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trailer log posts

Started by ahlkey, September 25, 2010, 08:21:31 PM

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ahlkey

Just picked up yesterday at an auction a 30ft gooseneck flatbed trailer (22K GVWR).   It primarily will be used to haul my tractor, Metavic log loader/trailer and other equipment.  However, would also like to use it at times to carry a small load of sawlogs or even pulpwood.   Anyone use their flatbed trailers in a similar way?  I am considering using 3" channel iron as log posts and weld some shims and then bolt them in the bottom.


Bobus2003

I have used my 32' GN for hauling logs.. I use 3" Channel Iron  and i welted 1/4" Angle Iron under my stake pockets so the "Bunks" Wouldn't fall out the bottom, and i can still use the pockets to hook my chains too. I also have a 18' Homebuilt log trailer that uses 3" Square tubing at each corner for Stakes

Gary_C

I have done that many years ago. Just putting channel in stake pockets is not a good idea for two reasons. First you probably will bend the side of the trailer and/or the channel. Second reason is you need to get those logs up off the deck at least 3 and even better 4 inches so the log grapple they use to unload at the mill can pick those logs up without destroying your trailer deck.

Here is an old picture of the bunks I used on my old 24 ft. GN trailer. I had two sets and you can see the angle iron along the side of the deck that held a pair together at the spacing I wanted. They were somewhat a pain because even though I could take them off the trailer, they were bulky and you could not carry them along if you were hauling some equipment.





Here is a picture of the type I use on my semi flatbed. They fit into stake pockets and I have four pairs on that 45 foot flatbed. The cross pieces are 4in sq tubing and the uprights are 3x4 tubing and both sizes are 3/16 or 1/4 wall tubing so they are pretty heavy. Even then they will get bent. The stakes were made 6 ft high with 2 ft extensions.





Hope this helps.

Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.

ahlkey

This does help.   I was planning on using some strong 4 X 6 Hickory beams (have a lot of them and they are a hard as nails) as cross members to keep the logs off the deck.  I certainly would not want to risk bending the trailer in anyway so have the tubing sitting on the deck appears more practical to me.   How did you place the 3 X 4 tubing into the 3.5 X 1.5 stake pocket?  Did you make a special connector sleeve?  Hard to tell from the picture.

Gary_C

I had those stakes made at a trailer shop in Duluth and it's kind of a standard design used on many flatbed trailers that want to remove the stakes. They actually use 3x1.5 tubing and cut away the deck tubing and weld in the tubing that fits in the stake pocket. They also lay 1/4 inch plate on two sides of the stakes to make it 3 1/2 x1 1/2. That also refreshes my memory and I gave you the wrong sizes for that tubing. The cross (deck) tube is 4 x 3 and the uprights are 3 x 3.

Those bunks are actually sitting on plates that sit on the exposed main rails of the trailer. If you look close at the picture, you can just make out the near side plate and the gusset angle that braces the plate. There is another style that does not use stakes and just uses long anchor bolts right thru the deck so the bunks sit only on the main trailer I beams and are clamped down to the main beam. On those bunks on the GN, they sit on the outside rails of the trailer

One of the most important things in that picture is the angle brace between the uprights and the deck tube. Without that those stakes will bend quite easily. And believe me, those stake pockets will not take much outward force from a tall stake. That's why your upright has to be braced to the deck beam.
Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.

Meadows Miller

Gday

The best bolsters I have used and still use today where made by my Dad and Uncles about 30 years ago I have two pairs with 6x4 heavy wall base with 18" high 4x4 tube with four approx 1/4 to 1/3rd thick plate brackets that measure 16" long and 16" high with a curve cut into them  the pins are telescopic tube that slides into them they are heavy but I had to only weld up afew 1 to 2" long cracks in the welds and that is after they had carted about 150000 odd ton of logs over the years  ;)

I just chain n dog these ones down  to any trailer with a raised combing rail  ;)

Remember its better to over build things like bolsters as i have seen the aftermath of a truck having one crack and letting the load of the side its not pretty and its a pita to go anywhere usually the cops would come and give you a bloody fine for insecure load   ;)

Regards Chris
4TH Generation Timbergetter

Ironwood

I haul only one to two layers on my trailer, so I don't need to be crazy HD but that said, I do like things like the verts heavy. You cam brace back under the deck at the standard trailer pocket, so as to not buckle the pocket. A lot depends on how high and heavy you going to load.  Ironwood
There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

ahlkey

I decided to go a little smaller given I would like to use the bunks now on my other trailers and the load will not be that huge. I went with a 3 X 1.5 (3/16") tubing for the uprights with 4 X 2 (1/4" tubing) as a cross beam that sits on the deck.  However, this cross beam will only be about 16" inchs in length.  The cross beams while small will actually connect into a large 6 X 4 wood beam where I will cut a tenon that would be inserted into the 2 X 4 tubing.  I will use 3 X 1.5 tubing as the angle braces and then pin the bottom of the bunk so it cannot pop out.   Overall, the design is similar to what Gary showed but a scaled down version with less bulk steel and the cross beam is some hard Hickory that I have a used.  Everything should be portable enough and I believe the weight should be distributed in such a way as to protect the trailer when the bunks are hit.  I will send pictures as soon as I have something done.  Thoughts?

Ironwood

I drill and tap the center of the pocket from the outside so the "standard" will be capitive and not rattle. I use a 5/8ths" carriage bolt and keep the rounded side out and the use a 11/16th wrench on the backside of the rounded head to tighten. They have worked REALLY well. I also use this to keep my set of stake body sides from rattleing while using them.

Ironwood





 
There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

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