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394xp

Started by crd1957, December 29, 2010, 05:15:58 PM

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crd1957

i have found a 394xp husq for 200.00. no bar no chain. needs new chainbrake and new sprocket.saw starts and runs.bar oiler works. saw showes 135# comp.is this saw worth investing any money in.it would be used to cut stumps lower so my stump grinder can be used less.im using a 460 husq. with a 24 in. bar.sometimes i need alonger bar. will the 394xp carry a 36 in. bar easily?thanks for any info.
a man should never wear a hat that has more character than he has. (will rogers)

Rocky_J

The 394 should pull a 32" easily and should manage a 36" without difficulty.
But your MS460 will pull a 28" easily and a 32" without too much difficulty.

135 sounds like it could be a bit light on compression, but numbers are almost worthless because there can be so much variation in testing methods. I'd ask to pull the muffler and inspect the piston for scoring. Some light marks won't hurt much but deeper scratches or gouges indicate damage from running lean.

ladylake

 Sounds good to me, also a real good price.  It should have no problen with a 36" bar, 135# comp could be a hair low but if it cuts good run, on the other hand new rings are cheap and not hard to put in.   You should pull the muff and look at the piston before you buy it.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

ladylake

Quote from: Rocky_J on December 29, 2010, 06:15:32 PM
The 394 should pull a 32" easily and should manage a 36" without difficulty.
But your MS460 will pull a 28" easily and a 32" without too much difficulty.

135 sounds like it could be a bit light on compression, but numbers are almost worthless because there can be so much variation in testing methods. I'd ask to pull the muffler and inspect the piston for scoring. Some light marks won't hurt much but deeper scratches or gouges indicate damage from running lean.

Hey Rocky he has a Husky 460, I do a lot of missreading too.    Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

tlandrum

a 394 can handle a 36" bar without breaking a sweet. its rated with more hp than a 660
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crd1957

thanks for the info. i removed the muffler piston looks pretty good. im buying the saw. ill order parts monday. ill have around 400.00 invested total. from what i gather on ebay 400.00 is not a bad deal for a 394xp. cutting large stumps with my 460 rancher seems a little rough on the saw. ill use the 460 for a firewood saw  thanks again.
a man should never wear a hat that has more character than he has. (will rogers)

JHBC

Congats,  IMO $200+$200 in parts for that saw is a great deal.  I'd buy it for that price any day.  Have fun with your new beast.
MS460 28"    MS660  36"    MS441 20"/24"    394XP 32"/36"    3120XP 32"/42"

TravisMVL

When I started my company 6 years ago I bought two 10 year old (at that time) 394's from a logger and completly rebuilt them. They lasted a few months and little by little nearly every part went, so I bought a new 395xp, then a second new 395xp a year later. Most of the parts are compatable. It was a great experience because I learned these saws pretty much inside and out.
The price your looking to pay for your 394 sounds very reasonable considering the parts value, but it depends on who it's coming from. It could take more money in parts to get a properly operating saw then a new one could cost. As long as it's running right and the chain is sharpened properly with correctly set rakers it will pull a 36" bar with no problem.
I occasionaly run my two 395's  as a double power head setup on cannon 66" and 96" double ended bars and they work (slow on the 96" but it works!)
Many guys strip out the screws on these saws and destroy them, the most important thing you can do when re-asembling ANYTHING is insert the screw then turn it counter clock wise and imediatley stop when the threads engage, then tighten it by turning clock wise. I would check the threads before buying, if they are messed up you could possibly helicoil them, but it's tedious. My 394 threads wer striped out in many places from the destructive previous owner and I had to run a bungie cord around the saws just to hold the top covers on! Let the insurance guys see that!
I just picked up a 395 xp parts saw a couple months ago for $100.00 (I was able to pick out all the problems), maybe you can do better depending on the saws condition?

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