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Author Topic: band blade flatness  (Read 1341 times)

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Offline paul case

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band blade flatness
« on: September 15, 2010, 06:01:21 PM »
is this something that deserves looking at?
i bought some cookssaw blades and i get their magazine. this months issue has 1 article and it is all about blade flatness. that is from gullet to back. do any of you guys/gals have a blade roller from cooks? can you tell it makes a diference?
 the funny thing is the new cookssaw magazine is the first one without the band roller listed for sale in it.   pc
life is too short to be too serious. (some idiot)
2013 LT40SHE25 and Riehl edger,  WM 94 LT40 hd E15. Cut my sawing ''teeth'' on an EZ Boardwalk
sawing oak.hickory,ERC,walnut and almost anything else that shows up.
Don't get phylosophical with me. you will loose me for sure.

Online ladylake

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Re: band blade flatness
« Reply #1 on: September 15, 2010, 06:58:17 PM »
 My 1-1/4" blades cut good untill they die, A roller might help 1-1/2" blades.    Steve
Timberking B20 12000 hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Dino setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Offline sgschwend

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Re: band blade flatness
« Reply #2 on: September 16, 2010, 11:31:14 AM »
From my experience the saws need to be flat.  They are when I purchase them and will stay that way if I use them correctly.  Otherwise in my view I have abused the saw.

My sharpen service will throw away a saw with too much damage which I suppose would include a none flat saw.  So the roller might fix/recover that saw.  But to tell you the truth I knew I sent them a iffy blade because I remember some bone head error I made that messed it up.

I can't speak for other bandmill brands but the one I used will not distort a saw to be out of flatness (assuming it is setup with the proper tension and blade guides adjusted).

Offline backwoods sawyer

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Re: band blade flatness
« Reply #3 on: September 16, 2010, 08:44:08 PM »
When sharpening a 12” wide saw part of the process is to “bench” the saw by taking a straight edge and looking for light that comes under it, these areas are then hammered to flatten the band. You can do the same thing at home with a set of wheels that allow the saw to roll around as you work over a flat steel plate with a good light. I will bench a saw when I wreck a saw and it dose helps. Rolling the saw is less accurate then benching the saw as it just puts even pressure on the saw as it goes around.
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