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Tree Felling Lever VS Cant hook

Started by tbrickner, December 02, 2010, 09:18:48 PM

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tbrickner

Hi all,

I am looking for a device to use to lift logs up a bit when bucking wood.  I am tired of having a tree fall where I can't roll it and have to get the saw near the dirt to sever the log.

I was looking at a Sandvik treee felling lever with cant hook or a LogRite can't hook.  If anyone has had any luck with these let me know. 

I typically use wedges when felling back leaning trees so I probably wouldn't use the felling lever for that. I can' see much use for the felling lever other than it may be useful to get under a log for prying but I like the fact that it has the can't hook on it also.  Seems like a bit of a multipurpose device over a cant hook alone.  However, with the cant hook you can get more leverage with the longer pole. 

Any thoughts would be helpflull.

Thanks,
Tom

mikerat

I needed a couple of canthooks to turn logs/cants on my mill and got them from logrite. There great, while on their site I saw the adapter to clamp onto the canthook or peavey to lift your log off the ground to keep your blade sharp. So I ordered the adaptor and a peavey so I could firgure out what the difference was between the canthook and peavey. The cant doesn't scar my cant to bad with the flat blunt end and the peavey with it's sharp end sticks into the ground so I can find it easy. So thats alot more than you wanted to know, the log lifter works great and I keep mu chain out of the dirt.
WM LT28 logrite 30,48,60 canthook, huskys and stihls, Logrite Buck Arch I have met the best people on this site!

tbrickner

Mikerat,

Does the universal log stand have enough meat on it to work well lifting say 8 ft long x 20" diameter logs for bucking?

Like you I am looking for something to keep the blade off the ground.

Tom

beenthere

For me, it wouldn't be a tree felling lever. Too easy to just carry a couple plastic wedges than to drag that lever around from tree to tree. I also wouldn't drag a log lifter around from tree to tree. But that is prolly just me being lazy.

As for bucking, usually there is a place along a log to buck it that the chain will not get in the dirt. Again, a wedge will help keep the cut open so the chain and bar don't get caught.
For other bucking cuts (once the log is free from the top), then using a logrite cant hook to roll the log after cutting part way through will also keep the saw chain out of the dirt.

Some of this would depend on how much bucking you are doing where the tree drops, or if at a landing.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

tlandrum

whats wrong with just rolling the log over after you have made several cuts in firewood length pieces and finishing the cut . thats what i used to do when i was a kid. now i pick it up with the knuckleboom and cut my firewood lenghts.
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barbender

I have one of those tree felling levers, I find it to be a failrly useless tool for my purposes. I use it around the mill some for a short cant hook. When falling wood, it is too small to get enough leverage to twist hung trees, etc. Maybe I need schooled in its proper use, but wedges seem far more useful to me. I think they are made for scandinavians hand thinning 5" diameter spruce, there is no way you are going to lever over a bigger tree with one of those. I also had one of those timberjacks once, as they called the cant hook with the "kickstand" for lifting logs off of the ground, I didn't really find that all that useful either, I took off the kickstand and just use it for a cant hook now. I would just get a cant hook.
Too many irons in the fire

SwampDonkey

I have been told those levers are for small wood, not 20" tree buts. We used to sell a few around here at the marketing board as many home owner types and semi retired gentlemen were using them in second growth smaller wood up to 12" buts doing some long term thinning projects. In most cases the thinning project ended up incomplete and the lever stood in the tool shed. ;) It's a northern Europe tool and most fellers around these parts learned to cut wood with their fathers and such and most likely never even used a wedge. The thing was introduced here during falling courses and full time loggers never did attend those courses very often. That's just the way it is around here. Maybe it's different elsewhere. ;)

What a fellow could do, is maybe cut a nearby suppressed top pole tree and lay it across the path of the pending log tree. All that extra work to make a buck, eh? ;) :D
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

thecfarm

I myself prefer the peavey,the one with the point on the end. You did not say how you are getting the wood out of the woods either. I have have moved the log with the loader to get at it better too. I also will shove some of the limb wood under the log to help hold it off the ground too. It all works no matter how you do it.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

John Mc

The only time I've seen a felling lever used was in a demonstration during a Game Of Logging course. Even then, he pulled it out once, then never used it for the rest of the day. Not enough leverage to be of any use felling larger trees. Also too short to be of much use rolling them once they are on the ground (unless you're working in a lot better conditions than I am).

I have a Timber Jack (Cant Hook with a log stand) with a 3 foot handle. I definitely would not go any shorter for my firewood work.

I'm glad to see you are looking at good quality tools (Sandvik and LogRite). Do NOT buy the northern toolhttps://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=position"> Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company Timber Jack with the 3 foot wooden handle. I received one of these as a gift. The hook does not grip well. Sharpening with a grinder helped, but not much. The hook tip seems to be set at a bad angle. After one season of light use, it sat in my barn for a couple of years. I brought it out to roll a couple of 8 or 9" hemlock logs, and the tip of the hook snapped right off. It had been welded on, and the weld broke. Numerous attempts to submit a negative review were rejected by NT... even after toning my review down substantially, they still have not posted it. It makes me wonder how many other reviews they are censoring. Just one of the many reasons I'm glad to see this forum software automatically inserts those extra words after the name northern toolhttps://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=position"> Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company.

John Mc
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Al_Smith

You can roll a pretty good sized log with  a cant hook or a peavey .I've got a cant hook that must have been made the first half of the last century .We broke the handle maybe 30 years ago and with a wire job it lasted until last year ,then I made another handle from shag bark hickory .That should last another 60 years I suppose .

Even with say 60 foot of log on the ground to buck into firewood at some place you'll be able to cut it to be able to roll the  shorter pieces .

Now as for using that gizmo as an aid in felling ,a wedge or three does just as good or better so why bother dragging that contraption all over the place to trip over ---but to each his own . ;D

IndyIan

I used my lever quite a bit for falling White Cedar.  Often you're falling against the lean and the upper branches are intertwined with other trees, so the lever lets you bounce the tree to get it to go, or if it gets hung up half way down you have it as a short peavey to roll the tree out.
I have used it as well to pitch over big hardwoods after my wedges were sunk all the way in.  I have to learn how to stack wedges...
In smallish conifers it is the right tool though, saves you carrying something to pound wedges and a peavey to roll hangers...

Rocky_J

If you have a real long log with no good place to cut all the way through without hitting the dirt, you can cut 3/4 of the way through and pound a wedge in the cut to lift the log up. Wedges are awesome when cutting up downed trees, especially when there lots of forks and bind forces in several different directions.

bill m

I bought a Sandvik felling lever about 20 years ago and just recently bought a Logrite peavey. The felling lever works great for felling smaller pole wood and I do use the cant hook to roll out smaller trees if they get hung up.
It sounds like you need one of the Logrite peaveys
NH tc55da Metavic 4x4 trailer Stihl and Husky saws

beenthere

Quote from: IndyIan on December 03, 2010, 02:38:11 PM
....... saves you carrying something to pound wedges ...........

For pounding wedges, which is sometimes necessary, I cut a club from either a nearby small tree or from the tops of a tree just cut down. With a little careful saw-cut placement, a limb can be the handle and the head can be the larger stem sporting the limb. Cheap and just leave it lay in the woods. :)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

barbender

My problem is I always forget to cut my club for my wedges until after I get my saw pinched ::)
Too many irons in the fire

IndyIan

Quote from: barbender on December 03, 2010, 11:39:17 PM
My problem is I always forget to cut my club for my wedges until after I get my saw pinched ::)
Hmmm... That's never happened to me ::)
Normally if I'm out with the ATV, I've got an axe, wedges, peavey, felling lever, an extra bar and chain, all in the box on the front...  And some days I need them all...   :D

Al_Smith

 :D Well anyone who says they never pinched a saw is either handling the truth carelessly or never ran a saw much .

John Mc

Al, I don't think IndyIan meanthe had never pinched a saw. I believe he was referring to being caught without an ax or club, since he's always traveling with the box of tools on his ATV.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

SwampDonkey

Al was just returning fire (poking fun) as IndyIan was. ;)
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

Al_Smith

 :D Actually although that was aimed at a praticular know it all it wasn't directed at anyone in praticular .Least wise not active on this site at this praticular time .Just more or less a general statement .

Oh yes besides pinching a saw,missing with a fall,putting a chain on backwards ,dumping oil in the gas tank .Do it long enough and eventually when you least expect it ,it'll get ya. You'll all do at least once . In my case I'm a slow learner . ;)

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