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which handsaw?

Started by ballen, March 31, 2011, 03:20:12 PM

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ballen

I realize there have been various discussions about favorite hand saws but I thought I'd ask again in case times have changed.

I need ONE general purpose handsaw to accomplish all my (hobby) timber framing needs...
End cuts, shoulder cuts, angled brace mortice cuts, etc.

Which saw and tooth size do people like if you were only buying one?

Thanks,
Bill

Jim_Rogers

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,34911.0.html

As far as I know nothing has changed with me.

I will be seeing Jack Sobon this weekend. I'll ask if anything has changed with him.
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

ballen

Thanks Jim,
That thread seems to indicate that Sobon likes the Stanley in both 11TPI and 8TPI.  I'm leaning toward the 8 for speedier cuts (not doing brain surgery in my case) but I look forward to your update after this weekend.
Bill

Tim Reilly

I personally love my japanese hand saws. I use this one for everything from timber framing right down to detailed finish work. http://www.hidatool.com/shop/shop.html

ballen

Thanks Tim,
Do you have the Ryoda, Blue Ryoba or Razor?
If it works well for you, it doesn't really matter but do you know the approximate TPI on your saw? Just curious to compare with others.
Bill

Dave Shepard

I use the Sharptooth as well. I have not been able to find it in the 8 tpi, which would be nice. The finer saw works well, but in large section green pine timbers, it is slow going. I'm thinking of trying my hand at sharpening an older, coarser hand saw to see how it will do in the big green stuff.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

Tim Reilly

I use the Razor saw. It has one side for rip cuts with a graduated tooth pattern. 9tpi at the heel and 6tpi at the end of the saw. This makes for easy starts on the cut. The other side is for crosscuts at 16tpi.

With Japanese saws you cut on the pull stroke so the blade is much thinner than a western saw. This makes for much faster cutting. Just go easy on it. If you are to rough pushing you can snap the blade.

ballen

Thanks Tim
Sounds nice...two saws in one.

Jim_Rogers

Jack says he hasn't changed his mind.
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

Piston

Quote from: Dave Shepard on March 31, 2011, 05:46:56 PM
I use the Sharptooth as well. I have not been able to find it in the 8 tpi, which would be nice. The finer saw works well, but in large section green pine timbers, it is slow going. I'm thinking of trying my hand at sharpening an older, coarser hand saw to see how it will do in the big green stuff.


This is what I've found as well.  In fact, just bought this saw a couple months ago for large green timbers...http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/One-Man-Crosscut-Saw-36-Tuttle-with-Supplementary-Handle-Made-in-Germany/productinfo/501-108906/
(in Lance pattern)

I used it only a couple times but thought it would work better than it did.  It says it comes sharpened and set.  I think I just don't know the right 'technique' to use it. 

I really do like using the hand saw over the skill saw, but so far it's taking me forever to cut through larger green pine timbers.
-Matt
"What the Lion is to the Cat the Mastiff is to the Dog, the noblest of the family; he stands alone, and all others sink before him. His courage does not exceed his temper and generosity, and in attachment he equals the kindest of his race."

Rooster

Has anyone used Silky Saws?

I am seriously concidering getting the Katanaboy 500.

http://www.silkysaws.com/Silky_Saws/Folding-Straight_2/KATANABOY-with-500-extra-large-teeth


I have used a friends Bigboy 2000 and liked it alot.

http://www.silkysaws.com/Silky_Saws/Folding-Straight_2/Silkys-BIGBOY-360mm-Med-Teeth-Hand-Saw.

Plus starting deep cuts with a circular saw does help at times.

Any "Silky" converts out there?

Rooster
"We talk about creating millions of "shovel ready" jobs, for a society that doesn't really encourage anybody to pick up a shovel." 
Mike Rowe

"Old barns are a reminder of when I was young,
       and new barns are a reminder that I am not so young."
                          Rooster

bub4e

I just bought  few silky saws: Katanaboy, Bigboy and Zorin.  All look great, I haven't had the chance to use them much yet, but have been impressed so far.  The Katanaboy is one BIG saw, it's not made, so I also picked the Zorin for its short handle

Dave Shepard

I've seen the Katanaboy in use, and it is faster than a sharptooth. It would be the only Japanese saw I would consider for timber use, the others are too small for my needs. I think a properly sharpened and set one many saw, such as the one Piston mentioned, would be ideal for green wood. These saws are set differently for hard and soft woods, as well as green and seasoned.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

Piston

Quote from: Dave Shepard on April 03, 2011, 08:36:08 PM
These saws are set differently for hard and soft woods, as well as green and seasoned.

The one I have is set for soft, green wood.  I tried it out on a pine timber that was felled and milled about 4 months before I tried the saw on it.  Maybe that's why it wasn't what I expected.  I'll try it on a fresh sawn pine that it is set for and see how that works.  Although for the most part that timber was still very green. 
I really think it is all technique, which I have not figured out yet.  I'll give it more practice. 
-Matt
"What the Lion is to the Cat the Mastiff is to the Dog, the noblest of the family; he stands alone, and all others sink before him. His courage does not exceed his temper and generosity, and in attachment he equals the kindest of his race."

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