ICF's

[clif]

I was wondering if any one has used "Ecoblock" forms and how did they work?  Also for timber-frame, did you build columns into the wall that were bigger than the wall thickness and how did you do it?  What I am thinking of doing is using the 6" wall with 12" columns as an integral part of the wall with the outside perimeter being flush, for the post supports.  "One picture worth a thousand words"  when am I going to have time to learn a drawing program?  Clif

[Raider Bill]

I built my house using AMVIC blocks. Not a timber frame though.
6" blocks sound pretty thin to me. Mine were 12"
What's the void size in a 6 inch block?

[Thehardway]

Cliff,

I have built much like you are proposing.  My walls are 6" Reward ICF (6" of concrete, 2.5" EPS on either side, 11" overall wall).  I simply built beam pockets into the wall and placed my timberframed trusses/rafters into the pockets. Here is a picture of us setting the truss.



1" Threaded rod dowels were extended up out of the concrete and nuts with washers and steel plates installed on them. This allowed me to level the foot of the truss on each side with a fair degree of accuracy. Then the space between the steel plate and the wall was grouted in with non-shrinking grout and washer and nut placed on top of the rafter foot. This controls any uplift anchoring the system to the wall.  I put two vertical #4 bars under each bearing point on the wall and also extra horizontal steel when building the forms. My walls are 10'6" high overall.  If I had to do it over again I might opt for a brickledge block course and use a principle/ common rafter setup rather than principle rafter/purlin system.

Masonry walls with a timberframed roof construction is one of the oldest forms of timberframing going back to medieval times.  It is tried and true.  I will try and upload some pictures for you to see.  Unless you are going up several stories or are placing posts which would create a hinge effect on the pilasters there is probably no need for a 12" pilaster. 

If you look through my gallery you will see a lot of pictures of the process.  Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.  I would be happy to share my experiences with you.

[witterbound]

I used Arxx blocks for 2 walls on my ground floor (which is not timber frame).  I didn't build columns.  For the posts that sit right off the outer wall (because of the stick frame wall I built around my frame), I just blocked them onto the arxx blocks.  In other words, I put a bunch of 2x8's on top of the blocks, right under the posts.  The posts actually hit on only part of the blocking, but I decided that was enough.

[clif]

Little more info:  They are a 6"core making them 11" overall 16" height, they are similar to "Quadlock"  ( two pieces with a plastic spreader jobsite installed) , but they have an L shaped 2-piece corner.  I just poured the footer yesterday.  The plan so far is : 4' crawl space, 4" treated sill plate, 10" x 10' posts.  It is a 18'x 28' livingroom/artic entry addition 60# snow load.  The footer is 16" with enlarged 24" pads at the two outside corners and midway down the 18' walls.  So we are talking two 28' bents. I plan on using the Larson sp? Truss for walls, however it seems to me that they (LT)  should sit on the sill an 1" or so so fastening to the frame is not quite as critical. I guess the real question is: does a 10" post need full support  all the way to the footer.  Common sense tells me it does, but ???  Oh, I put four #5 rebar sticking up out of the footer where the posts rest. Probably overkill, but I had it lying around.

[frwinks]

so you already have the ICF blocks? 
If not see if CIC method can be used instead
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZ_46jMGl7I

[Raider Bill]

I've not heard good things about the quadlock.

Have you looked at green building talk to see what they have to say about them?

[DouginUtah]

I built my shop and house using Logix ICFs. (www.logixicf.com)

There is a dealer for Logix just a few miles from you.

[Thehardway]

Things to consider with ICF's

Transportation.  If you can source ICF's locally it saves a lot as they are bulky to transport and easily damaged.
Are they reversible/invertable?  If so it can eliminate a lot of waste.
Depth of foam.  The deeper the better.  Plumbing, electrical and everythings else is a lot easier to do in 2.5" of foam than 2" or less.
Spacing of webs and material the are made of.  Lots of pros and cons and opinions, be aware of the differences and pick the one that suits your application
Assembled vs. build your own corners.  Assembled saves a lot of time and headache
Support.  Having a local dealer to rent you bracing for the pour and give advice and accessories is worth a good bit especially if it is your first ICF pour.

Don't over vibrate.

glue each course IMHO its worth the time and effort

don't get talked into stick built gables with batt insulation