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Started by OlJarhead, March 07, 2011, 12:00:49 AM

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OlJarhead

OK so many know I bought the LT10 and have started milling for our cabin so I thought I post a few pics of our progress -- note to self:  I NEED STICKERS!


I decided to quarter saw this large pine that was blue stained.  I didn't know if pine would be better this way or not but wanted to try it.


We found this took A LOT longer to mill then just cutting cants and going for it but I'm hopeful the lumber will be more useable for cabinets etc.


One issue I found was that the wood was too wide to easily mill in half once we milled it out of the center of the log (15" w/o bark).  So we had to stack some previous lumber against the stops to move the wide boards into the middle of the mill and then could mill it in half to give 7 1/2" wide boards.


Josh (left) and James (right - step son) standing by our stack of lumber -- 4' tall by 42" wide and 8' long :)  Over 100 boards.


We ran out of time and had to leave the flitches sitting on the pallet for milling next weekend.  We also ran out of stickers!  I didn't have ANY when we began and only realized as we were milling that we needed dry stickers or the wood would stain.  So, in a pinch we cut stickers out of OSB that we had left over from the cabin build.

Next weekend I'm thinking we'll mill pine stickers and set them up to dry so we'll have some in the future.

I did some simple math (using the woodmizer book) and determined that we milled approximately 350 board feet of lumber this weekend.  It took as a long time to quarter saw the big pine (2 1/2 hours -- but we are complete newbies) however once we went back to straight sawing we milled 5 logs in 2 1/2 hours :D  We were VERY happy with that and can't wait to get 10-12 lined up for milling.

Also, a thanks to the poster who recommended using flitches (?) to lay on the snow and roll the logs over.  It was MUCH better!

Cheers
Erik
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

Ironwood

Congrats, a couple things.

  Are you going to try to move the pallets at any point? If so put some timbers under them so they dont freeze to the ground (I get used, fairly nasty RxR ties for free for this). You could nail some 2x2 to the bottom of the pallets also to help get the forks under the pile after freezing is not an issue (unlike the ties, they will travel with the pallet). Condensation is going to build under your tarps (unavoidable, even with the airflow aided by the ties) I found a second pallet on the top, with some sort of plywood or slip sheet of any sort will help this problem, doesnt have to be good or new or fancy (I look for ANYTHING to throw in there). Also, stickers sticking out the sides of the stack, around 2-4" will help keep the tarp from hindering airflow. I then tarp all the way down to the pallet and staple the tarp to the side of the pallet. High quality tarps can oft be had from either rubber roofing contractors dumpsters, or billboard companies cast off used signs. Once you find a source, take care of them. I get my long pallets anywhere I can, one really good source is a Sylvania Light operation that replaces commercial bulbs, tons of good ones, and they love to see me come take them. I get the 2x2 (mostly treated) from Lowes and Home Depot lumber sections. They cast off the bundling "cribbing" under their cantilevered racks by the dozen, especially this time of year when lumber consumption is high. They are also grooved for banding already which helps if I send a load out, I use them for my shipping ;D
Enjoy

Ironwood
There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

OlJarhead

Thanks Ironwood!

We won't be using a forklift, couldn't get one there anyway ;) but the boys will do nicely ;)

I was wondering about condensation and will pick some pallets up from work for this.  I've almost run out of scrap OSB and Plywood already!  Never thought I'd need any but it looks like a little more will be needed.

My plan is to let the wood dry for a month out of doors and then move a workable amount indoors for two weeks.  Then we'll plane it and mill it into T&G or Shiplap (still deciding there).

Of course, coating it with Poly will be tough in this location without getting dust or bugs in it but I guess that's what you have to deal with in the woods??  I figure I'll coat it before nailing it to the walls.

My plan is to have all the interior wood milled and ready to nail up by late April or early May and have the interior of the cabin completed by late June.

Then it will be time to finish the exterior (batting boards over the rough sawn plywood) and begin other projects.

We're still fighting the log clamps a bit.  One comes loose a lot but I think I know why now.  The book tells you to put one log clamp in the center of the mill/log but from forum member suggestions I bought a second.  I originally had them in the middle of the mill one section apart but moved them a little further this time -- only that meant one was at the end of the log and one near the first 3rd or so.  So I figure I need to move them both to the end of the log and hope that will settle the matter.

Another issue I'm wondering about is that the book tells you to make sure each rail of the mill is even all the way down (using a string and standoffs).  We did this however noticed that one rail dips and one doesn't.  It's only in the last 3-4 feet of the mill that it is noticeable but I think we need to pull the milling head off and level the whole thing -- maybe lift it a few more inches off the ground too.

We also noticed the guide cables get loose after a while and we had to tighten them a few times.

All in all however, I'm not just happy, but flipping ecstatic!  I can't wait to get milling again!
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

Ironwood

If you are using the wood that quickly, you better keep the sides open, so dont fully tarp. You will have lots of movement as it will not nearly be dry pior to final milling. You may need to consider kilning it if you can transport it and find one to cycle it through to get it to a workable moisture content.
Ironwood
There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

bandmiller2

I've found it better to leave green boards uncovered and save the tarping for dry lumber. On top of the green lumber pile overlap boards and make a peaked roof to shed water.Free air circulation is what dries lumber.Different parts of the country have different conditions you will soon find whats best for you.Nice cabin. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Magicman

Looking  :o good with your sawing.   :)

Quote from: OlJarhead on March 07, 2011, 12:59:14 AM
Then we'll plane it and mill it into T&G or Shiplap (still deciding there).

T&G, V groove is another option.  While emphasizing the cracks the V seems to minimize the appearance of any expanded cracks.



This is a V groove ceiling.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

thecfarm

Good pictures,good lumber,good help.Can't beat it.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Chuck White

Looks like you've got a good thing going there Erik!

Glad to hear you're enjoying the mill!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

flibob

Nice work.  Everybody likes pics.

Looks like you have good help also.
The ranch is so big and I'm such a little cowboy

OlJarhead

Quote from: Magicman on March 07, 2011, 07:39:31 AM
Looking  :o good with your sawing.   :)

Quote from: OlJarhead on March 07, 2011, 12:59:14 AM
Then we'll plane it and mill it into T&G or Shiplap (still deciding there).

T&G, V groove is another option.  While emphasizing the cracks the V seems to minimize the appearance of any expanded cracks.



This is a V groove ceiling.

Interesting.  I assume it's just a v-groove milled into the board just like a standard T&G with a router?
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

OlJarhead

Quote from: flibob on March 07, 2011, 08:42:35 AM
Nice work.  Everybody likes pics.

Looks like you have good help also.

Thanks all!

The help is priceless :D  They don't mind much either and were joking a lot while milling -- which with these two means they were enjoying themselves.

I notice the two week old pine that we had seemed dry already and the stuff we milled with the CSM shrank no more after two weeks.  Perhaps it's not 'dry' at that point but I suspect it will be fine.  Woodmizer shows air dry time for Ponderosa Pine of 15-150 days so I assume that means in a dry climate 15 days -- which puts us a little further out since humidity is a bit higher here then in the desert we live in.  Say 50% most days.
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

Magicman

Quote from: OlJarhead on March 07, 2011, 09:49:24 AM
I assume it's just a v-groove milled into the board just like a standard T&G with a router? 
I've done it with a router bit or a hand power planer.  Just knock the edge off of the tongue and the groove side.  The V is formed when you put the two boards together. 
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Brucer

It's not just condensation you have to worry about under a regular tarp. The humidity will stay way up and the wood will not dry quickly enough -- with pine you'll get mold and stain forming. Proper lumber tarp will let vapour pass through while preventing water from getting in. Around here the big mills usually give away used lumber tarps.

Lessons learned the hard way:

1) Make sure your stickers are at least 3/4" thick. I tried thinner stickers one season to keep the height of the piles down. Even with open sides, I had mold growing on the boards in the center of the pile.

2) Don't leave the sides of the pile open too long. I did that once and ended up with a very thin layer of very fine dust on all my boards. You didn't notice it until you put the wood through a planer >:(.

The variation in air-drying times is a function of the season. I found that my 1" Douglas-Fir air dries down to 10% MC in one week in July/August. It takes several months in the winter.
Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

OlJarhead

Quote from: Brucer on March 08, 2011, 12:53:24 AM
It's not just condensation you have to worry about under a regular tarp. The humidity will stay way up and the wood will not dry quickly enough -- with pine you'll get mold and stain forming. Proper lumber tarp will let vapour pass through while preventing water from getting in. Around here the big mills usually give away used lumber tarps.

Lessons learned the hard way:

1) Make sure your stickers are at least 3/4" thick. I tried thinner stickers one season to keep the height of the piles down. Even with open sides, I had mold growing on the boards in the center of the pile.

2) Don't leave the sides of the pile open too long. I did that once and ended up with a very thin layer of very fine dust on all my boards. You didn't notice it until you put the wood through a planer >:(.

The variation in air-drying times is a function of the season. I found that my 1" Douglas-Fir air dries down to 10% MC in one week in July/August. It takes several months in the winter.


Not sure what you mean about the dust with the sides open unless you mean dust (dirt) from being blown in?

I'll have to get bigger stickers.  We had none so used OSB instead.  Next trip we'll have to use pine and let it dry before using it as stickers -- we'll mill it and then stack it to dry.

I can live with a little stain but would like to dry the lumber without it too.
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

fred in montana

Looking good Marine! I raised my mill up off the ground to minimize the bending over.

woodmizer lt15, mf 65 tractor
logdovetailjig.com

OlJarhead

Quote from: fred in montana on March 08, 2011, 06:00:15 AM
Looking good Marine! I raised my mill up off the ground to minimize the bending over.



Semper Fi!

I might raise ours up a little but with the push bar as high as it is there isn't much bending over except to pick up the lumber -- and I have young men to do that! ha!
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

Kansas

Long ago, we started out with stickers that came from castoffs from a cabinet company. Don't know if you have a cabinet company in your area, or similar wood working company, but that laminate stuff they use for backing and sides never left a sticker stain. They didn't usually last for more than 3 or 4 loads in the kiln, but all that meant was another trip to the dump to get more. We eventually did switch to stickers, using either cottonwood or basswood.

metljakt

I went to a lumber yard & bought a pile of 48" stakes (cheap) and split them on the table saw.  They were already dry - used them as stickers.  Not that a former CAV guy needs to tell a Marine what to do.  (ha ha)

Brucer

Quote from: OlJarhead on March 08, 2011, 12:58:30 AM
Not sure what you mean about the dust with the sides open unless you mean dust (dirt) from being blown in?

Sorry. That's fine dust (dirt) blowing off the highway, carried over from the log yard, etc., etc. It doesn't seem like much as it's happening but over a few weeks it becomes noticeable.
Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

OlJarhead

Quote from: metljakt on March 08, 2011, 02:20:39 PM
I went to a lumber yard & bought a pile of 48" stakes (cheap) and split them on the table saw.  They were already dry - used them as stickers.  Not that a former CAV guy needs to tell a Marine what to do.  (ha ha)

Not a bad idea -- I'll have to see what I can find in similar locations.  Speaking of the CAV I served with 1st CAV in 13th Sig 98/99 when I was in the Army :)  I did both, 1st the corps then 5 years later the Army - to get some training to find work.  Was hard to find work as a machine gunner, grenadier, scout etc ;)
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

OlJarhead


Managed to get to the Cabin this past weekend and work on some of the pine we milled previously and dried over the last couple months (or longer I guess)...seen here my son is working on planing the lumber with my step son and I.


We planed about 15 boards (milled to 5/8"x9"x8' roughly -- some were 8" some 9" depending on the logs).


We then ran them through the router table we cobbled together (someone posted a link to some router bits here in the forum and I did some looking from there and found a set I thought would work -- they did, just not exactly what I thought!).


The old desk worked pretty well with a Ryobi plunge router mounted underneath it and a makeshift fence and guard tossed in for good measure.


Crude but effective :)  One thing to note:  when the router bit says "for 1/2" to 3/4" stock, it probably means it won't get the V-Groove in the 1/2" stock...DOH!


Then we got to nailing it up! :)  (My sons did all the cutting on my Makita Miter Saw and I did the measuring and nailing up...it was a great time!


When we were done it was just *DanG awesome!  I can't wait to get back and get more done!  And of course I can't wait to brush on the poly coat!!!!

2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

cypresskayaksllc

Nice work. Nothing better than feeding that stove and putting trees on the walls.
LT40HDDR, JD950FEL, Weimaraner

tyb525

And that's why I love sawmilling the most out of all my hobbies. You can be involved from start to finish. From harvesting the tree all the way to nailing the finished product on the wall, you're involved in all of it!
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

Chuck White

Nice looking operation you've got going there!

The wall looks awesome!  8)
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

ladylake


I thought the boys did all the work, I just saw a couple of pics with you doing some.  Bet your glad you bought that bandsaw.     Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

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