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Leaking E2300

Started by richsei, February 03, 2011, 02:40:53 PM

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richsei

I have noticed my E2300 was low on water it is down about 1 1/2" at 175 deg. from where it has been from the day we put it in 2yr ago. this has just happened over the last 7 to 10 days. I dont see water leaking on the inside of the 2300 but then again I'm not sure what to look for. 
  It also will not relight the wood when the fire goes out the relight burner will burn for about 10 sec and then go out. It did this earlier this summer they had the dealer do a lot of testing but never did find what was making it do this and then it just started working..

I love my E2300 but I need it to work....

Anyone else having this kind of problem?

Dealer will be out 2/4/11 to look at it. 

firechief

I don't have this problem but seems like lately there have been several 2300 that have started leaking this winter.
I'll keep my fingers crossed that mine doesn't, good luck with the reapair.

Firechief

albirk

When my stove started leaking (cb 5648 different aniamal than the 2300)i was raking the coals around and found wet ashes then looked closer in that aera and found the leak the leak was at the top of my normal ash bed around 6to 8"up on the side close to the front corner

richsei

Ok update I had the dealer out and he cleaned the relight burner worked great for a day. I have had to relight my 2300 3 times by hand so guess I still have a problem there.
My water leak has slowed down I think kind of hard to tell it's only dropped about 1/8 to a 1/4" from the 3rd we looked it over and didnt find any water in the fire box so guess I still have a problem there.
I'll be calling Central Boiler  to day and telling them I want a replacement. I have been fighting this 2300 form day one with not lighting the dealer has replaced the burner with the new one we have checked gas, we have put in some air restricters we have talked to Central Boiler and no one can find out why it will not light. Not fun getting up and finding your $12000 wood stove at 130 deg.  I bet the dealer has been out here 10 times to work on this 2300 in a year. >:(

anf

richsei

You'd know if your water was leaking or not.  My leak is bad, the water level gauge on the back from full drops to the very bottom on the plastic tube in 3 days on mine.  I think its about 30 gallons.

Thats a leak, my water quality went all to hell because I'm adding so much new water, I have to clean out the firebox every 2 days because of the tar that builds up in the front right corner, and it must be getting worse because I'm starting to get liquid tar build up in the reaction chamber. 

Stove is chewing through wood right now, but I'm still getting heat, I set it to 190.  Good luck on yours, a weld might do the trick.

I'm happy to still have heat!

richsei

Well I talked to  CB and was told that they never had a problem with there burners So I asked why did you replace them with a new one and I was told that they made a better one ???. But they told me they will replace my 2300 with another 2300 all I have to do is pay to ship my 2300 to them and pay to ship the refurbished back to me. So let me get this I have to pay to send a 2300 back that dose not work right and has not worked from day 1 then I have to pay to for them to ship me a refurbished one back to me. If it was a E2400 I may think about it but dont even know if I would do it then.  For the most part what CB told me was I would have to pay for shipping is because my dealer dont know what he is doing. I informed him my dealer has tried every thing that CB has asked us to do so I know it's not the dealers problem. It's CB's problem.  I have Gene coming out again to day to check the gas and go over the check list one more time like CB wants. I was told if you go by the check list step by step there is no problem that cant be fixed and if dont work after doing the check list the dealer must of missed a step what a bunch of BS.

richsei

anf
I do have the build up in the left front corner and I do get the liquid tar out of the front air hole, Still trying to find the hole. Thanks for the Info.

richsei

Here's a pic of the smoke/steam after the 2300 has been burning for about 2hr. dose this look like steam or smoke? and yes the stove is cleaned out. 

Dean186

Looking at just the photo, it looks like smoke to me.

doctorb

Agree.  Have you checked to see if you are getting full gasification?
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

richsei

doctorb and how would I know if I'm getting full gasification? by the way it is still smoking and it has been 4 hrs

doctorb

Dean had a thread a little while ago with a great video of the reaction chamber during gasification.  I am sure he can direct you to it.  Give him a PM.  The process of checking gasification involves removal of the RC door while it's running.  Be careful.  Anyway, the "blowtorch" within the RC is unmistakable.  The fact that the unit is smokling tells me that you are not getting gasification fully. 

I know you said the stove is clean.  Is the wood dry?  Every airhole poked out?  RC empty?  No creosote buildup holding the damper door open a bit? 

You can check for air flow by pushing in the "button" for the fan curcuits at the lower left of the door opening with the firebox door open.  You should be able to hear the air being forced into the firebox and fusion chamber, especially at high burn.  You should see the coal bed fire up under this airflow.  The biggerst problems with inefficiency of the 2300 is air starved fires due to some blockage somewhere, or the relaease of proper airflow out of the bypass door becasue of a poor seal.
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

jason1977

what is best way to clean the bypass door?  i stick my arm in back of the stove and try to scrape around in there but i cant see if i did any good.  i dont use the bypass anymore but i do think i have some build up in there

doctorb

I clean it with a long handled narrow (?4") hoe purchased at Home Depot.  The blade is minimally angled to the handle.  I clean less the door itself than the hexagonal faces of the outlet which it closes.  I clean it with a fire in the firebox, so the heat softens the creosote.  I just wipe whatever it picks up (which is not much) on the wood so the creosote burns up.  I make a point of scraping the edge of the outlet where it meets the door in a side to side motion.  I usually close and open my bypass door several times before leaving it closed for good for this wood load.  I do this to knock off any remaining creosote on the face or edge of the bypass door itself.  I do not scrape the door itself because I don't want to bend it.  Usually, I have partially loaded the firebox at this time and the fire is beginning to rage pretty good.  That softens any buildup that has occurred during the last day or so.

Doctorb
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

boilerman101

Richsei: Looking at your picture, is the sun coming through the plume? If so, the darkness may be just shadow. The correct way to view a plume is to stand about 25 feet back from the chimney with the sun directly behind you. If it is steam, there should be a clear heat waver separation above the chimney of around 1 1/2 feet then the steam plume. If it is smoke, there will be no separation. You also said unit was all cleaned out, I've found for the best gasification and cleanest burn with my E-Classic, you need a shallow bed of coals to pull the smoke, gas and fire down through...The quick guide that Central Boiler sent out with this recommendation helped me a lot.

Dean186

Quote from: boilerman101 on February 09, 2011, 11:28:54 PM
If it is steam, there should be a clear heat waver separation above the chimney of around 1 1/2 feet then the steam plume. If it is smoke, there will be no separation.

Boilerman101 makes a good point.  When I have mostly steam, there is a separation at the end of the chimney.

Richsie, At least you have an experienced dealer helping you solve the relight issue and possible leak.

Doctorb,  It was ecrane "Ed" that provided us that reaction chamber video.  Below is the link.

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,47112.0.html

doctorb

Dean-  Thanks for the correction.  No wonder I couldn't find it!  I agree with the wafts of heat you see right out of the stack during gasification.  I can't say that I have ever experienced steam from my boiler very much.

Richsie-  You do not have a cap on your stack in your picture.  I use one, (it was installed with the stove) and I would suggest you do too.  It keeps precipitation out of the stove and I think that any water in the unit should be minimized.  At the suggestion of others, I removed the spark screen on my cap to prevent the build-up of creosote and possible partial obstruction of outflow from the furnace.
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

richsei

Dean and Doctorb Thanks for the Info, I have Gene coming out to day (12th) to do the checks I'll let you know what we find out when we get done.

stumper

May I suggest a safer easier way to check for gasification.  I open the by pass then spin the nut off a ways and pull the RC cover back a bit, then close the by-pass.  If I have gassification there is a distict roar, no roar no gasification.  If I don't hear a roar I then satrt to tack down why.

richsei

Well it looks like the igniter was bad so we replaced it and so far it has been work I'll just have to keep a eye on it and see if it keeps work well let you all know.

Dean186

Quote from: richsei on February 17, 2011, 05:24:15 PM
Well it looks like the igniter was bad so we replaced it and so far it has been work I'll just have to keep a eye on it and see if it keeps work well let you all know.

I hope the new ignition device fixes the relight issue.  Was there ever a leak?  If so, what is it's status? 

richsei

Dean
I have lost some more water but it so slow. and no we didnt find where it was leaking from. Guess the wife will have to keep a eye on it I have to go back to work for 5 weeks.

Oh also just to update everyone the E2300 is back to not lighting lol. Gene will be out to look at it again in the next few days...

doctorb

While I obviously have not seen your stove, and I have no experience with e-2300 leaks, my gut reaction is that your two problems, lighting the fire and water loss, are related.  Just my $0.02 worth.  There is no reason for the new ignighter to fail so soon after being installed except a water leak preventing it from lighting.
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

richsei

Just a quick update Gene came out and did some more work and testing on my CB and didnt find anything out of Adj. But he did tell me that it was still doing the same thing (lighting for a few sec. then going out).  So CB has told him to replace the upper burner again. It has only been replaced 3 times I bet it dont fix it.

Anyone got any contact phone # to anyone at CB that can get this junk replaced???you would think after almost 1 1/2 years of having the same problem and the dealer out every Mo. for the last 1 1/2 years they would replace it.

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