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Making a square cutoff with a hand saw

Started by Brad_bb, January 19, 2011, 12:43:55 AM

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Brad_bb

Collin Beggs demonstrated this simple technique for me.  I wish I had known how to use a hand saw a long time ago.  It would have eliminated a lot of frustration.

A sharp crosscut hand saw is needed for this technique.  A sharp one will make quick work of a cutoff, and will not wear you out like a dull blade would.  You also have better control with a sharp one.  I like the Stanley Sharp Tooth line of hand saws.

Step 1.  After marking your primary and secondary reference faces, use your framing square to mark out your first line, starting at your reference edge. Make sure the square is referencing(body of square is against) the reference face adjacent to the reference face you are marking for this first line. Use your razor knife to score this line.


Step 2.  Set the body of your framing square on your reference face, in this case, the primary reference face. Drop lines on either side with your razor knife. Then roll your timber over and connect these to lines on the opposite face. Caution: You only want to connect these lines, do not reference your square to any face, just connect them with a line using your razor knife and straight edge.


Step 3.  Now make kerf cuts on each line about 1/16th to 1/8th inch deep. Slowly work the saw on the waste side of the razor line and slowly develop the kerf along the razor line. The razor line cuts the outer fibers to give you a clean line when you use your hand saw. Use your finger to guide the saw blade as you make the kerf. Crosscut saws(all hand saws) will have a bow to them to one side, but you can still guide the saw to stay along your straight razor line.


Step 4.  Now, using your kerfs as guides, begin cutting the corner. Start your cut more flat and gradually angle it down more until it gets to 45 degrees. Cut until the opposite corners meet.


Step 5.  Now turn around and do a similar 45 degree saw cut on the other side starting at the top corner and going until the opposite corners meet. Use your kerfs as a guide.


Step 6.  Now roll the timber to the bottom side and repeat steps 4 and 5.  Now you have a very square cut as reference to the reference face.  You may want to clean a center slightly with a chisel or slick if it needs it, but if done right, it will take little to no shaving to have a clean face.  You now know how to make a square cut with a hand saw.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

icolquhoun

Brad, very informative write-up!
on step 4, I have always found it easier to cut the "front+top" instead of the "back+top" as you have shown.  being short, I can see the front side on my sawhorses better than the back.  I then jump over to the backside and carry on just as you have shown.  other that that one small difference, this is exactly how I do it as well.
+2 on the stanley sharpstooth 26" saw.  out of modern saws, it's the best I have found, although I still prefer my disston ripping saw for rip-work.

Brad_bb

I understand that it is a preference issue.  I may stand more over the timber and cut the far side 45 degree first, whereas you may prefer to kneel down a bit to cut the near side 45 degree first.  Granted with my method, you cannot "see" the far side line, but you do have your kerf cut as the guide.  I feel I have better body position though.  Hopefully I've understood you correctly.

I was asked about this in another thread, so I thought I'd sketch it out and post it.  It's amazing how many people don't know this and have been frustrated with a hand saw their whole life, never being able to make a square cut- me included up to a few years ago.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

ljmathias

Thanks, Brad- like most things in life, seems obvious once you know the answer. :D :D

Lj
LT40, Long tractor with FEL and backhoe, lots of TF tools, beautiful wife of 50 years plus 4 kids, 5 grandsons AND TWO GRANDDAUGHTERS all healthy plus too many ideas and plans and not enough time and energy

dukndog

Great post and illustration. Being a "noob" to this TF stuff, this will be handy!! Thanks for sharing!!

Rich Miller
WM LT-15G25 w/PwrFeed, Mahindra 3510, Husky 385xp, Stihl MS261 and a wife who supports my hobby!!

Jim_Rogers

Follow Dave's rule, only cut the lines you can see.....

If you're standing in a position where you can't see the line then the saw should not be cutting that line.

When you can see the line, you can direct the saw to cut that line. If you can't see that line how are you going to know that the saw is cutting "off " the line?

This is one of the first and basic rules of timber framing, and cutting with a hand saw.

"Only cut what you can see......"
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

Brad_bb

I agree with Jim.  I'm usually watching my line when doing this from the top side.  I check and can see that I'm staying in the kerf.  You never just saw blindly.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

Mr Mac

if the cuts on the end of the timber are concave, is this the result of not guiding the blade with your finger and the bow of the blade cuts the concave?

Thanks

Brad_bb

If you've followed the technique I've out lined, you should not have a concave cut.  The part where you need to focus on guiding with your finger so that it's not bowing, is when making the shallow kerf starting cuts.  Once they are established, you should not have a problem.  The kerfs will guide your cut.  But by all means check your final cut.  Concave is usually not a problem, but if any of the material is proud, you'll have to use your slick or chisel to clean it up.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

canopy

This is a fundamental building block every timber framer should have etched in their memory. I was lucky enough to have a tf guild member show me this technique when I started timber framing and was fascinated by the precision allowed.  There was one difference however in how I was taught--the last step was not to roll the timber and repeat the 45 degree cuts, but instead to just finish it out by cutting straight down after the 2 top 45 degree cuts were complete. I like the final touch mentioned here and will try it to compare.

One problem I have that perplexes me. In the real world (at least for me), references faces are never perfect. Meaning they aren't always exactly 90 degrees perpendicular or exactly straight and level down the run of the timber. So a little twist, bow, and wane can throw things off. Sometimes just placing the framing square becomes error prone when there is wane where the line needs drawn. So overall as accurate as I try to be (even when there is no wane) sometimes there is enough deviation in the reference faces that I end up with a less than perfect cut and so end up with a very tough chiseling job to level it true. A lot of times it ends up fine, but it is always troubling to me when this happens.

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