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E-Classic 2300 Door

Started by darnet, December 28, 2010, 01:35:09 PM

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darnet

I am waiting for my new door to come in. I can not get the stove up to temp. After reading the post here I checked my door for warping and sure enough it is warped about 1/2 inch. I even added a second piece of door seal accross the top of the door to try to get a seal. Not much better. Called my dealer and it will take about 2 week to get one in add put on. Other than that and after the upgrades the unit does well considering it is heating about 5000 sq ft of 157 yr old house and the basement and a 1000 sq ft garage. total of about 7000 sq ft. Hope the door comes in soon and the furnace will stop running.

hockeyguy

darnet,
Hope your repairs are done soon.
I assume the door your replacing is the main door and not the r.c. door?
What year is your boiler and how long did it take before the warping was apparent?
Thanks,
Good luck

darnet

I believe it is a 2008. Yes it is the loading door. I noticed a burn difference about 2 months ago. I checked everything that normally would go wrong and from this sight and another I am on decided to check the door. I called the dealer today and the door is here. They are calling me tomorrow to set a day to put it on.

jason1977

did u have smoke coming out the sides of the door and if not why would it not heat up

darnet

Yes there was smoke coming from the door. About half way down the sides and across the top. When I opened the reaction chamber door it was like a low burn cycle. It does not get a roaring after burn. I think a lot of the injected air is coming out the door instead of getting to the rc and gasifing. I noticed in the last 2 weeks that it is smoking more also. Now the whole front of the unit above the door is black and the light is usless. Does anybody have a good way to clean this?

MudBud

Darnet, was this replaced under warranty?  Are they replacing the whole door or just the inside plate?  I have the inside with about 1/2" warp and can see the insulation.  No problems with stove.

I used Simple Green and a pressure washer.  If your awesome plastic light is not melted like mine was, then it may work as well.  I ordered a new one for $13 and wont keep the door open as long.  Also the other lens under the control panel is the same.  I dont use either as they are useless.  I think they should have made the one over the door with a glass cover.

Keith

firechief

darnet,

yep you may need the pressure washer for that one.  I've used Simple Green before but the one I've found that does a great job is Super Degreaser and Cleaner made by Rubbermaid.
I found mine at my local Menards Store.

Firechief

darnet

Thanks guys I will try those two cleaners and as far as the pressure washer goes that will wait till spring. Yes it covered under warrentee. The dealer called today and said he could install it next fri. I said are you crazy and he laughed. I told I didn't want to wait that long. I asked him if it was a pain to install and he said no it was not bad at all about 1 hour. I told him I would pick it up tomorrow and a friend and I will put it on. The door is covered I would have to pay for labor if the installed it @ 60.00 hr per man and as the door is heavy it would take 2 men 1 hour. So hopefully I will save 120 dollars. Anybody put one on themselves?

stumper

Yes it is a PITA.  I did it working alone.  Not sure how long it took because it was cold out and I took warming breaks. 

I bumped my boiler temp to 195 and burnt my wood out.  As soon as the wood was gone (just coals).  I started to remove the skin.  A cordles electric drill with an adapter and socket worked well for most.  There are two different size sheet metal screws so keep them seperate.  I beileve the longer ones are use when joining 3 thicknesses of sheet metal.  You will likely need to open the door on and off to accomplish the removal.  Once the sheet metal is all removed spray the door closure mechanism with a product like PB Blaster.  I then removed the brackets from the top and bottom of the door.   I put them directly on the new door.  Remove the C clips from the door hinge pins.  Now the fun starts.  I opened the door and placed several milk crates under the door and blocks to support the door, removed each pin and replaced it with a loose fitting punch.  With both pin out remove the puncges and put the door down opening mechanism up.  Spray more PB Blaster on the closure nuts.  Break the nuts free.  One is easy the other not so much ;D.  I had to stand on the handle and wack the wrench with a hammer.  Once the old door is disassembled.  Squeeze the hinge peices on the boiler with a set of channel locks just a touch.  Put the new door on.  Again I placed it on the mick crates and blocking slid in the punches and then removed one punch at a time to put the pins in.  If door does not slide into place you probably squeezed the hinges to much.  Slide the C clips back on.  If they do not fit you did not squeeze enough.  Loosen the door closure adjustments on the boiler and slide them all the way out.  Re-assemble the door closure.  This takes a bit of fussing to get every thing correct.  Once this is done you are home free.  Simply replace the door skin and adjust the door closure on the boiler till the door seals.  I had to re-adjust the door closure after a couple days to a week after the door seal got broken in.

Take your time and good luck.

darnet

They sent me a inner door replacement kit. There are two different types of doors, Ones with carrage bolts through the face of the door and all the way through the inner door, and mine that has the 4 bolts that just hold the outer sheet metal on. I did not have to take the door off, just remove the inner pannel top and bottom to get at some bolts. The old door had metal then a fiber board of some sort and then some refactory material then another sheet of metal then insulation. The new inner door the 3 layers are one piece. The whole job only took less than a hour and you can do it yourself no problem. The problem is not only was my inner door warped but the middle part of the door is also warped so all this work did no good. No matter how I adjusted the door I couldn't get the door to seal good at the upper right corner. Called the dealer and they gave me the # to cb and asked me to call them to discribe to them what happened. I talked to Bob and he asked me to call back on monday so I could talk to a different person that knows more. So we will see what they will do then.
  Scott

JJ

Yes, I just replace door.
I find several of the self tapping 1/4" screws snapped off at head.  You pretty much have to take all of them (the 1/4" screws) off.
otherwise it just took some time.   did not have any trouble with hinge pins, and did not have to adjust, but door is very tight.  waiting for it to break in the seal, as don't want to take it all apart again.  Like stumper found, the door latch jamb bolts were very tight, and I use 2x4 through the door handle to get enough leverage to break loose.

once I get the old door off, it is much more warped than I thought.  right and left sides, and the bottom are bowed out about 1/2"

New door has extra plate of 1/4" heat shielding, loosely hanging from key-hole bolts in the door.

    JJ

JJ

I will say that I was not very happy to replace the door in the 3rd season with this stove.
This was way more work than fusion chamber the year before and the field modification this summer. 

To think I paid $10K for DIY warranty repairs.

            JJ

darnet

I would have to agree with you but I kind of expected it being a new product. I will say the dealer and the guys at cb have been very helpful. Cb is now sending me a complete door except for the outside sheet metal. Should be here thru or fri. Will let you guys know how it goes.

darnet

clean up new door came in thrusday and I installed it today. Everything went very easy. Had it done in about 45 min. It fits alot better. I started up a fire in it at noon and when I checked on it at 6 it was at 170. I will see if it gets to the 185 mark before bed time. Hopefully this will take care of the problem. Now have to clean up the front and see if the light lens will shine again.

darnet

I don't know what happened to the last post but you will get the jist of it.

Logging logginglogging

Mabye Ill just buy the whole new door then instead of thye "Upgrade" kit.

Logging logginglogging

Quote from: darnet on January 07, 2011, 08:11:31 PM
I don't know what happened to the last post but you will get the jist of it.

When you had a bad door, did you notice more black goo creasote buildup than usual?

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