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Best Chain / Best place to purchase

Started by Kirk_Allen, November 25, 2003, 03:53:43 PM

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Kirk_Allen

I managed to munch  >:( >:( three of my chains last week while cutting logs out of several large bulldozed piles.  They were filled with dirt and rocks and they got the best of my chains.

I would like to have 3 chains for each of my saws.

372 / 28" - 365 / 22" - 359 / 18"

What is the best brand of chain and where is the best place to purchase them?

I have been getting my chains from our local Husky dealer but this last visit I noticed he was in the back counting links from a large roll.  

Can I buy a roll of chain and make them my self?  If so, any input would be appreciated.

Thanks
Kirk

Viking

I'd say Oregon chains, they can take a beating :) and once you sharpen them they are just like new. I dont know any stores in the u.s. so i cant help you out. I always get mine at canadian tire.

jokers

Hi Kirk
There are many good brands of chain, for instance Oregon, Carlton, Windsor(actually owned by Oregon now), Sabre(NOS), and of course Stihl. The Stihl chain seems to have slightly thicker chrome resulting in somewhat better staysharp, but unless you have an exceptional place to buy it, it`s way overpriced. BTW, you can also forget about it if you run .058 gauge, Stihl no longer makes it. Oregon is as good as any of the other brands and vice a versa, and it is available cheap. Well actually I think the old Sabre may have been slightly better, if you can find it.

Spinning your own loops can be cheaper but most of the mail order shops make it a close call.

A couple of good places to buy chain are from Jeff Sikkema or Commercial Cutters Direct. Either place can set you up with whatever you may need for chain and tools.

//www.snssawshop.com Jeff Sikkema

//www.commercialcutters.com CCD

Russ

Mark M

I ordered some from Bailey's today. They were around $11.50 for 20" 3/8 pitch Oregon.

Mark

woodmills1

I might be off the mark here, but I buy most of my chainsaw related stuff from the one guy around here who runs the saw fixit shop.  I like him and his worker and when I bought my 066 he was only 20 bucks higher than internet prices.  He gives me free promotional stuff and sends a customer or two my way, plus when I can't fix it he is still in business.  I bet ifin i wasa gonna make my own chains up he would sell me a roll at near cost ifin I bought the tools from him also. :P
James Mills,Lovely wife,collect old tools,vacuuming fool,36 bdft/hr,oak paper cutter,ebonic yooper rapper nauga seller, Blue Ox? its not fast, 2 cat family, LT70,edger, 375 bd ft/hr, we like Bob,free heat,no oil 12 years,big splitter, baked stuffed lobster, still cuttin the logs dere IAM

Mark M

I like to support the local businesses too whenever I can, in fact I bought 3 Stihl saws this past year from one of the local dealers. But it's hard to justify paying $27 for a chain when I can get it for $12 on the internet. In cases like that I feel like I'm getting ripped off.

Mark

jokers

Whether or not to blindly buy everything from a local dealer is a topic as controversial and emotional as abortion or religion. I don`t feel like going there today.

Bailey`s have good chain prices as does CCD, Jeff S. and Madsen`s to name a few.

CCD, which is my local dealer, sells 20"x3/8 loops of Oregon for $9.95 or $8.95 if you buy a case of 30.

I`ll post a link.

Russ

//www.commercialcutters.com  Commercial Cutters Direct

Stan

Am I reading this right? Cheapest = best?  ::)
I may have been born on a turnip truck, but I didn't just fall off.

Oregon_Rob

Stan,
I think what is being said is that there are no clear stand outs. If you are talking about all the typical commerical grade chains, yes: cheapest is best. nothing else really sets them apart.
Chainsaw Nerd

Minnesota_boy

If I can buy the equivalent quality chain for $10 or $20, then cheapest is best.  Otherwise, I have to make difficult choices involving time, dollars, and distance.  If I live next door to the saw shop, the equation changes as opposed to 20 or 50 miles away.  If my time has no particular value, that is different from paying big dollars per hour for someone to work for me with inferior materials with random results.  Complex equation with no "right answer".  :)
I eat a high-fiber diet.  Lots of sawdust!

rebocardo

I would like to point out that stuff really cheap on the Internet, like 1/2 of normal price, could turn out to be cheap counterfeit stuff. It happens all the time with footwear and automotive parts, it even finds its way to local stores and local dealers.

Viking

QuoteAm I reading this right? Cheapest = best?  ::)

only to some people i guess.

fencerowphil (Phil L.)

Hey, Kirk!

The other day I was cutting loose some big Swamp White Oaks at a construction site.  I noticed a local landscape company's guy gnawing on some firewood-sized beech.  He had a Stihl 066 with a 20-22" bar and just wasn't getting anywhere.  :'(

When I mosied over, I saw the dullest chain ever !   Now, the chain had plenty of tooth left  -  just dull.   The tooth angle was wrong and the top edge on each of the full chisel teeth  was rounded over pitifully.   The depth gauges (rakers) had not been refiled either. He muttered that he needed a new chain.   >:(

When I replied that all he needed was a good sharpening, he just gave me a blank,  "What is he talkin' 'bout" look.  Two days later I saw him back - sure enough -  with a new chain.

My point?   He didn't realize that he could have gotten two or three times the wear out of that first chain.   I was amazed.  I have used chains until only 1/8" was left of the tooth.  A day or two in the rocks, sand ,  and gravel need not be the end of a chain.   I just retired a Stihl  ripping chain which had cut at least 60 nails, screws and fence wire segments !  It is a full complement 124 drive link chain.  Sometimes I refiled with a clamp-on guide right on the bar and sometimes I had to first grind (freehand with a dremel 1" wheel) back beyond the chrome damage, then file.  Always, the chain stayed on the bar! :P
Phil L.
P.S.   I just bought a 100' roll of Stihl 46RS .404/.063 for $240.00.   Was that a good deal anyone? ;)
Bi-VacAtional:  Piano tuner and sawyer.  (Use one to take a vacation from the other.) Have two Stihl 090s, one Stihl 075, Echo CS8000, Echo 346,  two Homely-ite 27AVs, Peterson 10" Swingblade Winch Production Frame, 36" and 54"Alaskan mills, and a sore back.

jokers

Viking
What`s your point? Are you for or against getting the best price you can on identical items?

rebocardo
I`ll guarantee that any chain I buy from Jeff S., CCD, Bailey`s or Madsen`s is the genuine article. There are other places on the net that I am not so sure of, but then I don`t buy there. BTW, every one of the places that I trust is also a "bricks and mortar" establishment that also offers their best prices to all walk in customers. What excuse do the guys who charge $20 for a 20" loop or $5-$6 for a rim sprocket have? None that I can see.

Russ

jokers

Phil L.
You know that`s a good price for a 100' roll of Stihl chain, does that dealer sell 3/8 pitch for the same price? .404/.063 is a fairly odd duck and .404 is starting to sell cheap around here, if you can find it.

Russ

fencerowphil (Phil L.)

Hey Joker,
The only reason I got the deal on the 404 is that the Stihl dealer had previously used this on harvester bars.   Now all local companies are using 3/4" pitch (or bigger).  He had been stuck with this roll for literally years.  He had offered it to me over a year ago for $275, and I passed.  Lucky me. 8)

I used about 17' of the roll to grind some ripping chains.  That saved me quite a bit of dollars, but if I were in this professionally,  I don't think that would pay off.   That took some time!  Made one like Malloff's in the book, Chainsaw Lumber Making (all cutters at 0deg.) and one with a pair of 0deg, then a pair of scorers.   This second style takes mucho time, because of the grinding off of the top plates on the scoring teeth. :-[

Of course,  If I were "in it professionally",  I wouldn't be a chainsaw miller, now would I?  Just making loops is another story:  In that case,  I get a 124 drive link top quality chain for $22.00. :)
Phil L.
Bi-VacAtional:  Piano tuner and sawyer.  (Use one to take a vacation from the other.) Have two Stihl 090s, one Stihl 075, Echo CS8000, Echo 346,  two Homely-ite 27AVs, Peterson 10" Swingblade Winch Production Frame, 36" and 54"Alaskan mills, and a sore back.

Kirk_Allen

Phil,
I appreciate the input.  You can rest assured, these chains are toast!

They have been through the ringer and over 13 of the teeth have nothing left to file on a couple of them.

I too tend to file them until the last bit of chain is left.  

Thanks everyone for all the great input.

Happy Turkey day!

Kirk

jokers

Phil

I`d really appreciate knowing how those chains work for you. Have you ground them to Will`s spec before? I`ve got that same book but haven`t tried any milling yet. What a great book, I can see why it sometimes brings over $100 a copy.

Russ

Stan

Ok, lowest price for the same product is best. But best chain ain't necessesarily the cheapest, right?
I may have been born on a turnip truck, but I didn't just fall off.

jokers

Stan
Hope you don`t mind if I play "Consumer Report" with you. What I mean is that all of the brands which don`t stay sharp as long as one other brand are significantly cheaper on average, so which chain is actually best. What I`m saying is that everyone has to decide for themselves what is best.

BTW, the chain with thicker chrome that costs so much more dulls just as quickly as the others when it hits dirt or rock, in clean wood, staysharp is not normally a problem if it was sharpened right to start with.

Russ

fencerowphil (Phil L.)

Hey Russ!

I cut some 2x8 Post Oak with the Zero degree with scorers, but did not get to try the all Zero (no scorers).   The scorers really did help with speed of cut and I think they helped with the few nails I hit.  (Ouch, with a brand new chain!) :(

The reason I did not try the Will Malloff (All Zero) was that I need a new sprocket.   The drive links on the chain I did try were bottoming out on the sprocket, so I only cut about 160 bd. ft. and stopped.   Even that amount of cutting was probably too much, but I was antsy to try it.  I will be swapping back to my worn out chain, until I get a rim sprocket setup.  

Will let you know how the Post goes next time with a ...,
      er,  post.   ;)

Phil L.
Bi-VacAtional:  Piano tuner and sawyer.  (Use one to take a vacation from the other.) Have two Stihl 090s, one Stihl 075, Echo CS8000, Echo 346,  two Homely-ite 27AVs, Peterson 10" Swingblade Winch Production Frame, 36" and 54"Alaskan mills, and a sore back.

dutch

FWIW I ordered a new bar and chain from http://www:cutterschoice.com, I have no experience with the company, but it was recommended by a friend who cuts a lot of firewood. Anybody else try them?

Kevin


fencerowphil (Phil L.)

Madsen's "two for one"  deal looks good.  Buy one loop at retail and second one free.  From what I have seen, they are also the best source for accessories for old large saws.

Grinding ripping Chain?  Also, See Bailey's cat.# CA25 which is a special deal on 25' of Carlton .325/.063ga., which might be grindable for ripping.  $40.  Will be trying a piece next week to see.  For me, that will be $16 per loop for a 42" bar!

Cutters Choice on-line menus are the best I have seen.  You can actually find stuff!
Phil L.
Bi-VacAtional:  Piano tuner and sawyer.  (Use one to take a vacation from the other.) Have two Stihl 090s, one Stihl 075, Echo CS8000, Echo 346,  two Homely-ite 27AVs, Peterson 10" Swingblade Winch Production Frame, 36" and 54"Alaskan mills, and a sore back.

Oregon_Rob

Phil,
That does sound like a great price for a 42" loop of any chain.
Are you spinning your own loops?
I am looking forward to your report on the test cuttings. If it works for you, I may have to give it a try on my 2100.
Chainsaw Nerd

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