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Frick Mill Setup Starts

Started by ddcuning, March 13, 2011, 08:04:42 PM

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ddcuning

I was so frustrated yesterday with what happened at my friends Frick Mill that I spent the rest of the day and pulled my mill out of the woods and got it to the house. Today, I pressure washed the mill to get the sawdust and years of grease off and started in. I had noticed that the main pulley at the sawyer position jumped when you pulled the stick. Luckly the bearing was still good, the set screw that holds the bearing housing had just come loose. Quick 20min fix. I then examined the headblocks and noticed that the face was worn. I removed all four headblocks and noted that the ways were groved in the center and the bottom of the headblock that rides on the way was worn. Couple this wear with the face of the headblock and you have yourself a nice wedge you just sawed. So, I took the headblocks completely apart and removed the ways from the carriage, all to be sent to the machine shop for resurfacing. While the headblocks and ways are out for resurfacing, I am going to concentrate on getting the carriage frame cleaned up and painted as well as getting the frame cleaned up and painted. When the heablocks come back from machining, I will get those painted up as well. I will also check all of the bearings on the carriage while its weight is less and replace the babit bearing with pillow blocks if needed.

Dave C
We're debt free!!! - Dave C, Nov 2015

tyb525

Can't wait to hear more about your progress :)
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

bandmiller2

Dave,just about all wear on a handset circular mill can be adjusted or shimmed out.Machine work is expensive and you'll probibly end up shimming anyways.Carriage wheels and axle bearings are critical and tend to wear.Babbit boxes tend to give endplay problems.Are boath wheels fast to the carriage axle?by that I mean are they solid on the axle or will they turn independent of each outher.If their solid on the axle the diameters are critical so they don't tend to scuff.On my own carriage I used new pillow block bearings  remachined the wheels and had the flat wheel turn independent of the guide wheel.The pillow blocks give you good endplay control. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Woodchuck53

Morning Dave. If there is any chance like I have for run off water to carry oils then pillow block over babbit is the way to go. A whole lot less mess. The cattle operation across the road  has 3 tanks down stream of my place so I have to watch my projects to be sure no rainbows show up on there place. When I get thru with this up grade there will be remote grease runs from a couple bulkheads for ease and speed of lubrication. Hang in there. Chuck
Case 1030 w/ Ford FEL, NH 3930 w/Ford FEL, Ford 801 backhoe/loader, TMC 4000# forklift, Stihl 090G-60" bar, 039AV, and 038, Corley 52" circle saw, 15" AMT planer Corley edger, F-350 1 ton, Ford 8000, 20' deck for loader and hauling, F-800 40' bucket truck, C60 Chevy 6 yd. dump truck.

ddcuning

Frank C. I am going to go with machining the headblocks to get it all back right. I know it is extra cost but I want it to be correct and not have to mess with it. I found a gentlemen 10miles from the house that has the setup to machine the headblocks and the ways and I plan to get them up to him next week sometime.

Chuck, I will probably go with the pillowblocks. I changed them out on the other mill I was working on and it wasn't that bad. Just had to shim a few to get the carriage correct but not a big deal and they are easy maintenance. I think I spend about $600 on the bearings and new axles when I did that carriage but that was a few years ago. I found a bearing that had the excact bolt separation as the pillow blocks so it bolted right on without modifications. I really don't want this to be a maintenance headache and the pillow blocks are low maintenance. I like the remote grease fittings idea and could incorporate that easily on my carriage.

Dave C
We're debt free!!! - Dave C, Nov 2015

ddcuning

After many long months and fights with the county on permitting, the sawmill shed beings. We got our construction permit yesterday and the steel trusses and tin show up next week. We are going to be building a 60'x40' shed over the sawmill with a 20' opening on the side for getting logs onto the staging supports. Once I get the mill under cover, I am going to sandblast and paint it. The headblocks and guides are out at the machine shop for machining. Hope to get the shed built in less than a month( I am taking the Memorial Day week of to work on the shed) and then get the mill moved from the house and get it under cover.
We're debt free!!! - Dave C, Nov 2015

Dave_

Dave, sounds like you're taking the time to do it right.  Some pics would be great!!!  We can't be there to help you paint, but we would like to be with you in spirit ;)

sealark37

It's good to hear from you, Dave.  I was beginning to wonder what you were doing.  You are right to re-do your mill and set it up right.  Let's hear some talk of a hydraulic log turner, live deck, electric set-works, etc.  Good Luck, and Regards, Clark

ddcuning

Last week I wondered if we would ever get started...Computer went out in the Bobcat and could not grade the site, hydraulics went out on the tractor and could not dig the holes for the posts, shipment was delayed on the trusses and the tin and I can't count all the other non-sawmill related issues that came up last week.

This week we are better. The knees and ways on the mill came back from the machine shop and are perfectly square! This mill should saw good square lumber with the carriage parts machined square again. Of course the originals lasted 60+ years so the new machine work should outlast me. The computer came in for the Bobcat and the tractor is being fixed today so we should start grading and digging holes for the posts this weekend. The company for the trusses and tin called yesterday and they should be delivered next Tue or Wed so we are on our way...hopefully!

The pause in action wasn't bad. We had 1,000 heads of garlic come in from the garden this week and had to prep it for a local restaurant the last couple of days so I would have had to stop and take care of that even without these sawmill shed problems.

Dave C
We're debt free!!! - Dave C, Nov 2015

ddcuning

Wow it has been since early June that we were working on the sawmill shed and still not finished. Hard to complete when you work on it one day a week. All of the posts are concreted in and we set the beam over the log entrance yesterday. We now have 5 of the 7 forty foot trusses set and some of the perlins in. I am going to have to locate some additional rough sawn 2x6x10' pine to complete the job. I thought I had enough going in but we had some that warped and split, etc. that has made us come up short.

All of the parts for the Frick have been machined square again and it is ready to be located once we get the shed finished. In addition to the shed, we have also had a well dug, power and septic put in so that has taken a lot of time.

Dave C
We're debt free!!! - Dave C, Nov 2015

ddcuning

The sawmill shed is getting there. The first picture is us starting to set the last truss. In the second picture, Steve(on the ground) and I(on the forklift) get ready to set the final truss in place. In the last picture, I align the truss to be bolted in place. With only Steve and I doing the work in conjunction with getting well, septic and power complete on the site, it is taking longer than expected. Next step will be to drop in all of the perlins and start the tin so we can get the sawmill moved over and under cover. The mill is currently in my front yard under a tarp and the rest on the floor of my woodshop.

Dave C



We're debt free!!! - Dave C, Nov 2015

bandmiller2

Dave,are you planning to run the carriage rails on wood timbers or steel?Are you going to use sono tubes or piers [like jersey barriers] for your foundation? Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

sealark37

Good Morning, Dave-  It is good to see you making such good progress on your mill set-up.  Please keep us up to date on your progress.  Interesting to watch a real engineer build his own sawmill.  Re careful, and Regards, Clark

ddcuning

Frank,
We were planning to set up wood timbers. The ground near where the sawmill is has some rock...diggable rock but rock none the less. Two of the back posts we dug by hand through rock and it took us several days to complete the two holes. My intent was to set two telephone posts about 2' in the ground 4' apart. Then bridge between the two with two 2x10 or 2x12 pieces bolted together to set the mill on. I have then designed an adjusting jig that we would bolt to the 2x10 or 2x12 beam which the track of the sawmill will set into and can be adjusted from side to side in very small adjustments using opposing bolts. I will have one of these adjusters at each beam and anticipate 10 beams so I can adjust the track alignment every 4'. I didn't really want to span more than 4' with the 4" beam on the mill so I can keep down deflection.

Dave C
We're debt free!!! - Dave C, Nov 2015

ddcuning

Clark,
Carefull is the optimal word! The base of the trusses are 12' in the air so when we start setting tin, we will need to make sure we do not have any falls. The jig we built to hoist the trusses works great as a means of seting the purlins but won't work well for setting tin.

We worked for 8hrs yesterday disconnecting the generator that I bought to convert to a sawmill engine but then traded with my cousing for a Detroit 3-53. The building is now being demolished so we went and pulled the radiator (was separate with fan driven by an electric motor), the hospital grade silencer, disconnected it electrically and removed the fuel lines from the day tank to the gen set. Took all day in the 100F heat. I way underestimated the weight of the unit. I had my 2 ton engine crane to lift the gen set and get it on rollers and it was all it could do to lift it. I was expecting 4000-5000lb but I think it is more in the 7000-9000lb range. We tarped the gen set and they are going to take it through the roof with a tower crane this week and set it on our trailer. I am glad the trailer has a 12k capacity ....we will need it.

Dave C
We're debt free!!! - Dave C, Nov 2015

ddcuning

We finished up installing all of the purlins this weekend and got ready to set tin and realized, we had never done that before and didn't know where to start. I consulted a contractor friend and he set us on the right track. Sunday late, we went back over and checked square at the eve on one end of the building and by chance the roof is square. I was concerned due to the fact that the steel trusses that we used had a slight bow in them between the peak and the base that sits on the post. After a few measurements, we determined that even with the bow, the peak and post are in alignment. So, time to put the facia board on and start laying tin. We plan to start that this coming Friday and hopefully will be posting a pic in another week with a completed sawmill shed!

Dave C
We're debt free!!! - Dave C, Nov 2015

Meadows Miller

Gday

Nice progress so far Dave  ;) ;D ;D 8) I wouldn't mind calling in and having a look and giving you a hand while I am coming through your way as I will be visiting Meadows Mills in NC while im on my way south Mate  ;) ;D

Regards Chris
4TH Generation Timbergetter

ddcuning

Chris,
Stop by and see us. We are working on the shed on Friday afternoon and all day Sat this week. Not sure when you are headed this way. I work during the week so we only work on the shed on weekends.

Dave C
919-949-5812
We're debt free!!! - Dave C, Nov 2015

ddcuning

After traveling a lot since this summer, construction has been slow on the sawmill shed. We only have 10 sheets of tin left to put on and the end facia board and it will be complete. Hoping that by end of day tomorrow the shed will be done and it will be time to move the mill under the shed and start the setup. My thoughts are to set two telephone poles and bridge with (2) 2x12's bolted together as a beam to support the mill. I would sink the two telephon poles 18" deep min then I could saw them all off level once they are all set. Any other suggestions that will keep the cost down?

Dave C
We're debt free!!! - Dave C, Nov 2015

bandmiller2

Dave,I used phone pole sections for a mill foundation,don't think you'll have to worry about replacing them especially under a roof.I stretched a line and dug holes below frost, dumped a wheel barrel of concrete in each hole.When hard set a pole on it, crushed stone so I wouldn't form a pocket then more cement,finished with soil to grade.Leave the poles long and trim after using a laser, line or level.I notched the top for 4x6 cross pieces drilled and bolted.Used old black creasoat anywhere wood meets wood.Dig extra deep where the logs will be loaded and turned as theirs considerable racking there.Something to consider is carriage stops A one ton carriage and one ton log,your stopping the weight of an auto.Usally you use the feed lever to control the carriage, sometimes you don't stop in time and will hit the stops.That will jar the mill and can't help alignment.I burried a section of pole deeply at each end with a piece of light truck leaf spring sticking up for the carriage bumper to hit, will easily stop a runaway carriage.All the work will be worth it when your done. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

ddcuning

Thanks for the advice Frank. Well, time has come. After 5 months of work, we finished the sawmill shed this weekend. Glad to see that last screw go into the tin. Now I am going to start the sandblasting and painting of the mill at the home before we move it to the shed which is 4 miles from the house. Once the mill is sandblasted, primed, painted and moved to the shed, I will start the foundation. My original goal was to be sawing by Nov but with me traveling so much for work on the weekends this year, it has been tough gettting the shed completed. My new goal is to be sawing by summer of next year. My engine for the mill won't be ready until Dec anyway.

Dave C
We're debt free!!! - Dave C, Nov 2015

ddcuning

Latest picture of the completed sawmill shed. Special thanks has to go out to Forestry Forum members scsmith42 and kelLOGg for sawing most of the 2x6's that were used for the purlins. I only had to buy a few treated pieces that I placed on the outside row next to the rain drip edge on both sides. Thanks a lot guys, I couldn't have completed this project without you.

We're debt free!!! - Dave C, Nov 2015

Meadows Miller

Gday

Looking good Mate  :) ;) ;D ;D ;D 8) 8) 8)

Im sorry I could not drop by when I was coming through your neck off the woods when I was coming through the other month but ill have to come have a look one day Mate  ;)

Regards Chris
4TH Generation Timbergetter

ddcuning

Well it has been a long time but I dug the holes this past weekend and started setting piers for the sawmill. I got the generator head off of the Cummins so that I could determine what size PTO I needed to buy. I found that I have an SAE 1 bellhousing and an SAE 14 flywheel. Twin disc makes a SP214 PTO that is recommended since I am 190Hp but it is very expensive. If anyone knows where a PTO is for a good price, please let me know. I am going to keep working on the mill and continue looking for a good used PTO during the process.

Dave C
We're debt free!!! - Dave C, Nov 2015

sealark37

It is good to hear from you, Dave.  I was afraid that your real job was interfering with your quartersawing.  You might start watching govdeals.com for a used SAE clutch.  The Savannah River Authority auctions all of their stuff on this site at Holly Hill, SC.  They occasionally have used units with clutch, and sometimes used TwinDisc units.  The used equipment guys at the Cat dealer in Raleigh, Greg Poole, might have a line on what you need.  My sawmill project is moving slowly forward.  Keep us in touch with your progress.   Regards, Clark Howard 

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