What size to cut

[Qweaver]

After building a house and seven sheds I've decided that I like my framing lumber to be cut full size at 1.625" x 4 or 6 or 8, etc.  I also cut siding at 1" which gives me slightly less than .875" including the saw kerf and drying.
But what do I cut when a customer wants 2x4, 2x6, etc.  Often when I ask them whether they want actual size or the size they would get from the box store...they just don't know.  Full 2"wide boards are over kill in most cases and also harder to nail properly. 
If they are adding on to an existing structure then using full size lumber can be a problem.  I've had several customers recently that really could not decide what they wanted and ended up saying "just cut it how you usually do".  I hate that!  If they are building a shed, no problem, but if it's going to be a finished house then it can be.  It's easy if the customer tells me exactly what they want it's OK...but often they don't.  I cut at 1.625 by .125 over ( 3.635", 5.625", etc.)on the long side if they want dimensional lumber.  How do you do it?

[northwoods1]

I just ask the customer what there intended use is and suggest to them what size to cut. Also explain about what kind of shrinkage they might expect and allowance for planing if that is what they need. If they know exactly what they want it can make things easier. Your size for framing lumber sounds about right to me.

[paul case]

i try to cut the rough size of framing lumber same as box store lumber. what if they didnt get enough out of their logs to finish a project? it is good to be able to go pick up what extra they may need at the box store and get finished with lumber that matches the rough sawn.
as far as my own projects my 2x4's probably will be 3 3/8x1 3/8 . just because its easy. pc

[isawlogs]

 I usualy cut all to nominal size and tell them that they really should get there lumber planed if they are building a house , it just makes life easier to finish. No matter how good a sawyer you can be , there will be a board or three that just aint the same thickness, width or a wave/dip... It happens it is what it is ... a mill. This is why someone came up with a planer  ;)

[Larry]

Stock windows and doors won't fit full size lumber without adjustments.

[Chuck White]

I've only had a couple of customers that asked for anything other than full size, ie: 2x4, 2x6, etc.

For 2x4's/6's, they wanted 6/4.  They said that by using 6/4, they can use 16 penny nails.

Makes sense to me.  If you drive a 16 nail through a full 2x4, there's only about 1/4 inch sticking out the other side.

[bugdust]

I try not to change a customers mind if he already knows what he wants, but I won't hesitate to suggest that a full dimensional 2" X 8" is stronger than the same in a nominal size. It seems most customer like the idea of full dimension. I've even had a couple ask for over dimension so they can plan to full size. Since that hasn't happen to often I just charge to the nearest full size. As for my preference, the bigger the better.

[Magicman]

In almost 9 years of sawing, I have sawed full sized 2X4's and 2X6's, etc.  for only one customer.   He told me later, "never again".    He was building a barn and had to buy spikes to nail it together.   Air nailer was no good.   I think he spent most of his time nailin'-n-cussin'.   :-\

[snowshoveler]

I built a shed for myself this summer and cut everything full dimension 2x4,2x6 2x8 and so on.
I used galvanized nails and i can tell you that a 70 dollar box of nails(50lbs) dosent go very far with this sized lumber.
Next building (later this fall for my 4 sided planer) will try coated screws,seems lot of contracters here are useing them.
Chris

[redbeard]

 I use Full dimension lumber for visual effect most of the fastening is done with Timberlok screws  or joinery I wouldnt want to nail 6" galv. spikes all day rather use a cordless driver much easier but they do cost alot more than nails.

[Okrafarmer]

My dad framed the main floor of the house he built with rough cut full size 2x4's. Since he did the entire level out of it, there were no compatibility issues. When he did the upstairs a few years later, he used planed 2x4's.

[isawlogs]

I have a pasload air gun and used to get the four inche nails for it .. are they obsolete now ???

[barbender]

I sawed a bunch of 2x6 I intended to use for my house. I sawed them at 1 3/4"x5 3/4" so I could plane them. I ended up buying finished lumber, because at the time the price was so low for finished 2x6  I couldn't justify the price to plane mine.At any rate, a friend with a logosol planer told me he doesn't like them any more than 1/4" over finished size, with his smaller planer he has to take it down in 2 passes if it is more than 1/4" over.

[okie]

I've only had a couple of customers that asked for anything other than full size, ie: 2x4, 2x6, etc.

For 2x4's/6's, they wanted 6/4.  They said that by using 6/4, they can use 16 penny nails.

Makes sense to me.  If you drive a 16 nail through a full 2x4, there's only about 1/4 inch sticking out the other side.

??? Your 2x4's are thicker than mine. 16 penny common is 3 1/2" long.  
Drive that through a full 2" and you have 1 1/2" sticking out. I think 16 penny sinker and box are shorter, definitely smaller dia. Nail gun nails may be too, I don't know, but 16 penny common are fine for full 2" lumber, at least my chicken house thinks so  ;)

[jcoleman]

Good point about nail guns - most guns can only take a 3 1/4" nail or 12d nail (16d "short"), never mind it's not always easy to get a real 16d ( 3 1/2") for a nail gun, if the nailer can take it. Ask the customer how he plans to nail things together. Before having a mill I bought some 2" material for repairs and the nail gun didn't make it, even with some 16d nails in it; ended up doing a bunch of hand nailing with 20d nails to hold good.

Other than that, if I have dead dry spruce to saw, I saw it to "standard" planed sizes, since I don't worry about shrinkage; otherwise it's 1- 5/8" x whatever plus the 1/8" and it usually shrinks to standard size (close) fairly quickly; keeping in mind I live in a fairly dry climate (SW Colorado). Measure some store bought sometime - it isn't perfect by any means.

[sigidi]

Down here in Aus most our house frame stuff is now softwood and it is sized at 70x35mm, so that starts life as a full 3x1.5" and then gets dressed back. Most the nail guns use a 75mm (3") long nail which is 3.05mm thick dunno how that converts back to your numbers, but they are easy enough to get and the gun sends them through really easy.

[customsawyer]

I have done a lot of work on my house with the full size lumber and was able to get 3 1/2" ring shank nails that fit my paslode nail gun worked like a dream.
MagicMan when you cut for your customer a store bought size 2X4 do you charge for 1 1/2 X 3 1/2 or do you charge for a 2X4?

[Chuck White]

I've only had a couple of customers that asked for anything other than full size, ie: 2x4, 2x6, etc.

For 2x4's/6's, they wanted 6/4.  They said that by using 6/4, they can use 16 penny nails.

Makes sense to me.  If you drive a 16 nail through a full 2x4, there's only about 1/4 inch sticking out the other side.

??? Your 2x4's are thicker than mine. 16 penny common is 3 1/2" long.  
Drive that through a full 2" and you have 1 1/2" sticking out. I think 16 penny sinker and box are shorter, definitely smaller dia. Nail gun nails may be too, I don't know, but 16 penny common are fine for full 2" lumber, at least my chicken house thinks so  ;)

My mistake,  :-[ that customer was intending on using a nail gun and I just assumed that nail guns used #16 nails!

[paul case]

custom,
when i saw a 1.5''x3.5'' the customer is usually the first to call it a 2x4 and so that is what i charge for ,a 2x4.   i call it what it is a nominal size(same as the lumberyard) 2x4.   .66bdft per linear foot. pc

[Captain]

I'm impressed by anybody that can cut to the nearest thousandth of an inch.  I'm usually quite happy if I'm within a 1/16th.

Captain

[paul case]

.5 was easier than 1/2 to type!!!! pc