B" series pulley to drive the wheels.What are you planning to use for power.?? Frank C.

I only have a 5hp briggs sittin around now, but or big regional swap meet is this fri-sun. Theres got to be sumthin bigger that will work. maybe some 24'' donuts that would give me 32'' between wheels and 18'' depth from beam. allways good stuff to be had at the swap meet.

JD

bandmiller2 · April 14, 2011, 06:22:50 AM

JD,don't be afrade of power thats something everyone here agrees on,the bigest engine you can handle on your bandhead. Electric is best if you have three phase.You don't know now how long your band will be,when you get the wheels you can run a tape around.You will have a range of adjustment ask the band supplier if theirs a standard legnth that will fit makes it much easier for everyone.They sell "V" castor wheels that run on inverted angle iron^ ^ with roller bearings that work well for carriage wheels.If your mill will be stationary and you have 110-220 v you can use that to run hydraulic pumps blowers est. to save engine power. Frank C.

Tyrin2saw · April 17, 2011, 11:29:47 AM

Went to the swap meet and scooped a tecumseh hh120 12hp for $50 w/ gas tank. I think its late 60's early 70 w/ original mouse nests. It has electric start that i need ignition switch for but the internals are in great shape cylinder is perfect n it had compresion. Also got 2x 3/4''x36'' acme rods n nuts + 3/4'' bore sprockets for the lifting part. The head is getting pretty heavy wonderin if 3/4 rods will be enough.

bandmiller2 · April 18, 2011, 07:07:27 AM

JD,12 hp will do it but you still won't be awash with power.Are you planning to use screw thread and nuts to raise and lower the head?On my bandmill I used a hydraulic cylinder and wire cable to raise and lower the head controlled easily with a spool valve.If you have hydraulics its a simple matter to put a drum on a hyd. motor for cable feed.Frank C.

dovetails · April 19, 2011, 04:48:47 AM

Quote from: Tyrin2saw on April 17, 2011, 11:29:47 AM
Went to the swap meet and scooped a tecumseh hh120 12hp for $50 w/ gas tank. I think its late 60's early 70 w/ original mouse nests. It has electric start that i need ignition switch for but the internals are in great shape cylinder is perfect n it had compresion.

Good deal! I have one looks just like it, took off an old rideing mower about 15 years ago,but mine is a 15hp,but the tank was bad. It has set on shelf in shop for 5-6 years,but hook gas to it, crank it over,and it fires right up.I used it on a big air compresor for a couple years,plenty of power on that. btw,I wouldn't let mine go for any less than about $200 if I was to sell it! Easy to find bigger vertical shaft motors,side shaft not to common. Love swap meets,go to a local one here every thursday and sat mornings.

buildthisfixthat · August 18, 2011, 11:19:30 AM

any progress on the saw build ?bearings appear a bit close together also do you have enough adjustment for the wheels ?

millwright · August 18, 2011, 08:39:12 PM

Great looking work. What are you planning to use for a clutch to engage the wheels?

shelbycharger400 · August 20, 2011, 10:27:29 PM

3/4 acme is plenty for what your doing. if you want you can look at my chain bar mill im building, i have done a lot cince last picture, mainly this last week i have made huge progress, but i cant find the camera :( , anyway on mine between the 12.5 hp motor, the 15" x 24" x 1/2" plate, the clutch...its over 150 lbs. and im just using standard 3/4 rod. 11 turns/inch.

I can tell you, for dollar amount spent,.. $20 to $50 on a used horizontal Kohler 4 in lawn mower electric clutch are nice. they are around 150 to 300 new. . i adapted one from a 12hp kohler, and its on a 12.5 briggs vert.. i bolted it to a 1/2 in thick plate. mine isnt done. but its nice to know a flip of a switch, or im going to use a thumb push switch to activate the clutch.
tubing im using is 2inch, and 1.5, all is 1/8th in wall. their is about a 1/4 total slop, but with 4 corners sliding, the weight between being lifted on 2, 3/4 rods.. its very little rock, if problems arise, im going to grind a hole on one of the angles and weld in a weld nut, and put a bolt in, and slight tension. but the support tubes are 12in long. when i build a new one.. im goin all aluminum... industrial erector set... also known as 80/20 No welding required.. drill a few holes, buy the corner brackets, bolt together.

One rule of thumb, over do it, plan on everything you can thats in your control, then it will be the best you can do. i planed probably 6 months.. with looking at several, many many pictures of slabbers online, and mine has taken over 2 years to construct, and i already have a list of things to upgrade, and im still workin on it. also note.. the feet is stabilized over 3 ft, all 4 corner wheels are adjustable ( for welding warpage issues) trailer is 14 ft long. toung to tail. with capable of cutting just a 9 ft log, but i have crossmembers 12in on center, 2 are solid, 6 are removable. the 6 contain the dogs, that the dogs are all adjustable for 4in up ,,,then down. as well as in and out. in short.. the carrage was capable of 29 in wide, 34 in high, 11.5 single pass. now with wheels on, ect, main rails of saw deck (trailer) are 3 in sq tubing, my crossmembers are 28 1/4, dog pockets are 2in sq tubing with a set screw, the max dia i can clamp at 4 in up or down is about 24in wide. this is why i went with removable crossmembers. so when i come across some smaller stock (12 pcs at 4 in, in 3/4 stock, with something to pocket them in, then weld that to 2 in tube for sliding on 1 5/8 round )