Frick Mill Identification

[ddcuning]

For Christmas, I bought myself a Frick circle mill but do not know how to identify which model it is. There was no tag on it and I haven't found on the web anywere that help me identify which model I have. I went today and got the blade off of it to be hammered and the blade measures 54". It came with two 54" blades and one 46". The mill and carriage are all steel and the carriage is 16' long with 4 evenly spaced headblocks. It appears that someone at one point welded wheels on the bottom of the mill and added a receiver that can be hooked to a tractor to move the mill. There was a book with the mill but it is so moth eaten that I cannot make out any identifying information that would tell me where the mill came from. Any help would be appreciated.

Dave
Pittsboro, NC.

[Dave_]

Welcome to the Forum! 

This might help:
http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=6066

[sealark37]

Hello Dave-  My Frick mill is marked on the horizontal leg of the headblocks.  It was identified to me as a "OO" by the previous owner.  Most of the mills I have examined in our area are a mixture of parts from several, if not many different manufacturers.  I suppose that wear and tear, as well as owner modifications have been responsible for leaving very few, if any, mills in original condition.  No matter what a mill is identified as, most have parts from Frick, American, Turner, Meadows, and many others.  Not to mention the parts and assemblies of local design and manufacture.  I have been told many ways to identify the various makes, but it appears that the exception is the rule.  Good luck with your Christmas present, and don't be a stranger to the forum.  We love stories, and most of all, pictures.  Regards, Clark

[ddcuning]

Thanks Clark. I know the carriage is a Frick with 1156C headblocks but other than that not much else. As you mentioned about other parts, the carriage has been fitted with a Meadows thickness gauge. The husk frame and shaft configuration all appear to be similar to what I have seen on other Frick mills. The mill came with two 54" blades and a 46" and is currently is powered (or rather not powered) by an International UD-14 which I am going to sell. It has a cylinder down and I don't plan to mess with it. I have a Detroit Diesel 3-53 that I am going to match up to the mill which should work well. Hopefully, we should be quartersawing oak by fall. Have to get the shed built next. I will post pictures once I get the mill uncovered and as it progresses. It was sitting under a shed and is beneath 2' of sawdust.

Dave C

[Meadows Miller]

Gday

And Welcome to The Forum dd you have got what sounds to be the makings of a good mill there and it should not take much to get going again an easy way to check is the headblock openings 00 is 35" 01 is 40" and so on I think you would have either one of those mate  ;) along with the power plant upgrade that 371 will pull that size mill well Dave  ;) ;D ;D 8) 8) Im looking forward to the pics Mate  ;)

Regards Chris

[sealark37]

Hello Dave- Let me know how much you want for the UD-14.  If I can't afford it, maybe I can help you find a buyer.  Regards, Clark         sealark37@earthlink.net

[ddcuning]

Clark,
I was thinking $400. It is a boat anchor to me since I don't want to fix it. I got my Detroit 3-53 for free so anything I get for the UD-14 is on the plus side. It has your name on it until I hear otherwise.

Dave C
dcunningham@aeieng.com

[ddcuning]

Ok guys, everyone wants pictures so here is the mill I bought in Dec. I love these old circle mills! Nothing against the new portable band mills but I would take one of these oldies any day over a new one!

[Dave_]

Dave, looks like you have a great old mill there!  Being under cover has helped your cause a bunch 8)  Keep us posted (with pics ;)) as the project progresses.  I don't know anything specific about Fricks, but looking at your pics, I'd say a 00 is a good guess based on the width of the feedworks friction belts.

[bandmiller2]

Welcome Dave,you have all the fixens of a good mill there.First thing I'd do is some mill bumming,that is travel and look at as many mills as you can find.Foundation and elevations of the mill parts is important and adds alot to the functioning of the mill.From your pictures the foundation of that mill could use improvement where its set up.Does my old heart good to see renewed intrest in the older circle mills.Past posts have a wealth of information and were all sitting on ready to help you if you need it.Frank C.

[ddcuning]

Thanks Frank, I am sure when I start setting it up, I will have some questions that maybe everyone here can help me with. The foundation where it sites is cross ties which are mostly shot. I had planned to put in concrete piers at the new location and then finish off the last 4" with white oak timbers and shims for adjustment. The way the mill sits now, if running and you walked up to it with a loose shoe string, you might find yourself up close and personal with a very large saw blade. :( For height, I had planned on elevating the mill so that the base of the headblocks is about 30". This lets you adjust logs by lifting rather than squatting on the ground and trying to lift like the mill is configured now. Also, the elevation would prevent you from tripping and falling into the saw. I have sawn for 6 years on a wooden Frick mill and it is elevated 30" as I discussed. Have sawed on a couple of others but I like the elevation the best. Mostly we will be quartersawing so the elevation also allows ease of spinning the quarter once you are half through, at least the way we saw with pith up.

Dave C

[bandmiller2]

Thats good Dave its not your first rodeo, proper working hight means alot.Most of the old mill builders used  that beautiful, stable southern hard pine.I was told white oak wile strong tends to move around a little too much.When I set up my mill I recut high line cross beams weathered but some of the finest Douglas fir I've seen, can't find a knot.My foundation is sections of treated phone poles set in cement as I wanted the mill somewhat removable. Frank C.

[b dukes]

Welcome!  Looks like you are off to a good start with the fixins for a nice mill. Keep us posted. If its all there your are ahead of me.

[woodpeckerlips]

My opinion is there's no other mill but a frick. I have been around and run a lot of them. I have a 00 frick with a 3-71 I run.   Your right about the height on setting up the mill. The higher you can stand to set it up makes it easier to clean under. Easier to roll logs off the deck to the carraige. Easier to do maint on sawdust removal system.  Just everything is esier. I have a plat form at the log deck that I step up onto when the carraige is back and I have to adjust, turn, the log.  Other than that where I stand, the bottom of the head blocks pass by at just below my belt. This allows me to reach over the log to my set works and is very comfortable to operate and watch the sawing operation down the line! There's always hind sight with everything.  Just keep in mind that the more user freindly and comfortable you make it on the set up, the more enjoyable the mill will be for a lot longer time than it took to set it up!   

[captain_crunch]

Frank
Cross arm stock is a real high grade of Doug Fir makeing them ideal to work with

[bandmiller2]

Captain C. your right on that doug fir.Those cross arms were 40' long but the crew cut them when they replaced them.I trued them up on the bandmill just like new inside.Saved all that spiffy galvy hardwear too.  Frank C.

[ddcuning]

I do like the idea of the carriage being just about belt height. I think standing at the sawyer position with the mill elevated feels more safe. You don't have that constant sense that you are going to make a wrong move and fall into the sawblade.

As an update, we removed the UD-14 this weekend and I hope to pull the mill out this coming weekend. It took several hours to get the UD-14 home, I was pulling it with the tractor (the UD-14 has an old car axle under it) and the tires came all apart. The rim wasnt riding on the road so I continued to drag it home which took forever.

Dave C

[Ron Wenrich]

I always put my mills at mid thigh level.  It allowed me to push the logs back against the headblocks with my thigh.  On the older mills, you would push against the log as it went past.  Also, it was easier to grab dogs, turn logs or cants, and to grab the setworks handle.  Turning logs with a cant hook is easier when using the power of your legs instead of the power of your back.  But, to each his own.

A good leather apron saves quite a few pairs of jeans.

[Dave_]

I was pulling it with the tractor (the UD-14 has an old car axle under it) and the tires came all apart. The rim wasnt riding on the road so I continued to drag it home which took forever.

I got this mental picture of one of those car chases we see on tv with the bad guy's car rims throwing sparks :D :D  We ask for pictures, but sometimes a video is in order.

Just kidding ;D

I'm glad that everything worked out in getting the engine home.  Post pics of the mill move cause more than a few of us have been there and would like to share the experience with you ;)  It's like seeing a Christmas present coming home on a trailer.

[bandmiller2]

Dave I had to laugh reading of your trip home.My first circular mill was down the street and in the woods.I didn't have a machine to lift the old cat D318 power unit so I made a thick wood skid drug it over with the tractor just made it before the skid wore away.My bunks are the same hight as Rons its handy to use your hip to seat the cants agenst the headblocks.Your right about the safety thing its like the gunnels on a fishing boat gives you something lean agenst. Frank C.

[ddcuning]

We did get quite a few strange looks. With the tire still on but burst, the engine flopped back and forth as we pulled it. It was a spectical to behold. Even at 2mph, the second tire burst as I was within site of my driveway. Needless to say, before we put tires on the mill and move it, we will get some used tires that are in good shape rather than putting in tubes again.

One item to mention that adds to the story, as we were cleaning out the shed next to the mill (saw blads, bits, shanks, belts, etc.) we found something we didn't feel like brining home. The shed had fallen off of its foundation knocking a hole in the floor and scattering bits and shanks that we had to search on the floor for amidst sawdust and leaves. When searching through a pile of leaves in the corner, we woke a very unhappy opossum that resulted in our quick exit of the shed. Luckily, we had already removed the blades and if that opossum wants to keep any extra teeth and shanks he finds, he can have them.

Dave C

[b dukes]

How many people let you know you had a blown tire, like you didnt allready know  :D    The last time that happened to me we were pulling a watermelon trailer from the field to the house. The tire blowed out about 1/2 a mile from home. I done the samething as you, slowed down to about 5 mph with the flashers on. People were pulling up beside me, blowing the horn and pointing to help me out.  ;D

[KyTreeFarmer]

b dukes.....did you say "watermelon patch" and exactly where do you  live??????
KTF

[b dukes]

Yeah watermelons there are alot grown around here.  We use to plant about ten acres every year. That dont seem like alot unless you have never worked in watermelons.  I live about 110 miles north of the Fl. line , kinda in the middle of Ga.

[KyTreeFarmer]

b dukes     good thing its a little too far for a late night visit come summertime. Oh well I am too old to run with a melon tucked under my arm anyway!  ;D ;D