Tablesaw blade guards/shields

[D._Frederick]

After reading about "wdncno" run-in with his table saw blade, it started me looking into after-market shields.  Amazon has shields that are self supporting over the blade and give better access.

I like the Delta no.34-976, but would have trouble mounting it to my PM.

Do any of you wood working guys use any of the after-market shields on your table saw?

[beenthere]

No, I don't use the shields.

[Dodgy Loner]

I don't use the shields either. I do try to use caution. Neither is fool proof.

[SwampDonkey]

I don't use them either. I am also real cautious. And I am never in a hurry in my shop, I like to enjoy my time. ;D

[Larry]

I've never seen a guard I would be comfortable in using.  At the same time I do have an attachment for fingers...all 10 of em.

I do a couple of things in hope the fingers will remain attached.  I only run the blade a bit above the stock.  I do most of my crosscutting on a chopsaw.  The Delta splitter without guard is on the tablesaw 80% of the time.  The splitter has shop made wood flap where the guard used to be.

More important than any guard...I try to remember THINK before every cut.

[clww]

Never installed the guard on my Grizzly. Go slow, think and try to be ready if something unexpected happens is what I try to remember when running it.

[WDH]

No guard for me either.

[terrifictimbersllc]

I have the Biesemeyer guard on my Unisaw with 50" right hand extension.   Also a biesemeyer splitter.  Both easily come off and put back on, so there's no reason not to put it back on, it just slides into a holder over the blade.   Take it and the splitter off for dado or blind cuts or for whatever other reason,  and put both  back on.  Also the guard came with a vac hose for the shop vac to connect to the guard housing.    The guard hangs over the blade and has a counterweight so it rises easily when you push something under it.  The splitter has spring loaded teeth that allows the wood to go through in only the forward direction.   If there's a reason not to use it just take it off. 

Can't remember when the last time I had kickback with this setup.  But I remember plenty of kickback with my previous contractor's saw, and with Unisaws I used in factory work, which didn't have such guards or splitters.  Including a 4x8 sheet of plywood flying through the air. 

I wouldn't consider not using the guard/shield, there's no reason to.   it feels creepy cutting without it.

[tyb525]

I don't use a guard, I've used several different styles and every one of them were awkward and made me feel uncomfortable and actually less safe.

I think the best safety measure is to only use the saw when you are COMPLETELY clear-headed and focused, and NEVER make a cut unless you are totally confident that you can do it safely.

Don't put the blade any higher than it needs to be to cut the wood, and keep your hands as far from the blade as possible.

Use a push pad stick if the stock is narrower than 6 inches.

Use a zero-clearance insert.

Don't wear gloves, they can get caught (don't ask me how I know)

And finally, make sure your blade is parallel with your fence to minimize binding that could lead to kickback.

[SwampDonkey]

I always check square with blade and table and with fence. So far in 15 years with this saw the only thing that has been thrown is small cutoff ends that the blade might strike near the insert, like veneer thin pieces. Mostly harmless, but sometimes makes a little whack noise. ;)

[Larry]

and with Unisaws I used in factory work, which didn't have such guards or splitters.  Including a 4x8 sheet of plywood flying through the air.  

After high school my first full time job was in a production cabinet shop running a table saw 8 hours a day.  We had a big order that required ripping some 3/4" 4 X 8 sheets of walnut plywood.  Few sheets into the order I got careless...not for sure what happened but a full sheet of plywood went flying over my head and took out four fluorescent fixtures on the ceiling.  Sparks were a flying.  Everybody in the plant quit working just to see what I did. :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[

Boss said my paycheck would bout cover the cost of that plywood.

[D._Frederick]

The problem that result in major injury to four of "wdncno" fingers was a simple knot with no guard.

I've come to the conclusion that if a person wants to have 10 fingers, they had better use the guard or get a SAWSTOP saw.

I can remember going to the shingle mills with my father as a child, I could tell who the shingle sawyer was looking at the missing fingers on his hands.   

[SwampDonkey]

I don't think anyone would disagree. ;)

[trapper]

know very little about woodworking. I am afraid of my tablesaw. I think that is good and makes me more careful.  I have an old craftsman with no guard an an exposed belt.  When at the woodworking show I was looking at and considering buying one of those pushblocks that have rubber surfaces on the bottom and go on both sides of the blade. anyone use them and do they help?

[pigman]

I think the best safety measure is to only use the saw when you are COMPLETELY clear-headed...

If I did that ty, I would never use the table saw. :(
I only have a home made splitter to help prevent kickbacks. I also only raise the blade high enough to maybe cut a finger half off.

[Ironwood]

BIG Saw (Oliver 88), no guard, VERY cautious. Sound alone scares most people out of the shop ;D I have tons of homemade push sticks everywhere (painted bright red to boot). I also have several rubber halloween hands and arms around the shop, including fake blood as a reminder to be safe, that helps :D No joke they are stapled to the wall near the light switch, cant miss them  ;)

That said, a power feeder on the outfeed side can be VERY helpful as it there where most incidences occur, final push, past blade, leaning,  etc,..... I have used them to do VERY repetive cuts (stickers, although now use bandsaw for that) . A good powerfeeder is a great safety addition.

Trapper, I still have a warm spot in my heart for those old wrinkle grey Craftsman's w/ swirled steel look. My first saw, I still buy them when I see them, 1960-70 or so. GOOD job site saw, and motors are easily replaceable. Usually pass them on to friends and family for a general use single phase saw. A great upgrade for those is a segmented belt, dampens vibrations.

Ironwood

[trapper]

Ironwood  Thanks for the tip. I have one of those belts on my1953 international tractor for the fanbelt.
hydraulic pump on front to remove and have to drop front axel to replace fanbelt acording to instructions.  I took the easy way out and it works good.

[shinnlinger]

While I have no guard on my home table saw, I think it is time for all of us to reconsider.  Nobody ever thinks he is going to cut a finger off, but lots of folks who knew better have done just that. 

Truth is, alot of the new guards are pretty good, but no one uses them.  I just installed two new sawstops in my high school shop.  Ironically, the guards on these are the best I have ever seen.  The pop off in a hurry without tools and they work really well without getting in the way.  I think the home owner sawstop is about $1200.  Pretty cheap if you consider what an emergency room visit would be in an amputation situation, let alone the potential of a life altering injury.  Since the law suite last summer, I bet there will be sawstop technology in alot of table saws in the near future and that will drive the price down even more.

Something to think about.

Let me know which guard you get, and maybe I will get one too.

Dave

[Dan_Shade]

I think healthy respect is better than fear of a table saw.

sometimes being scared will lead to an accident because you are afraid to properly push the board through.

I feel the best thing it so know what causes kickback (the main cause of amputations) and do what you can to avoid it.  Here is a great video explaining kickback:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVpGi85HfnY

[shinnlinger]

THats a good video Dan, 

I will have my students watch it. 

Thanks.

[flibob]

On the subjest of guards.   I just finished putting the free (not even shipping) guard on my old craftsman radial arm.  I is a great improvement.  Just do a google on craftsman radial arm recall.

[Ironwood]

Good video.

Ironwood

[RPF2509]

I've used the push stick with the rubber bottom and like it  a lot.  The best part about it over traditional home made push sticks is that you can put pressure over the whole piece instead of just the end. I feel you can get better control and be able to push laterally against the fence as well as forward into the blade.  The top pressure you can exert gives a lot of confidence when things get a bit dicey with a hard to cut piece or a piece with internal pressure that starts squeezing the blade as you cut.  I worked in a production shop with a power feed and that was the sweet setup - get one if you can afford it.  By the way I never use a guard and no one in the shop used a guard either.  I would consider some of the newer ones though.  Feather boards help too but can be a hassel to set up for a single cut or two.

[D._Frederick]

I agree, if a person wants 10 fingers, the SAW STOP is the way to go.

I wonder how good they hold up with 2 cog belts driving the blade? Anybody here using one?

I have a chop saw that has a cog belt and if you hit a knot while sawing a 2 x 4 and not careful, the belt is good bye.

[tomb]

Trapper and RPF2509 are referring to the Gripper system.    Here are some photos of the two I have.






Its the green foam pads that grip onto your work piece and dont let go until you do.  I wouldnt be without these when cutting on my equipment.  They are adjustable so that they can be used on the bandsaw, jointer, tablesaw and router table.  I use both of them when cutting long stock on the tablesaw. 
Heres a short video demo of the Gripper, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7o7A_3fXhJg