I did not realize was that there was so much involved in drying lumber

[vfauto]

I always was intrested in saw mills so I decided to bight the bullet and purchase one. What I did not realize was that there was so much involved in drying the lumber. With that being said can you guys suggest some basic procedures for drying so I do not get discouaged and waste lumber. At some point I will build a solar kilm but for now I would like to get some logs milled. Most of the wood will be for my woodworking hobby.

[Bill Gaiche]

vfauto, welcome aboard. You are at the same point I was last year. Started building a mill and didnt have a clue to all the drying that was needed for hardwood. Well got the mill done and have sawed  plenty of different lumber and have it stickered and waiting to be kiln dried. Started building Solar Kiln yesterday. Hope to have it done soon weather permitting. I do hobby projects only also. Dont get discouarged, just take it a day and step at a time and it will all fall together sooner than you think. bg

[tyb525]

vfauto,

Air drying works well to start off with.

Search "Drying lumber" via the search function at the top.

[Dan_Shade]

I have this on my website, and provide to folks when I do a job for them, I've put it on the forum before (I actually copied it from another post:   https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,37703.0.html )

Typically, for air drying lumber, it takes one year per inch of thickness for the wood to dry to a usable state. In the Mid-Atlantic region, wood will air dry to approximately 12-14% if properly stacked and sticked.  Lumber over 2" thick is difficult to dry, and may develop specific drying defects.

It is best to have the lumber stack as level and flat as possible.  Variations in the stack will translate to the lumber in the pile, if the stack is not flat, the wood in the pile will dry warped.  Stickers should be aligned on top of each other in the stack and be placed 18-24 inches apart.  The stack should be well supported with blocks to combat the beams sagging from the weight of the lumber.  The bottom of the lumber stack should also be elevated 12-16" off of the ground, to keep weeds and animal impacts to the pile at a minimum.  The platform should be constructed as long as the longest lumber is, and stack width is best when 4 to 6 feet wide. 

The pile should be weighted down and the top covered.  Covering the sides of the stack with a tarp will result in moldy lumber.  Air must be able to move through the stack.  Lumber should be stacked and sticked within 24 hours of being sawn to avoid mold problems.  Mold develops quickly during Spring and Summer on pine wood.  A light mixture of bleach sprayed on the wood stack helps inhibit mold growth, but mold may still develop if it is warm out.

Wood stacks should be left in an open, but shaded area where airflow is not inhibited.  Direct Sunlight may cause drying defects. 

Lumber losses due to material degradation (warp, check, stain, etc.) can be expected while drying.

Additional information can be obtained from the USDA Forest Products Laboratory, General Technical Report FPL-GTR-117

[Ianab]

Like the guys say, air drying is perfectly OK for most species of wood. Some are more forgiving a easier to dry successfully than others.

Walnut, cypress and cedar are pretty much foolproof, as long as you stack them properly, just leave them and they dry OK.

Others need a bit more care, some will stain if they dry too slowly (Maple), others can surface check if they dry too fast (White Oak). These things are easier to control in a kiln.

So decide what you are going to be sawing and the guys can offer more detailed advice on that species, and any problems you might have. Otherwise, go and saw a walnut or a cedar and get it stacked up to dry. Not much that can go wrong with them.

Ian

[metalspinner]

vfauto,

I'm a hobby woodworker, too.  The best thing I ever did as build myself a solar kiln.  It can dry two loads (1500bf) a year down to 6-8%. The only problem is that dry wood was going into my workshop faster than finished projects were coming out.  The last time I loaded the kiln was 2 years ago and the wood has been in there ever since.  It makes for a nice lumber storage shed. :D

Three or four solar dryers would be a handy way to increase the value of a pile of woodworking lumber for a small sawmill operation.

[vfauto]

Thanks for all the imput,keep it coming!

1) How much weight is needed for the top of the stacks?

2) I am building a barn and I am wondering if when the lumber is cut is it better to air dry it out in the weather or should I stack it inside the barn from the get go.

Thanks Frank

[Ianab]

1 - to really do any good, about 4" of concrete....  Of course the weight of the top of the stack will be applying that sort of pressure 1/2 way down the stack. Again, some woods are forgiving, and don't really need weight. Maybe if you are sawing mixed species, but some of the more stable wood on the top of the stack

2 - If the "barn" is open on at least one one side, then it may be good for drying. Totally enclosed you don't get the airflow needed for decent drying. In that case leave to wood outside for 3-6 months, get it down to under 20% moisture, then it's pretty safe no matter what you do. Move it inside for more drying and long term storage.

Ian