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Drive Hub

Started by Mike_Worthan, December 17, 2003, 11:09:21 AM

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Mike_Worthan

Hello fellas.  New to the board.  I am in the process of finalizing plans for a simple saw type design and can't source out a part... the drive hub.  I figured some of you have used trailer tires on your home-mades and must have figured out how to mount the drive hub to an axle.  Seems that all I can find in live axle hubs are for ATV's or go-karts (wrong bolt pattern).  Thanks for your input.

ADfields

Welcome to the board! 8)

I don't understand just what you are trying to do hear.  You say you want a "live axle" and can't find one but they are under most cars, trucks and what not you just add the bearings to make them live.   You can get keyed wheel hubs to put on shaft stock to make up a "live axle" any way you want one.   We will need more info from you so we can get you pointed the right way.   Are you building a band mill, circle mill, gang saw or what?   What bolt pattern are you looking for and what do you want to bolt to it?   What are you thinking of driving it with, a shaft, flat or V-belt from what kind of motor?   Love to help just need more info! :-/
Andy

D._Frederick

Mike,
Would an axle out of a rear drive car or pickup meet your requirements? It would have the hub on it for mounting to a tire rim.

jwood

evening mike..the last one i built i used hubs form northern toolhttps://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=position"> Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company..it was #1-2190...but i see on their site that its no longer listed..it looks  like their # 138291 but i dont know about the bolt spacing..you might call  and ask if the 2190 is discontinued...good luck

ADfields

Hear is a link to jwood's #138291 hub.   It is a keyed type hub like I mentioned before.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=4006970&storeId=6970&productId=52526&langId=-1

Hear is a far better source for all kinds of this stuff but not as cheep.   They have a great catalog but you must be a customer to view the hole thing online, call them and ask for a paper one to ponder over.
 http://www.baumhydraulics.com/default.htm

Also a good source for some of this stuff is W.W. Grainger @.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/start.shtml


Agen, great to have you aboard! 8)
Andy

Mike_Worthan

Sorry about the lack of pertinant info needed.  What I am thinking of using is a 4.80x12 trailer rim and tire setup (20.5" O.D.)  for the bandwheels.  I know that the idler wheel would be a standard spindle & hub but the keyed hub that fits a standard 4 on 4" or 5 on 4 1/2" rim is hard for me to find.  Maybe not looking in the right place.  I did find plenty of sources for the keyed shaft, pillow bearings and sheaves for the v-belt drive I plan to use.  It will be a manual mill, 13hp honda probably (might try to opt for a higher HP motor if possible), two or four post design (wouldn't mind trying a cantilevered head but not sure what the design considerations are on such a design)... just trying to keep it simple and dependable.  I have made the rounds in my head about what I expect to do with this machine and initially started specing out parts to go hydraulic, electric drive, so on and so forth.  I am now thinking that I can do what I need to with a much simpler (realistic) setup.  I also believe that it will mostly have to keep up with my own needs and I wouldn't neccessarily need a lot of production out of it, just simplicity.

ADfields

I will be running a axle out of a Dodge 1/2 ton PU slid into pillow bearings and turned to fit common size so it's not a custom bearing.   This axle is a 5 on 4-1/2" bolt pattern.   Harold (FL-Deadheader) took a big pipe and made an offset pulley that bolts on the trailer hub behind the tire so the belt runs right behind the tire.   He used a cast iron pulley and cut the spokes so they fit over the pipe and bolted from the inside into taped holes in each spoke as I understand it.   It broke somehow and I never got the story of how he has it now.   We had a guy that welded a pulley right to the back of the rim also but I don't know how that went. :-/   My buddy next door is using 15" car tiers from the junk yard and the V-belt just wraps around the tire right behind the band, works fine for him. ;)

I have a catalog from someone with the keyed hubs like you want but I cant find the thing right off.   Just got back from a week in Arizona and the house sitter is a neat freak. >:(   I will let you know when I find it.
Andy

jwood

afternoon  mike...you might try  surplus center they list some  5bolt wheel hubs that wld fit trailer wheels only they are 1 1/4  taper shaft but thats easy to get around..
their # is 1-800-488-3407  or look at www.surpluscenter
under wheel hub search they list a couple..also the 530-12
 tires are 21.5  i think ,which is what i used..be sure to have them balanced  ..i was at homedepot today and saw that they had  480 and 530 's ..530's were $42 ...did't sort thru to see if they had 5 bolt..good luck

ADfields

Thanks jwood, that is the catalog I have and just found in the trash. >:( >:(   You left off the .com in your post so hear it is as a link. ;)
http://www.surpluscenter.com/

And the hub page it's self.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?UID=2003121815235770&catname=&byKeyword=yes&search=wheel%20hub

Andy

jwood

thanks AD i just went to surplus and tried to search wheel hubs and it says none to be found.i had wrote down the part #
1-2126 ..first time it came up a flange bearing..2 nd time a hub
..a tapered shaft might make for a tighter fit ..less vibration..

Kevin_H.

Hey there is a lot of cool stuff on that surplus center, you could spend hours just looking at all the stuff. had to put that one in the favorites.
Got my WM lt40g24, Setworks and debarker in oct. '97, been sawing part time ever since, Moving logs with a bobcat.

Wudman

Mike,

I used the axles out of a 9" Ford rearend.  I had to turn them down to fit a standard size pillow block.  The setup works very well for me.  I turned one end down to fit a 1" hub with a 15" pulley.  The axles were acquired at the local pick a part yard (about $5 each).  Pillow blocks came from Agri Supply (about $15 each).  The machine work was the expensive part.....cost about $150 to turn the two axles.  I guarantee that I will never ring an axle, though.  By the way, I used a four post design.  Good Luck.

Wudman
"You may tear down statues and burn buildings but you can't kill the spirit of patriots and when they've had enough this madness will end."
Charlie Daniels
July 4, 2020 (2 days before his death)

ADfields

Thats just what I did with my Dodge axle.   My machine work was $35 for 1 axle and the other side is a trailer hub.   Someday I will get time to make a sawmill out of my pile of parts out there! ::)
Andy

Fla._Deadheader

Hey Andy, my Pulley didn't break. Works like a charm. I think the new guy is using part numbers from Northern and looking in Surplus Center. The page he wants is 157, bottom right corner. Why don't these new guys ask their questions when I'm home ??? ::) ;D ;D :D :D :D :D :D

  How cold is it in Palmer??? think thats where ya live ::) :D :D
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

ADfields

Yup, I live just out of Palmer and it's 18 and snowing right now.   Just like I like it. :) 8) :D :D :D :D


I know just the mentioning of temps in the teens AND snow will have you shrieking :o but your fine!   Your still in Florida! ;)      :D :D :D    

Now what was the deal with your pulley?   I remember something happened with it when the high class VW motor went or just before that.   Maybe I got my wires crossed, that would be nothing new. :-/
Andy

Fla._Deadheader

Andy, never had a problem with that pulley adapter. I had fabbed up a shaft extension for the VW and it slipped back and disengaged from the flywheel. The engine developed a "tapping" sound.??? Otherwise, it's purt-near the same set-up.
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

D._Frederick

The hub that the Surplus Center has on page 157 was made for an inch shaft which is on the small side for your application. If you can't find anything better, at least go with a shaft that is harder than cold rolled.

cluckerplucker

mike I tried to send a picture of what Ibuilt but cannot get it small enough .send me your email  and ill send a photo. of what I built. I used a 11/4 shaft and turnned it down to 1in and keyed it to fit the 1 in. hub. the tire is from harbor fright 4 lug 20.5 in dia.the pillow blocks are from agri supply at 8 bucks.each.the pully from the local salvage yard. Cecil
cecil

cluckerplucker


 lets see if this works  thanks to tom , cecil
cecil

edsaws

Hey Cluckerplucker, thats tire set up looks similar to what i'm workin' on. Does it work ok? I'll not be able to attempt any cutting until springtime thanks

cluckerplucker

mike  So far it seems to work, that is run without the blade coming off ,I haven,t put it to wood yet I have to find the time to build the blade guard. And I am waiting for the dc motor to come in so I can rig it to the Acme  screws that lift the head up and down. When you slide the 11/2 square tube inside of the 2in tube there will be play.I drilled holes off center on the side of the 2in. tube and welded nuts so I can adjust the picth .of the wheel.I tightened up the bolts till the blade rode in the center of the wheel without the guides.I adjusted the vertical plane with a carpenter level.  cecil
cecil

donald_harby

Just an idea but if you use a 3/4 or 1 ton full floating axle hubs you could use a small diameter axle.  the axle would only transmit the torque.  Plus the idle wheel would be easy to set up.  

T_in_SC

Hey Mike,

Welcome to the forum.  I'm a Newbie too.  I built a two post mill on William Rake's design using a 13hp Honda.  I was having the same problem as you are.  I used a 1 1/4 cold rolled steel drive shaft and two trailer hubs from northern toolhttps://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=position"> Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company.  I found shaft collars (Dayton 2X740) at Grainger that were a close fit between the shaft and the outer rim of the hub.  Welded these together using stainless steel rods.  I was told these were the best kind to use on dissimilar metals.  I've only cut about 1500 BFT so far but this drive system and the tires seem to work fine.



D._Frederick

T.,
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but the way you welded the shaft to the hub your looking for a failure. It has been my experience that it will start to form a crack following the weld resulting in the hub breaking off. You will never see a factory made equipment welded that way.

ADfields

I must agree with D. on this one. :-/   It's fine on the end of the shaft but you should never weld all the way around a shaft like that.   If you must weld the back side it would be far better to put 1/4" spot welds with 1/4" skiped around it, called skip welding.   Like it is, at some point the shaft will fail right next to the weld and look like it was cut off with a saw. :-[   Sorry :-/
Andy

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